Russell griffiths

Cut along a straight edge, normally aluminium.

I don’t think they were needed at all, but did it anyway.

Will this create a large shelf that you will need a flashing over. on an eps block I rendered onto the eps with a waterproof render with mesh included, then left the surface very rough. then laid natural stone bedded in exterior slip adhesive and stuck back to the render with the same slip adhesive, stainless screws and stainless brackets bedded in every third course.

Badly designed wall, using incorrect materials I’m afraid. it all needs pulling down, new foundations and a new wall of some description. I would go for something more flexible like sleepers or gabion baskets with a nice stone on the face.

If it’s blockwork nobody cares as it’s normally rendered if brickwork it should be set out correctly at damp course level, and a good architect should have worked the building and openings to brick sizes.

Pictures needed.

The door size wasn’t equal to block sizes so going over the top won’t work to the same bond as the blockwork already laid.

Leave a gap, it allows it to dry out quicker if it was to get wet. mat risinger did a video on this on YouTube, it was found that sealing up every gap kept moisture in rather than letting it in briefly and out quickly.

@Russdl you need a new hobby 🤣

Buy an old shit heap car, put it in your garage wait for neighbour to park there, open garage and proceed to push their car out of the way. simples.

This. looking at lots of localised flooding i would lift the house up, i would not want any surface run off from surrounding land coming down onto my house without a good way of the water running around the house and out the front onto the road.

Don’t use pva. i would hit the concrete with a pressure washer first.

Gaffa tape, don’t overthink this, it’s a hole, block it up, carrier bag and some tape, job done.

I believe you only need 100mm if under a screed in an extension if the insulation in other areas is more than adequate talk to building control and ask them if 100 will do. airtightnes in this floor will be just as important as the insulation levels. you will need to be meticulous with this.

I think you need to change your thoughts on the name of the joint. it’s not an expansion joint, but a movement joint. I was always told that if you have any shape like a tennis racket, so a big square area with a thin corridor coming off it, it will crack at the join between the two. I used a strip of firm foam with gaffa tape both sides, placed in every doorway, situated under where the door will close, so if you have different floor coverings in the different rooms the expansion trims will be hidden under the doors.

Call them back it’s not correct tell them to get a roofer to do it correctly, or you will and invoice them for the job to be put right. they should be hetas registered to carry out a correct flu install.

A 3m post is about £35.

If you don’t want paving you could use the steel decking system and some rustic boards to match/ contrast with the house.

You need 600mm in the ground. Get the trellis made on site, from longer timber so it spans across the top of the posts to make a complete run, not 6 foot sections, that way you can lift it higher than the post tops, keeping the bottom in the post and sailing through with the top two rows of slats. just a thought.

Sounds a hideous idea, you can get reasonable paving for £25 a metre, or if budget is tight prepare the area with type 1 and cover in a gravel of your choice for a year or two until you can afford the paving. or my neighbour has used 200mm wide oak boards 25mm thick for a very rustic deck.

Duster house sell sheds, it’s not what you want. Avoid.

No it’s not right, it’s a quick fix to an awkward situation. if they are a professional company who charged you the correct money to fit this, then they should have employed a roofing company to do it correctly.

@bisquits to get your terminology right, you are looking to screw into RAFTERS these are the timbers that run from the gutter area, to the ridge area, PURLINS are the huge beams that run left to right under the rafters to add additional support to the rafters.

You need a cross section drawing showing what you have and the problems you think it’s going to cause. it’s to hard to try and figure out what’s going on in the pictures.

Only for watering the garden though, not connected back into the house.