Russell griffiths

Sort your insulation and airtightness first, don’t just fit a bigger heat source, or you will be one of the thousands that say they didn’t realise heat pumps cost so much to run.

I would worry that if that’s the quality of the brickwork, then what’s the quality of the insulation fitting and other details. show us the pointed side.

Why didn’t the original developer not put another house on it.

Washing machine hose, fitted to the fitting on the trap under the sink to stop smells coming up.

I always ask myself, why has nobody built on it previously.

If you bought this duct from toolstation then it is completely the wrong thing for using underground, this stuff is what you use for inside the house for protecting cables from chafing. do yourself a favour and stop pursuing the idea of pulling a fibre cable through it. replace it and ask for advice on here in future, DO NOT rely on trades on site giving you the correct advice, you will be amazed at the poor knowledge of a lot of them you will come across.

Do yourself a favour and forget this duct, it’s now useless, get some rigid grey bt duct and use this, it will future proof you for any new installation of fibre, extra bt cables or whatever.

Where have you got any joins that could leak underground, you shouldn’t have any joins untill you hit the first fitting on your vertical timber holding all the gubbins and the tap. out of all the joints I can think you would have on that vertical timber the only one that would have ptfe on would be the tap into the backing plate.

Try linseed oil on the pine, the more coats the darker it should go. im afraid it’s a case of buying 10 different things and trying them until you get a good match. I think on my last count I have over 30 paint test pots at home because the wife thought they were not quite right !!

Pull the conduit forward, splash a load of water and pva mix into the chase to wash out the dust and prime up the dry blocks. get 4-5 large head clout nail, push the conduit back in and use the nails at the side of the conduit to trap it in place, you should be able to nail into the block or joints. slap some bonding into the chase, finishing it 5mm low of the surface, plaster over the bonding.

Where is the trap situated to stop the smells coming up that pipe. if you are thinking of fitting a waterless trap behind that appliance then you need that to look at the diameter of it. I can see a way out of your problem, but I do agree with everyone, it’s a bit farmed up and the pipe should come up in the cupboard next to the appliance. will the back panel on this island be removable. I think you need to answer the bit about the trap first and the possibility of moving the appliance first before we start looking for a method of hacking that pipe into a better position.

Floors are installed by the carpenters that fitted the floor joists, plasterboard is put up by a boarder, or tacker normally priced by the meter, they will fly in and want to smash it out quickly, or ask your plasterers to quote for it, you will probably get a better job as they know they have to plaster it afterwards. the jobs you will struggle with are the details, fitting vapour control layers, sealing and taping windows.

Loads about, solid plastic like the one above or they do a flexible rubber version.

You can buy some expensive shuttering to form the sides of the foundation buy the time you have bought it and payed to fit it you might as well just rip a big wide trench in and fill it with concrete. it’s either 2 grand in shuttering or 2 grand in more concrete. Or stop work and re design everything.

Don’t buy 6m lengths of pipe, they always have a significant bend in them, ok if going in a trench you can pack them straight, but trying to hold them in place in your situation would be a pain.

You should drop your worktop height down 75mm to make it easier to work on. I’ve just dropped ours to approximately 850 for my shorty wife.

The third block you listed is half the size of the others, so you need to buy twice as many, and lay twice as many.

The problem with icf over her is a lot of stuff is cut and pasted from American or Canadian regs. they have earth quakes and other severe weather, we get very few major weather incidents. my structural engineer said to me that you wouldn’t put re bar in a block built wall, so why is it needed in a concrete one with less joins. the only reason I see the need for reinforcement of a basic straight short wall would be if it was holding back a load, like a semi basement, or any roof load pushing outwards onto it.

The only steel in my nudura build was specifically aimed at constructing lintels above openings, none in any of the walls as specified by the SE. I did however put some in 😉

That’s what I thought, nothing going down it apart from water, so 1-80 would work fine.

What’s the 150 pipe for. apart from that I can’t see a problem.

I made 4 of my windows smaller on a nudura build, spray foam eps 100 directly to the reveals. dont overcomplicate this, just continue your airtight strategy over the extended piece of eps, so wider tape or extend the liquid membrane out further. windows will just need longer screws in the straps.

Yes, unless you are in a conservation area, then everything is covered.

If it comes out with a few wacks of a large crowbar then take it out, if after 10 minutes of sweating you can’t move it then leave it there.

75mm diameter at breast height. A cherry tree is certainly not a large shrub.