Russell griffiths

Can you use an EWI on the section of cavity wall coming up against the sloping roof. it would be behind your cladding. if you use one of the aluminium bracket and rail systems for the cladding the Ewi can fit behind the rails.

Tube of cheap silicon from screw fix £5 at the most, he is definitely a lunatic. do you need him anymore you have the slab booked in, mbc frame on top, guaranteed air test of 0.6, what more is he good for apart from costing you more money.

I have a 90mm square steel post with 25mm insulation on the outside then covered in an aluminium flashing to match the windows.

Just a quick idea, is it a big deal to have the bedroom inline with downstairs, but just space the cladding out to get that set out look. you loose your bigger bedroom. that lintel above the corner window is going to be grief, can you live with a corner post, could save you a good few grand.

If the hole is in the correct location on the trimmer then it’s not a problem, you can get reinforcement plates that fix to the side if your worried, or you can make up a reinforcement plate out of 18mm ply, glued and screwed on. you just need to avoid the standard plumber hack of cutting 50mm notches out of every joist 🤦🏻‍♂️ fit an air admittance trap under the basin.

I personally would start from scratch and get it how you want it. pull the floor up, cut the stack off remove all those old bosses and fit a new section of stack with th bosses in the location you want them, get the pipes under the floor, get the tray down flush and have it right. anything else is just compromise.

He’s a lunatic. why not block all your windows up then you wont have that problem either. we all want to build better, but you need to draw a line somewhere. if you are using the MBC double stud wall system and their insulated slab then you are splitting hairs, you will struggle to find a better system that works so well together.

Not Vastern a small local forestry company.

I’m probably going to stain it, most timbers will be too light for what I want to do.

There’s all different stuff, i like the look of some monkey puzzle, but the big stuff I want is cedar, not western red, but either Lebanon or deodar.

Evening all. I want to build a large dining table from a single slab of timber, I went to a sawmill today to have a look at some and found plenty I liked, they had all thing I’m undecided about is what slab from what part of the tree. the trees have been cut and then re stacked up in the same position that they came from the tree, so looking at my excellent diagram would you want a piece from the centre like no 4, or 3, or a slab from the outer parts no 1-2 or 5-6. it’s all about 75mm thick at the moment ready to be surfaced flat on both sides to bring it in to about 60mm finish width.

You normally wrap the pipes in a 15-20mm thick layer of foam held in place with gaffa tape. this is usually to allow a bit of wiggle room around the pipe so it isn’t totally trapped by the concrete, this can help if having to add another joiner to the pipe as the joining collar can go down lower without hitting the concrete. if he’s worried about cold bridging, then he’s getting you to spend £20 to save 50p. Lunatic. !!

does that help, the bottom of the rafter is supported on a timber fixed on the inside as the roof tiles in this instance don’t have any rafter tails on show. if this helps you need to do a mock up to see how you want the rafters to finish and how you want the tiles to sit over the brickwork.

It’s going to be hard to explain you need a rafter fixed into the sips panel like you said, the top end of this rafter will fit flat up against the a ledger board that needs fixing to the side of the c————— sod it I will try to find some pictures.

Not really, that’s all a bit wrong are you after building the timber work to support the roof tiles ? if you are then we need a bit of clarity on what you want to achieve will you have a barge board running up the outside of the brickwork, or will you just over sale the tiles and have a cemented fillet, or dry verge. what roof covering is going on this ? will it have a soffit and facia at the lowest point, or just facia. need a sketch reall on what the final goal will be then I can guide you as to how to frame it up.

How does the energy get through 100mm of brickwork, the cavity on the outside of the insulation is generally cold. still baffled. 😂

You shouldn’t put a sharp 90 underground, either install an inspection chamber just before the connection, or a very slow long radius bend. how exactly are you connecting to the sewer, is it a saddle or are you cutting in and installing a junction. a few photos would help with this. and if the storm drain is deeper than the foul then your current pipe will be to low in the ground, you will need to go backwards up the run of pipe and re lay the pipe to the correct fall.

I think picking the correct mortar and pointing method is as important as the brick choice.

What do you think the aluminium layer will do inside a cavity. i personally can’t see it being of any help at all. if this is a new build i would ask some more questions on here and look at all the options for your insulation.

It depends where this trench is. if it’s across a farmers field or through your land then as John said you can do it. if it runs within 1m of the highway you will need a contractor with a streetworks permit, and use the appropriate traffic control. obviously the more rural you are and the less people there are to upset you do whatever you want, just be aware if you are working within a metre of the highway you need to comply.

Take the brickwork down, not the blocks.

You would need to pay privately, it would probably cause so much bad feeling it would be hard to continue with the rest of the build. unless you have some lads that genuinely want to learn how to do things better.

the problem with doing this is you need to get them to agree that it needs fitting correctly and they are happy to learn it was poor, and want to do it better. you have a chance in a million of this happening, and it’s far more likely they will push back and say it’s fine, at that point you need to work out if you can part company and start again.

I’m afraid you are gaining knowledge after you needed it. stop the work now before you end up with a very expensive building that performs like it was built in 1980.

Have you read up on the bloke on here with the extension that just will not get warm, and looked at all the issues he has. read it and get a good grasp of what is right and wrong. pretty painted walls and nicely fitted architrave doesn’t make a good building.