Russell griffiths

like this.

I think you would be surprised how knocked about they get on a building site, it would need to be very damaged to not be usable. Picture. Try not to cut them as it’s a ball ache.

Have your floor beams been designed to accommodate the pipes coming up, may be better to get the beams in and manipulate pipe accordingly.

Whereabouts are you I’m in Cirencester, there are a few of us on here all local to me.

So if your floor is not fitted yet, why not move the pipe into the correct position ?‍♂️

You need to compare apples with apples im having window quotes at the moment. £15,000 cheapest, £30,000 dearest. They are definitely not the same quality, you can get anything cheaper if you look around but it will definitely not be the same standard.

Have you watched the grand design programme when they where trying to restore an old castle, when OH DEAR IT JUST FELL DOWN.

Do you need that membrane with your wall build up??? Why not just have shadow gap cladding? I thought that membrane was for timberframe and is used because it’s UV safe and won’t be effected by the light getting through the gaps.

Things like gutter will fit to facia board, cctv can go under the soffit, I have thought of fitting 250mm squares of compac foam cut flush into the surface to fit any other things in random positions. I think it’s a case of careful planning.

Has anybody got any opinions on the above, they both look and feel very nice, but would like some real world opinions from anybody who has them or looked at them. Cheers.

So went to the rationel showroom closest to me to find out they don’t actually do a lift n slide door in the size we want and that the quote we have had is actually for another make. Has anybody fitted rationel windows with a different door ???

Whys that, stays perfectly white, hard wearing. What don’t you like ?

Won’t you have the inside sprayed white by the window company ? then you won’t have to paint them for many many years then you just use an acrylic eggshell.

Absolutely horrible, they are on show at the Swindon self build centre, I have been twice in the last month to just look at windows. Dismissed them straight away. Went to rationel on Friday, very nice for the budget, middle of the road price range.

You should really have a tray, or cill pan below all windows and doors IMHO but I think there are better materials than lead, unless he wants you to weld all the corners you will get water penetration at the corners. You can buy specific tapes that stretch for forming the corners with no cutting, so no weak junction areas. You can also get a liquid flashing, this is what I will be using. Go to you tube to look for some horror stories of badly fitted windows.

What are you having as a facia, as it’s a bit of a vicious circle, plastic gutter will look like plastic, but putting metal gutter on plastic facia may look odd. I personaly hate plastic. Have just got a load from gutter crest, will see what it looks like on Wednesday if it turns up.

Won’t have any effect, make it any shape you want. How will you fit a square airbrick in a round hole ??

Not if the resale price is good, how long do you want it ?

It’s because you have a cold bridge between outside and inside window reveals are notorious for this as the actual cross section between cold and watrm is so thin.

I wanted to avoid GRP if I could, I did my old kitchen roof in it and it worked brilliantly and is very robust, however it is very weather dependent and also time restricted, I was running about like a blue arse fly keeping it all together at the same time. So so looking for a product that is not so finicky.

Damp penetrating from the outside via the reveal, probably a solid wall.

Can anybody recommend a liquid applied roofing membrane, the type that you add a mesh or a matting to for strength. I would like something that you sort of roller apply, then lay matting to and then roller again. This is for a porch roof with very minimal fall, outside the house so cold roof, substrate either ply or osb. Cheers russ.

Batten, cement board and render is certainly a way to do it, but I wouldn’t want it. Cavity, concrete blocks, render has anybody done a price comparison?? those cement boards are not cheap, then the fixings are not cheap, then the bagged render is not cheap concrete blocks are not that expensive to have laid and is a far more robust detail IMHO.

If he has strip foundations, he won’t need a raft. There could be some confusion here with terminology.

How can you use the icf walls to retain the slab ?? what are the icf blocks sitting on??