Russell griffiths

I was sort of thinking that, the furthest wc will be used the most with bathroom attached, so lots of flow through the other chambers. I did upload a pic @JFDIY but it’s vanished i think I’m ok now, suddenly had a bout of overthinking.

So reading another post on drainage has got me thinking i have 4 WC all along a long 20m drainage run now it would be lovely to have them all on the main bottom section of the chamber base but I cannot see how this is possible, obviously the furthest away from the treatment plant will be on the main low run but the other 3 are going to have to come in at a side branch from the higher level. This just means the side poop will drop and splat im wondering about changing my chamber bases for level invert ones so there is no drop splat occurring. Im going to look at how the others on site work I’m not sure there is enough evidence of the drop splat theory to worry about. But i I can get 3 level inverts for under £100 so I’m happy to buy some instead of the standard ones I have.

That sort of sounds like what he said @PeterW. I might do a sketch, he runs a large company and normally does big developments so maybe thinking a bit big.

When I had my foul drainage drawings done I was talking to the drainage guy and he mentioned a method he preferred and now for the life of me I cannot picture what he was talking about. What he mentioned was having the ic sort of off line so not in the main run, I just cannot picture this anybody any ideas. @PeterW

Positive placement nail gun for all those hangers.

Blue peters finest there. ??

a lad I knew a few years ago did this on a couple of houses he built, no idea if it worked but he liked the idea.

I did wonder the same, with all the insulation off cuts I have left, why could you not build a cupboard within a cupboard, so box the cylinder into the corner of the plant room.

Something else to think about is foundation design, will you be able to get a foundation right up against their garage and if you can your wall will not be central on the foundation it will be set to the far edge this can sometimes complicate a foundation design.

You can buy mdf panels now with the grooves already routered. So you could laminate two bits of 12mm to make a 25mm thick door.

That house you have pictured looks like it has a timber floor, don’t get to focused on one build method until you have a good look at your plot, I was going to use an insulated slab but found the height difference on my plot made it a bit prohibited. Lots on here have done nice houses to a reasonably sensible budget with timber floor and frame.

As long as it’s an insulated slab, not just a raft as the slab is warm unlike a raft straight onto the ground that would be cold. I dont think you even need the dpc, as that is under the insulated slab already.

Yes walls left short and a metal tie into the trusses, or blocks of timber either side of the wall, but definitely not fixed tight. I think it was to do with the bottom chord of the truss deflecting in high wind loads.

If you overhang what happens if they move and the new neighbour wants to build the same extension as you, they would want you gutter and facia taking back onto your own land. I have dealt with this this a few times in London and it doesn’t make for good neighbourly relations, I would say you need to keep every bit of your extension over your land. Most i I came across with this problem did a re-design and had a parapet wall on that side so a vertical face to the wall with no sticky out soffits

Sort of, if you use a passive slab you don’t use the ring of blocks. More savings. I would go for a metal sheet roof, lots on here used them.

A lot of the new products can be used for all stages, setting tape and finishing. My last place the lads used two different products as they liked that they where different colours top coat had a light yellow tint so it was easy to spot what had been top coated.

Have you thought of shaker style this way you can have a lighter weight centre panel and heavy gauge styles. All mdf.

How ridiculous ??

We don’t have a family bathroom 3 bedrooms all with en-suites then a small cloak room. Im not sure what @ProDave means by accessible bathroom, as far as I’m aware in England I need to supply an accessible toilet not a full bathroom. Can someone confirm this before I loose more sleep

Does anybody do back blocking over here plasterboard offcuts stuck to the back of the boards in between the joists. Overlapping the joints i did my place in oz like this and it was very flat and true without skimming just jointed.

Our neighbour has just cleaned his whole newly erected oak frame using oxalic acid and the finish is outstanding, looks cleaner than when it was first unwrapped on the truck. I don’t know how it will darken but certainly the acid clean worked brilliantly. Probably lots of work

Nu, heat are talking out of their backsides, the heat loss will be huge, get it all broke out, new dpm and new insulation the amount of effort you have gone to already don’t skimp on getting the rest done right.

If you want to put it in there I think 99% of what you have will need throwing away, it will be far easier for the guys to install the fridge and you will need to buy some bridging units to go over the top of the fridge with a couple of new decor end panels. Trying to hack that lot about will cost more in labour than it is worth.

Knauf omni fit, just used this in our roof, was a pleasure to fit, so snuggly the bloody dogs tore a pack apart and made a bed. What is the difference in cost between 50 and 100 cannot be much, if you skimp on the thickness you might regret it later, you will never be able to put more in. I personally would be worried about a bedroom that backs onto another and would do as much as I could to keep the noise down.

2 layers and stagger the joints. Less pathways for heat loss.