Russell griffiths

If you cut an off cut of pipe neatly, then cut a slot in it you can use this as a template to mark a neat line all around it. Not it sure that makes sense, cut a piece of pipe 100mm long, then split it with a cut up its length so it is springy, you can then spread it and slide it over your other pipe and use it as a template, hope that makes sense. Or or else do as Declan said and use a 1mm disc in the grinder.

Use a fine tooth saw used for cutting laminate flooring, very sharp and fine, then use the pipe end bevelling tool to smooth end, look up my topic on it, or use a flap disc in an angle grinder.

I have tried to avoid answering this, but I cannot help myself, sorry, have you looked at any reviews for that gun?

do You mean electric or cordless

Bugger me, nothing like over complicating something, I thought you are going to be building an extension, just buy a few more bags and keep what’s left over for the extension. There no more thinking needed, get out there and get it done.

They don’t really carry a lot of load, if the plumb cut is correct the load pushing down tightens the plumb cut against the ridge, they just keep it all in place, if you think back 10 years all that was used would have been a couple of 4inch nails.

@Patrick sarcastic head on. You had a go at cutting a tree down ?? look how that ended !!! sarcastic head off, your piling contractor will want a PIN in the ground on every pile location. You will need to set out the very rough area of your house, let’s say it takes you 2-3 hours. You then clear the site. Then you will need to set up some profiles detailing wall locations let’s say another 3 hours. Then you will need to mark out pile locations, I believe you have 30 of these, let’s say another 2 hours. I am very much into people getting stuck in. But you need to weigh up a few things, how long is it going to take to build this? Are you paying rent or a mortgage? Do you have a mortgage on your plot, all these things will have an impact on cost versus time. You could dig your own clay and make your own bricks, Er no don’t be ridiculous. When I was starting to think about mine I actually considered buying a concrete mixing truck and driving to the concrete plant and mixing it all myself, I even thought about buying a concrete pump. i soon decided this was a step too far.

They came as a package from the i joist company webbs timber in Gloucester it May have been they where cheaper as I had £7000 of timber from them. Never priced them separately

Why is he concerned on the number of penetrations, what is the problem with more ? i have 4 toilets, 1 kitchen 1 boot room all 110mm pipes coming up then 60mm ducts for water main, electric in,electric out,comms in, so 10 penetrations up through our beam and block floor whats the problem?

I have mentioned this before so I probably sound like a broken record, my surveyor came to site 3 times to set out and it cost under £400 no brainier not worth spending your time on it.

We used these nothing like the price you mention. Made by CULLEN bend to match angle and fit any width timber, I think they where about a couple of quid each. I fitted over 70 and didn’t find any problems.

A few things you could do to remove some agro employ a structural engineer to design it employ a surveyor to set out the slab and all pipe penetrations you will need another man, not wife, to help you move all the steel and tie it up if you put a few of these things in place it should be straight forward, if you try to do everything yourself you might feel a bit overwhelmed

@Conor can you tell me who you are getting your self compacting concrete from, I’m looking at doing my floor slab in it in stead of liquid screed.

Any reason you need all these measurements @Patrick I just sent the dwg to the surveying co who came to site to set it out, they came to site 3 times and the bill was under £400 inc vat, it’s a no brainier really as their accuracy is just spot on.

Why not put the pipe in the same time as the conduit, the cost is pennies and it will save any hassle later, the conduit is only there for emergency replacement and will probably never be used as the life expectancy of mdpe is huge.

Have you not thought about an insulated slab. @howplum

Nope, the thing circled is a 12mm anchor stud, with an additional nut on the bottom instead of the J. in this pic you can see a flat strap on top of the pole plate, this is 40mm wide by 1.5mm thick it is embedded into the concrete core, I think you will only need this on a mono pitch with no ceiling rafters like mine as it is there to prevent spread.

I think you are over thinking this, what the bloody hell are you Going to do to create that much water?

Do you have any pictures? can the outside get 100mm bigger?

What did you use to the wall plate for the roof rafters, J anchor bolts? not really sure what you mean by this @Vijay

Pole plate for roof rafters. The metal straps sticking out are restraint straps, embedded into concrete core. Wall plate for roof rafters.

For roof hold down 12mm spaced at 1200mm for first floor pole plate 16mm spaced either side of hangers, very over kill but they don’t cost a lot. First floor.

It’s the pricing that is confusing me, had a quote from rationel that is higher than two quotes from far better quality window companies, you cannot really put them in the same league at all, yet rationel is the dearest.

When wallpapering my dad would always write. I HATE THIS BLOODY JOB then paper over it.

Can you not use a dumper, there cannot be a lot in each pile cap.