Russell griffiths

Look at the upstairs windows in your pic. they didn’t really get that right did they. I think your trying to micro manage that detail, if you get the windows to suit the cladding they will probably be off with something indoors, tile placement for example. cladding is so variable you can jiggle it to fit, unless you are using a large format sheet where you definitely don’t want a little rip.

I would not build a home that I’m going to be asleep in a room and not have a window in that room that was capable of being opened enough for the occupants to escape from. every single room in our house has either an escape window or a door to the outside.

Most triple glazed quality windows come pre glazed, I wouldn’t buy anything else.

Fit them yourself, it’s money for old rope, the hardest part is actually lifting them up, another strong mate and your done. i don’t know why people think it’s complicated to fit a few screws in some brackets. the air sealing you will make a better job than the fitters anyway.

Not if it has a restrictor fitted. AFAIA.

You can get them cut to the width you want and edge banded to save loads of time on painting. or look at Todd doors I’ve used their ones different widths for thick walls, can’t remember the sizes but I have 125studs with 11mm osb both sides and 15mm plasterboard.

It doesn’t sound excessive. but do get another quote

No, that’s a bodge, don’t do it, run the pipe at the angle so it connects up properly. having the pipe run steeper than 1:40 is not a problem, it will not leave the solids behind, that is a misconception.

how big do you want to go.

You would need to state that you are geared towards planning applications and have a proven track record. i would not particularly use an architect for planning, but lean towards a planning consultant.

Get a stand at the self build shows, there’s a fair bit of competition though.

Being that you are in bare icf, just hack the foam off and move the vents up, it will all be behind your brick slips, you will also be able to get them to line up perfectly with a full brick that way. winner winner chicken dinner.

i have an area that was going to be 150 down, I now like the idea of bringing it up level with the back door, so 4 vents are low, I’m installing these in my paving area.

What difference is it making, they are a bit high, are you thinking the area of level access will cover them, I purposely left ours out in the area of the disabled ramp. yours are probably better high if you are talking about patio area, as you don’t want them underground.

All my planning drawings state FFH at 88.75 which when referenced to the TOPO shows exactly where it should be. you then take a fixed point from the TOPO like a manhole cover, for arguments sake, manhole at 87.75, so FFH 1m above that manhole, give or take a little bit, you generally bang a stake in well out the way and transfer all the crucial measurements to it, so you can then rip the site up and it doesn’t matter if the manhole gets disturbed.

Do you understand that if it’s not your principle residence then you can’t claim the vat back, you might also pick up an infrastructure levy from your council, not sure on that one due to the size. Why split the land, could you build it as an attached annex. is 37m large enough for the legal size of a 1 bed dwelling.

And FFH should be defined on your TOPO survey. &nbsp

Have you considered an extractor in a drop down ceiling now I’ve seen those other diagrams, isn’t it a simple job of getting the drawers made with a reduced depth.

I get asked this a lot, as mines been going on for 6 years. but just look at the people asking, got nothing do nothing achieved nothing.

Time to teach the wife to drive on the driveway, not off over the edge of it 🤣🤣

Can you not just put a void between the two sets of cupboards, pack it out with some timber. you would need larger end panels obviously. have you included the service void that is behind your cabinets in your measurements. @torre snap.

Why would you need to change to render. insulate between the studs, then over the face of them on the outside with some form of wood fibre insulation, then a batten and then re cladding. I’ve obviously missed out lots of steps like membranes, but all different systems have membranes in different locations, so there’s no point going into detail, until you start really looking into what you want to achieve.

You really don’t want to buy this through a merchants, go to an online insulation supplier, or sig if you merchant is limited to what they can get, shop elsewhere, I have 3 accounts with local merchants and buy hardly anything from them, insulation superstore or equivalent. definitely ditch the silver blanket.

Pictures and a drawing needed really. kingspan or pir would be the last thing I would use, hard to fit well, expensive i would make the frame deeper and use a rigid rockwool batt of some sort. are you removing the plasterboard.

Well I’ll be buggered, I was told a couple of years ago that I needed paperwork of some sort to show before it could be purchased.