Russell griffiths

Cut an off cut off plasterboard 12.5mm chuck it on the floor, stand board on that to give you 12.5 mm gap, bingo job done. Normal plasterboard on upstairs walls, not sound block.

Look out for a RADIAL ARM SAW loads on e bay. I take it this is to cut your i joists. Big bit of kit, you will need to make a long table to sit it on and bring every i joist to the saw, it is sometimes easier to take the saw to the timber, just make a jig for multiple cuts and use a circular saw.

We had a water easement in our house in oz, it was basically a shallow ditch that took all the rainwater from the houses up the hill, in the dry months it was empty, in rainy season it flowed like a goodun i scraped it out to form a shallow ditch and lined it with big 600mm rocks and smaller 300mm rocks with round pebbles in the gaps, it was a bloody masterpiece, I used to go out in the storms and move the rocks around to adjust the flow and create little catchment areas. I think it really depends on the amount of water you are talking about.

What has your structural engineer said? I wanted a slab but had to go block n beam it is very diy friendly, I would say more so than slab as you do each individual job at a time, with a slab you have to get 3-4 jobs all correct before you pour that concrete, and that job is certainly not a diy job, you will need lots of help with that bit. Im upset I didn’t do a slab, but it just was so much more trouble with my site. however im glad I didn’t do a slab as I have just changed the position of a bathroom which was easy by lifting some blocks and re positioning a pipe, practically impossible with a slab.

How long a run? used to a lot in thermalites but don’t see it practised as much in aglights used to be about every 6m but I’m very out of touch with today’s chuck it up methods.

We have a piled foundation and I used a surveyor to set out it cost £350-400ish i would not recommend trying to do it, the accuracy they achieved was spot on. First visit 20 wooden pegs in the ground, very rough accuracy 250mm big in every direction so I could lower the level 1000mm second visit pile layout, 29 metal pins knocked in, accuracy to the mm in every direction. Then the piles went in and I built the ringbeam third visit wall set out to the mm i chose the company most local to my site to save travel costs.

But twice as heavy.

Try claiming against it.

There is a used cheap staircase on e bay that has been used as temporary stairs on a build, it’s going for £100 so you can sell it after and recover nearly half your money.

You pay for it, digger for a morning, £50 pipe £50 concrete, back fill it and then sleep soundly that you can bring whatever you want to your land with no problems. Easy insurance. Or dig down to within 150mm of it, lay 100mm concrete on top 600 wide, Chuck some heave reinforcement mesh in, cover with another 100mm concrete and back fill.

Keep you out of mischief for a while.

I don’t think there are many, infact it might only be one company I know who will do your groundwork as well as frame package. MBC in Gloucestershire.

There you go @nod next project

If that was mine I would get the local bloke with his tractor flail, we pay £42 per hour and that shouldn’t take more than an hour.

F##k me never going to live that down am I.

Why would you do all that work and still keep a cold tank in the loft?? if you are trying to achieve that level of insulation why will you still have a small cupboard, rip the lot out, all internal walls, it will be easier to work on and you will end up with what you want instead of a compromise.

Evening all. So we understand that pvc electrical cable should not come into contact with EPS insulation as it effects the plasticity of the cable which can lead to the cable sheathing failing. So does this happen with pvc drainage pipe?? i will be using EPS insulation in my floor under my screed and a couple of shower pipes will need to be chased into the top layer of EPS, I’m concerned that the EPS could make the pipes brittle and wondering about either changing the insulation in those areas or coating the channel I cut with something and then installing the pipe in that. Maybe as simple as some large pipe lagging. ?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️

What do you mean a single aerated block, is this a house or an extension you cannot build a single skin of block work it won’t have enough strength in it. You can lay them flat at 220 wide, but that is then very heavy the problem is fixings everything will get very expensive if you need a fixing to go through a 25mm batten then 100mm of insulation have you looked at icf blocks. I don’t think you can expect a timberframe co to do much design without a bit of commitment from you.

Just glue a patch on it. As long as it’s the top and not the bottom.

If anybody can break something it’s me

Mine is very similar looking, it works better when it is warm, I normally give it a good work out for 15 minutes and it then plays a lot better. I think mine has some sort of oil in it. Or grease that thins out so it gets better.

Why not use an insulated duct.

I would cut into slabs now, but cut thicker than you need by at least 25% then when seasoned, use a slab master to flatten them back off, you will get a lot of curling you can make a slabmaster using a router and building a sled that you move up and down the slab, look at YouTube

Connect to a flexi pipe gives you the movement, I have used 3-4 as the periscope was just not doing what I wanted.

You can get a vent that has an adapter on the back to connect to 100mm Flexi ducting, you could install this and leave all floppy until you do your brick work. Or or I would forget the pre made periscope and make your own or fit two periscope side by side, then fit the air brick between the two cutting out the centre bit of plastic and glue in a couple of little blanking bits.