Russell griffiths

We are in Cirencester if you want to look at a Nudura icf house, blocks still visible inside and out,

Eps 70 is the normal standard, like the stuff they sell in wickes this is fine for under a floor if it’s some left over packing crates it could be less.

Never. Although I know nothing compared to the insulation experts on here I cannot for the life of me see how they are getting those numbers i think there is a bit of porky telling going on. You would need 120mm of internal insulation on those studs. I think i would give this company a wide berth. My house in oz was built with 90mm studs and it just felt like a fancy shed, they do not build over there for longevity 50 years and bulldoze it and build again.

If he has 50mm tell him to double it up to 100.

Well that maybe is what you need, if you are taking the roof off it needs to go back on at 2.4 minimum and then re make a couple of vaulted areas over the lounge, diner. Do you need that dividing wall between kitchen lounge? I take it its a wall I cannot enlarge the drawing on my I pad. Do you have a budget? i think your measurements are a bit out for internal insulation you say it would drop to 48m I think that’s wrong, you would lose 165mm on both walls so taking your internal to 10 x 5.6 roughly so ending up with 56 hope I haven’t miss read that.

Ok then, you don’t want a cavity, block on flat until icf. If the bricklayer has no experience with icf then don’t listen to him, you need to look on the drawings that are supplied by the icf company you have chosen. look at your chosen make of blocks and have a look on YouTube lots of icf on there, just bear in mind most of it is American and they get earthquakes and things we don’t get. You will need to look at a method to fix the icf in place to the blocks while you pour the concrete.

Why the cavity, it’s not needed, solid block work as John said, what is your floor? have you not got a drawing done for building control. We have solid block work with a block n beam floor i did mine a certain way that worked very well and is structural very good and I’m happy with it, however it was a massive amount of work and I’m not sure I would do it again.

Will they let you increase the ridge height, to gain more internal height.

We looked out you way a few years ago for a plot as we like going out in London a fair bit, we soon found out that you are still well within commuting distance so prices are shocking. I would look down the m4 heading west from reading, just into Wiltshire lots of nice villages and not far from the motorway if you drop down to the m3 it gets a bit trendy again and out towards Farnham is expensive. Have you been to get the particulars on anything like this that is for sale and then go and see the council to get their views on what you want to do.

I have full planning all passed and we have the shell up just starting on the internal. Things inside that are either not on the plans lanes or I have moved. Additional mezzanine level— planners don’t care new stairs up to mezzanine— planners don’t care moved bathroom from one side of house to the other— planners don’t care Internal walls to bedrooms moved— planners don’t care. 2 additional windows added— planners will care. Extra planning needed.

That second one says under offer,

That’s true but your market is small unless you want to try and post a plaster board hoist. I wouldn’t even consider trying to post it, would need to be collect only. I brought mine of face book for £70 and will sell it on Facebook when finished, local audience.

Why not just hire one for a weekend by the time you try and sell it and get messed about by Jonny retard you will wish you had never brought the thing. I think buying and selling is only any good if you think you have a large audience to view the advert. E bay will want 10% off you.

Cut price insulation sent me an e mail saying they are working and have pallets of the stuff.

I have a very similar build, vaulted ceilings throughout, very few internal walls. It was suggested to me to put a couple of sub main consumer units on different sides of the house so instead of running multiple cables in the duct in the floor run heavier cables to different points of the house to supply the sub boards, then from there run your standard cabling. We have found a different way of doing it but it but it might help you.

Why? it has planning for a building that shape and size, what you stick inside it is up to you. I have the shell of my house up now and no internal walls at all as they will they will all be built on top of the internal floor. Now let’s say I get divorced and the misses sods off and I go on a bender and decide to put my 32 coupe in side the house and work on it there is nothing planners can do about it, it’s a building regs issue not planning, the building hasn’t got any bigger I haven’t raised the roof line, I just decided I didn’t need 3 bedrooms but instead a bloody big internal garage. As long as it complied with building regs as far as I’m aware it has nothing to do with planning.

Why would it be a no, I’m not sure where you are but buildings that size are not unusual around here, this is the house we live in while we build the new one next door, it sits in a plot of just under a half acre so a building that size down the bottom of the garden isn’t overly big in the garden. We are in Cirencester M4 twenty minutes, I can be in reading in an hour or Bristol in 50. I think you need to look at 40-50 minutes drive outside the m25 to find larger plot sizes.

How will bco know, I’m sure you won’t have flowers in it by the final inspection

Yes you would sleeve for protection, but not cast in place, drill holes as and when needed your floor designer should be made aware of any large penetrations so they can move the beams left or right as you obviously cannot drill through a beam.

If it was my workshop I would stick down some vinyl tiles on top, easy to sweep, nicer to stand on for long periods.

This is a new plot with planning for a modern family home, I cannot see any reason why you cannot have 140m workshop with 140m studio flat above it, if it has full planning for residential than it would surely only be a formality to only have a part of it for living.

Or this

Here ya go

I think you just need to move out a bit more I bought a few years ago a two bed bungalow with room in the back garden for a workshop that would be approx 18m wide and 12 m deep, is that not big enough.

1. Get some waterproof pva woodwork glue. 2. get a big pile of fine sawdust from sanding wood. 3. mix it into a paste, push into gaps. 4. leave to harden then sand flat. 5. Send beer tokens to me. ??