Russell griffiths

I would hire a tile bumper what is in your agreement with the roofer maybe he should hire a tile bumper if I was paying him by the day I would hire it if you have a fixed price he should hire it.

I have the bitumen coated corrugated sheets from wickes and have found that they have sagged very badly when not fully supported, I have them on rafters at 600 centres and the dip in the middle is very bad.

So if you don’t need a self closer, what is the point of them being a fire door. ?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️

Would you post it.

So does that mean they have to have self closers.

Any reason it needs to be fire rated.

1. Reasonable 2. No chance. 25-50 if they can be bothered. It will be better if the lads laying the concrete are also laying the blocks. 3. Should be spot on if you use a surveyor, bricky and a tape, could be anywhere I have seen a wall built completely on the wrong side of a line, so 100 mm out of place, check it before proceeding. 4. Are you talking below dpc or face work. 5. As above 6. I’ve actually seen pipes the wrong side of a wall so toilet pipe in the room next door. My answers are based on 30 years of working in the real world not downloading the latest government guidelines. I would do two things in your case 1. forget your an engineer, it’s a house not a spaceship 2. Get all critical points marked on a set of plans including pipe locations, then get a surveyor to mark these out as the job proceeds, choose the most local company to your site so a visit to site can be done in under an hour, I had 4 site visits for setting out and the bill was about £370. You are looking at some points with to much detail but have not listed things that in my opinion are far more important. Footing level is not not important at all, a bricky can cope with 50mm out of level and in 3-4 courses of blocks underground he will correct it no problem. However you have no mention of floor level, this is a far more critical point, there are many on here that have been dissatisfied with the finishing on a floor with many bags of levelling compound needed. Also door threshold levels, these are crucial to getting a seamless finish. I would relax a bit on tolerance until you get up to dpc get it set out correctly and triple check it. A simple thing but something people may not be aware of, your architectural drawings come in layers that are drawn on at stages as the architect designs the house. For a couple of extra quid you can get the layers removed to give you simplified drawings So you can get all layers removed to just give you a foundation layout then one that just shows corners for blockwork, which can incorporate pipe locations

Do you need to put this pipe in now. How about compacting 200mm layer with your feet and then just leave it alone, I find I do lots of land remodelling around my place and leaving a few days for the weather to dry/ wet, settled the area naturally ready for me to then stamp it down again before adding another layer. Think about it, just back fill for an hour and go and get on with another chore and come back in the morning to do a little dance on it, do a bit every day for two weeks and it should firm up very well. No whacker needed.

On a serious note you can hire a reversible whacker vibrate one way then flick the switch and vibrate back the other.

If you need any more boulders you can have this bugger, made the ol digger puff a bit.

This is so easy hire a whacker from shop A, start at top and when you get to the bottom phone up and off hire it, when the bod turns up to collect it just point at the bottom of the hill and say there you go chummy. Repeat until all local hire shops have refused to serve you. Easy peasy.

What sort of money.

Sorry picture looks deceiving it looks like the centre is very thick 100mm in centre 150-200-250 whatever you want around the outside tie it all together with some good mesh over the whole lot, support mesh on chairs 50mm off of insulation. Try to get a mix on site service instead of mixing yourself, better mix and more consistent. Regarding your walls, would you not be better off with 125- 140 studs fully filled with sound slab, then double board with plasterboard will this save you some internal space. Your biggest sound/ heat loss will be the windows and doors.

TBF that looks very good, I was expecting to see a right old mess from your description i don’t think there is anything wrong with that at all. I would leave the edges as is and increase the insulation in the centre add insulation until you end up with a 100mm thick slab in the centre, leave a nice thick edge. What you spend on insulation you will save on concrete get a nice thick sheet of mesh in there and just carry on as you are. Carry on bud ??

I was also concerned with the slope and thought exactly the same

Is that the trade name, I will look them up, do they do different angles or does one angle fit all.

I would remove the insulation, without it forming a fully insulated slab it will do nothing to help heat loss i would get a concrete slab down and then build your building and then insulation on top of your concrete and put a floating timber floor on top of that. Pictures would help, don’t worry we won’t bite, much.

I don’t know of the product you have mentioned, but I used a product that was a metal strip bent to the angle you wanted with paper fixed to it. You applied it just like normal corner tape. I think I had 45 degrees and 22.5.

I didn’t mean use your internal flooring outside im sure there are not many wooden floors you can buy that can be used externally. it Would need to be solid timber for outdoor use.

I prefer chem fix resin and a threaded stud, that way if the brickwork is a bit suspect or your drill opens up the hole a bit big the resin always fills up the hole. Spacing would depend on the load it is taking, is it just for storage.

I don’t know how much room you have, but I have a concrete inspection chamber 600x 450 with all my bits in, I like that I can lift the lid and actually get both arms in with spanner’s if I ever need to change a tap or non return valve. It has a normal metal lid just like a manhole cover.

I would, you used to when you closed the cavity with a block, but now most of it has changed to plastic cavity closers i think any chance of moisture bridging should be avoided.

I think you have got the answer, nothing too complicated you just need to get your levels right the hardest thing will be getting good decking to match your floor, that photo looks like hardwood, expect to pay big dollars for that.

Yee haa love it mate, your not in hazzard county are you. @Roger440 check this out bud.

Just concerned with the trench bottom settling and ending up with a dip in the pipe, I know it’s flowing down hill so it’s never going to sit there.