Doodlehime

After some digging the answer for those interested is that they are the same product.

Would anyone know if Knauf Eko Roll sold in B&Q is the same as Knauf Loft roll 44. They seam to have the same thermal conductivity/R value and cover the same m2. There is quite a difference in price however so wondering what would be best to for using in a loft. Knauf Eko Roll Loft insulation roll @ £19 per roll Knauf Eko Roll Loft insulation roll, (L)7.28m (W)1.14m (T)100mm | DIY at B&Q 100MM LOFT ROLL 44 LOFT INSULATION @ £32.22 per roll 100mm Loft Roll 44 Loft Insulation SL 8.30m2 Pack (beesleyandfildes.co.uk) I have noticed Wicks have their own range of Knauf too which is even cheaper: Knauf 100mm Space Bottom Layer Loft Roll Insulation @ 12 per roll Knauf 100mm Space Bottom Layer Loft Roll Insulation - 8.3m2 | Wickes.co.uk

Joiner came and to check over. Agreed that its not doing anything. If really wanted to brace further up (I’ll attach pictures later for anyone interested). New hangers in so finally I can think about putting a proper hatch, ladder and lots of insulation in. thanks for advice.

There is only one and its got no tension on it at all. Joiner friend of my father in law looked at it today, suggested placing them higher up out the way if needs be and taking this one out the way.

Hi looking to make some storage space in my loft but maintain the correct level of insulation. We will probably build a bit of a floating floor but either way this timber is in the way. Its crudely nailed in place. Is shakey as anything and at some point looks like its been cut and patched up again. My question is what is it and does it need to be there? Was it there to hold the perlins in place while the roof was constructed but could now be removed? Would it still be advisable to secure the same trusses further up near the ridge line. thanks IMG_7267.MOV

We want to install EWI on our house. The soffits are due to be replaced this week as part of a new roof. Next door has had EWI replaces already as part of a gov scheme and I noticed rockwool has been placed in the soffits. the EWI would when retrofitted come below the soffits but I assume this would leave a thermal bridge band of around 6-9 inches around the top of the wall in the affected external walls. Would it be advisable to use rockwool or PIR behind the soffits now before they are finished?

Ok great thank you. I am sure the builder said to use 4x1 which just seams overkill to me but wanted to make sure.

The centres aren't even. The house is ex-council built in the 50s so the standard isnt great. What size would you recommend?

The job I have been putting off! Dropped all the old lath ceilings in our house reno last year. Nows the time to think about putting them back up. Problem is the floor and ceiling joists are all over the place. A builder recomended battening the ceiling perpendicular to the joists and packing them out to get them level but I am not sure what size of batten to use and if rough sawn would be acceptable. Would be looking at 12.5mm plasterboard at a minimum. Any advice much appreciated.

Perfect thank you. I will check it out

Wanting to design UFH for an ASHP system. Would anyone know of a program I can load architects PDF design into to sketch and accurately measure UFH loops in? Cheers.

I have looked at those yes but i think quite expensive also the skirting was metal if i remember and i just didn't like the sound of what is essentially hollow trunking around every room.

Looking at feasibility for spreader plates fixed to the underneath of 22mm floor boards in upstairs bedrooms and bathroom (tiles and laminate to go above). ASHP as heating supply. 100mm PIR under the spreader plates held in with batten. Wondered if anyone had done a similar thing and what their experience was like?

Good point.

? Im sure my father in law who is helping me would love to do it. In all honesty we dont have the time or budget to dig up the whole down stairs. Also as these wont be living areas I think it would be over kill for our ex council house. One existing concrete floor does need to come up because I believe it has suffered from sulphate attack. Also the DPM which was bitumen poured on top has been breached and the floor is seriously bad. From what I can see the solid floors in the unshaded areas are all good. If people think UFH is not an option in these areas I will us rads and hide the pipework in the new stud walls.