Russell griffiths

Nudura.

Get ya hand in there you softy.

You have two capped off sections there, have you not opened them up for a bit of turd watching.

I think there are a few on here that have converted postal buildings one way is to use icf and enclose the steal beams within the concrete core of the blocks.

Poor old @Conor comes on for a price on brickwork costs and all of a sudden we are trying to reinvent the wheel @scottishjohn

I would excavate all the top soil down to a solid base then dig a shallow trench around the perimeter then add 150mm of type 1 on the flat bit,whacker plate solid. This way when you pour your slab you will have a thicker section around the outside. Use a heavy grade mesh not the thin stuff 150mm concrete through the middle 300 around the outside. Peter beat me to it.

Good lord, who makes these prices up.

There is a company near me advertising this, without insulation under that slab you might as well cut your money up and throw it out of the window.

What sort of money did they want for 8x4 @willbish

I haven’t used it but I did look into using it for a few things, the one reason I decided against it is that if only available in 2.4 long you will have joins everywhere. i would visit a local sawmill and look for something like Douglas fir or larch, try to avoid speed grown white wood and a clear preservative on it before painting. Should last years.

Core drill will be fine, I take it those old vents will be blocked off.

Go and look at them on site, pick it up, shake it about it was glaringly obvious to me what ones I wanted to avoid, I then poked and prodded the ones left and narrowed it down. I have picked all my materials so far like this and haven’t fitted anything yet I don’t like. I decided to spend good money on structure and if I end up not being able to afford the heated toilet seat then so be it, i don’t think such an important component should be skimped on.

Type 1 and a whacker plate.

I went beam and block because of bad ground, I did want a slab, now the house is up to roof level I’m very happy I went beam and block as it has allowed me to move pipes and services about as I have got used to the shape of the house. I have moved the water main to a completely different room i have swapped the location of a toilet in our en-suite i Will add another duct to take an incoming electric supply from a remote located solar plant that might be added later 3 things I wouldn’t have been able to do easily if I had a slab

Bricklaying (overhand) so stood on the inside of the wall is a pain, you will need a conscientious bloke to do it nicely and it will take a bit longer. If you are going brick I would definitely ask the neighbour if you can erect scaffolding in their garden.

That’s not as bad as it would seam. its a day course and covers lots on insurance and the things you are not allowed to do like the electrics, it basically points you in the right direction before you start your build.

Here’s an idea there’s s house in Cirencester that has loads of odd jobs that need doing, you could come and practice on it. No college fees. Free tea and biscuits staff a bit grumpy

If you need to build in this location can you not design out the hard bits and design in a way to construct it without going next door very much. So a timberframe kit, pre covered in the appropriate membrane then clad with a fireproof outer cladding cladding installed on site and panels lifted into position you then only need to go next door to fit corner trims gable barge boards can be fixed overhand from on the roof. Not somthing i would like to do much but would save on scaffolding. Is there a reason to build up to the boundary, it’s something I did a fair bit of in London and I would really avoid it if possible.

Two ideas, 1,you will need to countersink those tubes into the ply or you will have a little hump in your roof covering, so why not countersink a little extra and fill flush with a bituminised thick paint type of stuff. 2, why not use the insulation with ply glued to it purposely for roofing. Kingspan also do an insulation board especially made for torch on felt. No ply needed.

I sort of agree with the ward member, the new design doesn’t have much wow factor compared with the old house thinking back to when the old one was built it was probably very grand and drew plenty of admiration, whereas the new one looks a bit lacking. I can see from the drawings it could be the way it has been produced, so maybe some new drawings with a different printing process. Apart from increased footprint I cannot see a reason for refusal. Regarding increase in size, have you looked at how big you could make the current house under permitted development ? we did this, we stated that our current place could be increased massively, to be nearly as big as the proposed one, after we bought this to the planners attention it passed.

Very impressed with my aluminium, powder coated stuff, extremely well made and fits the look of the house well.

I have recently bought a. Milwaukee Stud tape measure. Best tape I’ve ever used, all metric, large numbers ( important for you old people) can be read from both directions, i will look for a wooden one, I think I was given a couple by the Siga rep.

I’m a bit disappointed I cannot have my life over again as I believe the amount your average bloke in the street can do is getting less and less each year, I firmly believe the multi skilled man will be able to change whatever they want to do the simplest of tasks, as your average bod is incapable of changing a plug.

As with everything it depends on your actual spec you want. i have seen some very poor skimming jobs and terrible boarding, yet have seen some fantastic tape and jointing. If you specify a top notch then taping and jointing will look and last equally to skimming.