Russell griffiths

TBH nothing is secure against professional thieves, it’s the chancers you need to keep out, if you put a container on your site it is like a magnet for thieves, only leave stuff in it you can afford to lose. I have seen one opened up like a sardine tin with no power tools used, just two pairs of adjustable spanner’s used like a can opener.

I wouldn’t consider a shipping container a secure place for tools, obviously this is site dependent, but having seen them broken into many times I would only consider them good for keeping out your average chancer.

If you take down the centre wall, why would you have UFH in the new bit but not in the old bit, surely you need to make these two floors combined and have the UFH in both areas. If you don’t combine the two floors you might as well chuck a radiator on the wall What is the floor made of in the kitchen now? Why not extend that across the new bit so you have the same finish throughout.

Do you have a picture of the drain with the lid off, it could be more involved than you think to move it, depends what is connecting to it. Why not not bring your front wall over to meet the new wall, and remove the old side wall of your kitchen and make it all one room. What sort of budget do you have.

You will pay a fair premium to get it cut, if you are doing most of this slab yourself you will be better of going and getting a big grinder.

Nope, it won’t be time consuming at all if you use the proper kit, 9inch grinder will get through it in seconds, or a petrol cut off saw will do it even quicker

Why can you not fix it.

I spend a lot of time on it getting distracted by girls with not a lot on.

I will take it of your hands for a tenner.

I would just bight the bullet and buy one of those Bosch drill bits.

Can you not just move the hole ??

If your happy doing all that yourself, I don’t think you need to ask much. Crack on bud just out of interest what is the high load area holding up.

Ok I will chuck this in, why are they not connected to the slab ? why not dig out the shape, line it with the insulation board as shuttering and pour at the same time as the slab.

No 4 cannot lay flat like that, no strength in it flat, needs to be stood up and beams cantilevered over the top of it.

Go and get one of the new style sds drill bits that go through re bar. On another note if you hit re bar can you not just move the hole 150 mm away, surely you haven’t got any closer than 400 centres.

I have two holiday cabins and they both have their own treatment systems. Is there a reason to go that distance I can see it being a pain. Materials to connect it will be in excess of £800, that’s without digging the trench. You can pick up a small plant for a £1000. Is there a 3m height difference between the cabin and treatment plant. I have just installed 260m of fence and I’m visualising how long your pipe run will be.

Don’t do it, if you cut one it will stand out like dogs balls. Why can you not just carry on as you are.

Just depends where you are on the pour, if you are nearly finished you stay by the cage and top it up a bit at a time, if you have loads to do just leave him poking and move along, it’s easy to come back and give it a quick squirt to top it off.

Ha ha £600, yea that’s per week after the first month, scaffolding is the dearest thing to hire next to a crane, at least with a crane you can see £500,000 sitting in your driveway

Didn’t see any point, after it falls 2.7m vertically it doesn’t need any more vibrating. You will need to vibrate your cages VIGOROUSLY or you just won’t fill them up, this is a two man job one on the hose and one vibrating as fast as he can or you get concrete piling up and not falling through the re bar.

We hardly used the vibrator on the second pour, just lots around the cages.

Total construction supplies, mention me, it’s my footings on their website

Bearing in mind that at the corners you will need to bend a 90 degree to go around the corner or buy pre formed corners, tie it all together and it will become fairly rigid.

Piece of roof batten cut to a short length spanning across formwork, with steel hanging from it using steel tying wire, that is standard. But you could cut some short bits of steel and have it braced up from the bottom bit. Many ways to skin a cat.

bracing is very good, but it’s not made like a formula one car so it has a bit of rattling in it that you cannot eliminate until it’s full of concrete.