Russell griffiths

If this is a section below finished floor level you shouldn’t need any form of waterproofing as it’s all below dpc, using real flint will stick you out 100 mm plus from the icf, you will need some serious counter batten and batten to get the cladding to overhang. using a fake stone will give you a more consistent depth and thinner profile. have you considered rendering this bit, it could save a few grand in the build process. I can see the attraction of the flint if you are doing a wall of it, but just the splash zone at ground level seems an expensive method for a strip at ground level. depending on what icf you use you will not pull the eps off the concrete, it should be very secure, nudura you actually need to destroy it to get it off. I would waterproof render onto the icf, reinforcement mesh, rough up the render, then fix the stone/ flint with slip bond adhesive, pointing as you go.

The cavity is clear if you use surecav, you can go lower width cavity if you use a proper barrier 50mm is fairly standard to allow for inaccurate building practices and materials. ensure you keep the bottom of the cavity clean, you will need to exercise old fashioned good practices to keep the cavity clean at the bottom.

Yep 100mm and 8mm render and 1.6mm top coat. haven't seen anybody lay 75mm blocks for a long time. how bigs the cavity, if you use surecav can you tighten up the cavity a bit.

What do you want it for ? i cannot think of a use for it apart from rendering.

If the ufh manifold is in there, then the pipes will need to travel across this floor to get to the manifold, just add a couple of extra metres to one loop and wiggle it across the bits not already covered.

I thought you mentioned 300mm high, if so you going to push your stone out from the icf by loads if you use surecav, sounds very OTT for just a strip at ground level and below finished floor height, surecav is predominantly used on timberframe.

Planning will only get involved if you actually tell them.

Cut along a straight edge, normally aluminium.

I don’t think they were needed at all, but did it anyway.

Will this create a large shelf that you will need a flashing over. on an eps block I rendered onto the eps with a waterproof render with mesh included, then left the surface very rough. then laid natural stone bedded in exterior slip adhesive and stuck back to the render with the same slip adhesive, stainless screws and stainless brackets bedded in every third course.

Badly designed wall, using incorrect materials I’m afraid. it all needs pulling down, new foundations and a new wall of some description. I would go for something more flexible like sleepers or gabion baskets with a nice stone on the face.

If it’s blockwork nobody cares as it’s normally rendered if brickwork it should be set out correctly at damp course level, and a good architect should have worked the building and openings to brick sizes.

Pictures needed.

The door size wasn’t equal to block sizes so going over the top won’t work to the same bond as the blockwork already laid.

Leave a gap, it allows it to dry out quicker if it was to get wet. mat risinger did a video on this on YouTube, it was found that sealing up every gap kept moisture in rather than letting it in briefly and out quickly.

@Russdl you need a new hobby 🤣

Buy an old shit heap car, put it in your garage wait for neighbour to park there, open garage and proceed to push their car out of the way. simples.

This. looking at lots of localised flooding i would lift the house up, i would not want any surface run off from surrounding land coming down onto my house without a good way of the water running around the house and out the front onto the road.

Don’t use pva. i would hit the concrete with a pressure washer first.

Gaffa tape, don’t overthink this, it’s a hole, block it up, carrier bag and some tape, job done.

I believe you only need 100mm if under a screed in an extension if the insulation in other areas is more than adequate talk to building control and ask them if 100 will do. airtightnes in this floor will be just as important as the insulation levels. you will need to be meticulous with this.

I think you need to change your thoughts on the name of the joint. it’s not an expansion joint, but a movement joint. I was always told that if you have any shape like a tennis racket, so a big square area with a thin corridor coming off it, it will crack at the join between the two. I used a strip of firm foam with gaffa tape both sides, placed in every doorway, situated under where the door will close, so if you have different floor coverings in the different rooms the expansion trims will be hidden under the doors.

Call them back it’s not correct tell them to get a roofer to do it correctly, or you will and invoice them for the job to be put right. they should be hetas registered to carry out a correct flu install.

A 3m post is about £35.

If you don’t want paving you could use the steel decking system and some rustic boards to match/ contrast with the house.