Russell griffiths

Then your pipes should already be in, apart from the last little bit. You’re not going to have the depth to run a 40mm pipe in a 50mm screed or even an 80mm screed, with the fall.

What pump is that mate, the grundfoss pumps have timers but I’ve been told there a bit poo.

Evening all, I’ve got a hot return circuit in the house feeding 2 en-suite bathrooms and our boot room, I want to run the pump intermittently rather than on 24/7 putting occupancy sensors in isn’t an option as the house is fully boarded, I want to alter the pump timing at the pump end , so either some form of timer, or some sort of intelligent pump that is programmable. any thoughts people. @Nickfromwales you can keep your oar out. 😝😝

If doing it in aluminium it will probably be made in three pieces starting at the bottom and angle going upwards finishing in the corner, then an angle that hat goes up but only 1/4 of the way, then an angle folded cap coming down to cover the last piece going upwards.

Do you want to do this in aluminium, pvc plastic would be loads cheaper, will be easier to find a contractor to fit it, I would only go aluminium if this is a high standard finish you are after, there’s easily a few grands worth of aluminium there once it’s powder coated to the colour you want.

That bottle gulley you have listed is the same as what you have, why are you getting another one.

Pipes travel through insulation layer as well, not just screed.

I boxed off the areas, but didn’t use a tray, screeded the floor to the drain with the correct falls then tiled. you can screed lower then use one of the formers that you tile on top off also.

This will help with stopping your skirting Rockin and rolling about.

What he said ⬆️

Carry on.

My wife has a similar sized office in the garden, it has no ventilation apart from the door leading in, I have never noticed any form of musty smell or dampness in it anywhere. it’s highly insulated in the wall floor and roof, the air gets changed ever time she comes inside to make a cuppa. heating is via a small oil filled rad on a timer that comes on an hour before she starts work, she’s been in it since covid and loves it.

This isn’t a pick on @Caroline post, but you really need to decide what you want this house to be and the best way to achieve it. there have been a flurry of posts on here this year of people with badly insulated houses and extensions, that’s are really not living up to the owners expectations, and they are now having to re do bad workmanship, or live with the fact that they just spent two years building something that is not as good as they had hoped. have a think what you want to achieve and go from there.

Are you saying you have a clear span upstairs of 14m without any internal walls, that’s a big area.

You will need to excavate all that out if you go for a raft or block n beam. you generally strip 3-400 mm of soil from the whole house area to get down to firm sub soil, if going for a raft you will excavate more.

Really, I thought with 75 in a cavity you had to have about 50 internal.

Why do you want to build your own house ? thers thousands out there for sale, if you want to do it because you want something better then don’t even consider getting the developer to build the shell, buy the plot if that’s what you want then go your own way, if you get them to build the shell you might as well just buy a finished one from him.

A strip of nice hardwood against the doorframe between the reveals, gives a bit of an old school look but I like it and it solves lots of issues.

You must have some fairly thick insulated plasterboard on the inside as well, as that 75mm doesn’t come close to building regs.

You need to do some additional work to make this a happy place, build a 4x4 wooden building in front of the main door, use this to keep boots, work clothes in, washing machine and freezer, small woodburner to dry all the work clothes, small deck area and lots of gravel. no mud, I can’t understand the amount of builds I see with them swimming in mud to save £200 on a truck of stone.

I would want the post Crete up high enough to support the gravel boards, it looks ok at the moment but in a years time when all those little bits of timber have rotted the gravel boards will sink down.

Depends if you want to build a good forever home or an average home you will sell in 5 years. if a good one you will be in for a good while i would forget any form of pir boards in the cavity and go back to the drawing board. in laboratory conditions they pass building regs, out on site with a couple of knuckle dragging bricklayers installing them they come out as pretty poor, the figures just happen to add up so everyone advises using it.

No need to angle them,I looked for a trim to go from my vaulted ceilings to the flat area, I did find some, but after asking 3 plasterers to use them they all looked at me like I was insane and said just round the corner off. I didn’t like that answer and went on a plasterers forum, they all said the same, round it off. so we put a tight coat of bonding along that line, then added a fine plaster reinforcement mesh 200mm wide, then another tight smear of bonding over the mesh, all flattened out using a wet brush to feather the edges, the plasterer then skimmed the lot. I haven’t even got a hint of a crack anywhere and I’m glad I didn’t go for the straight line as I think I would always look at it to check it’s straight.

Got to be timber then, insulation in the studs, some on the inside to bring it out to the right dimensions you need.

Why build that wall solid, build it in a cavity to the same spec as the outer walls and continue it up past the roof line. I’ve got two large internal walls that pop up and suddenly become external walls, it was easier to use the same build method all around than swapping to a different build method for just 1.5m of wall poking up.