Russell griffiths

Go to a timber merchants, not builders merchants I got mine from a roof truss company.

Getting back to @Vijay issues I think I would chuck the wobbly wood over in a corner and buy a couple of kerto beams, i think with your system it could really mess you up if you need to fit your next channel on top and it twists.

@scottishjohn I didn’t swap out anything I fixed it all in and then poured the concrete. However I didn’t use solid timber, I hate it, it’s rubbish. I used kerto beams which are a glue lam but for structural work not for show, so they have a rough unfinished surface not ready to varnish. Very good in long lengths with no twist or warping, I think I had some 8m long.

@Vijay can you not use a kerto beam instead of solid timber. Its like a big plywood gluelam. My pole plates are all kerto beams, straight as a die.

@scottishjohn how Vijay describes it is exactly how it’s done, why would you drill the concrete if you don’t need to, I fixed all mine like this, far cheaper, no drilling and no expensive bolts, just threaded rod and a nut and washer.

so if it’s a pole plate to take your floor joists can you not fit some floor joists as well to keep it all true.

Why not run your rainwater pipes to the pond, then have a pump back to a couple of taps placed around the garden. Will require a power supply for pump. I had a house on a terraced plot and managed to get a 5000ltr tank on the high side and the vegetables on the low side so I could water under gravity rather than a pump, but that depends on your garden layout.

Small size sheets 1200x 450 maybe, cannot remember, with a rebate edge all around so they lock together, sort of. You can stick it through the table saw with a bit of melting and dust.

Can you fit some 150x25 instead to hold bolts in place and stuff, then strip these off and fit your 50mm stuff later

Not really sure what it cost, I just bought one pack of 80mm for under my door threshold. Its kingspan greengaurd.

I have got some XPS 500 I’m going to use that underneath it for support, it only sticks out 60-70 mm so not a lot, it’s very tough stuff have a look at CHARLIE LUXTON videos he sits his big windows on them. When you look look at the radius of a car wheel it will have very little contact. I did think of not having the angle at angle at all and just putting a polyurethane sealant on top of the xps.

@tanneja are you better of not keeping the heat out by design either larger roof overhangs or brise solei (spelling) i have designed in 1600mm roof overhang where I have a few windows and these last few days I haven’t noticed any sun penetration through those windows.

I think I’m going to do something like this, I haven’t put a lot of thought into it but it’s sort of what I’m thinking.

@tanneja if you put @ before a users name it highlights it and sends them a notification @bluebirdnick

Nice looking place, they don’t build them like that anymore

I wouldn’t, what if your floor choice requires the wood to be glued down and it won’t stick to the paint. Why not look for some cheap vinyl and lay it in the crucial areas, the money you spend on paint you could spend £200 on some cheap carpet off cuts in the bedroom and a vinyl square in the kitchen. I fully carpeted a whole whole house with carpet from a skip that was being taken out of a big hotel in London, we lived like that for a couple of years.

It’s the highly knowledgeable members ??

Well you bought it.

Hadn’t thought of lintels ??

You normally get cracking at a window, I would run them up the sides of there if convenient.

I think we talked about this before, I seam to remember a fibreglass upstand to separate inside from outside, I think it’s what I’m going to do, you can drive over it but minimal cold bridge.

Wheelchair ramp is a mornings work. There was an aluminium one in sections on e bay the other day £250.

If you want this to become an annexe in future you would be better off building it to building regs now so you don’t have to rip it to pieces to add insulation when you do convert it.

I think we have got a bit mixed up here, I certainly have i thought originally you where talking about a house slab that the whole house would sit on, if it’s an extension then just talk to building control they will have a good idea of what is used locally for your ground conditions.

Why not timberframe build the frame on the floor and clad the outside then stand it up you only need to get to the corners to put some corner trim on. Its done like this for a few modular buildings. It can be built overhand, but how are you proposing to weatherproof the block work, 100mm blocks are notoriously porous.