Russell griffiths

How do you intend tying the new bit of concrete into the original bit, I wouldn’t be happy just pouring a funny shape bit of concrete on the side. I would want it all tied into the original pour.

If you have large cement tiles why do you think they are only going to last another 10 years?? if your removing them I would want them for a lot less than £500, who else will want them?

If your paying for it,

You only need the one with the protection layer if you are leaving it with no roof above it for some time.

If it’s nothing complicated find a local architectural technician, I paid £20 per hour.

You need to look at the situation and stare at it, thinking if any water was to enter the cavity can it run to the inside, any chance of moisture in the cavity must be shed to the outer leaf. Are you not having a solid floor ? re your other question, or are these to serve the original property. TBH a roll of dpc cost pennies so your better off just doing a nice tray damp course all around.

Shouldn’t be any hardcore nowadays. Type 1 compacted sand blinding dpm. Concrete insulation screed. Or alternatively. Type1 thin insulation dpm more insulation concrete. Theres many ways to do it but hardcore and concrete should be left for a shed base, there is no way to compact it sufficiently to avoid voids in it.

What insulation is in the floor and roof.

We used a planning consultant, best money I’ve spent in a long time. I would find one locally that knows the area and then check them out, see what they have achieved lately. As above I wouldn’t waste too much money on drawings for something you won’t get permission for, you may need all the money for the big fight you have in front of you.

Whereabouts are you.

Depends what it’s holding up. Ive laid concrete straight onto a plastic dpm straight on the dirt. But I wouldn’t put a house on it.

I think it’s 925 air sealing I used. Too many numbers bouncing around in my head.

You need to get your floor level worked out and damp course levels to make sure it all works. And look at weep holes if you now have a full cavity. Check it it all out before you go further.

Reason it happened. Blocks too dry, mortar to dry, insufficient bond between the two, too much concrete, don’t dwell on it too much, learn and move on. Here’s a wild idea. Smash off the top course of bricks that have collapsed. Extend dpm into cavity. Fill cavity with concrete level with what you have. Build inner leaf from that adding a tray dpc to end on top of block shown. You dont need an open cavity below dpc, you could fill it, well you started to ??, sorry couldn’t resist it. Obviously without seeing levels of ffl this could all be nonsense. Otherwise i think you need to get the kango out.

Leave them the plasterer will not have a problem with them, can you imagine some of the stuff they deal with.

I have heard on the icf grapevine that the plastic cross ties can be a problem when pouring concrete, i was told the flat surface on the top of the ties holds concrete, so it’s possible to get voids, and also on your second pour you end up with lots of dry snots that then break off and fall into the cavity. Just what i was told never used it.

That looks excellent @D Walter???

That’s cool as long as you knew where you are heading. Lots of people with champagne taste and a beer budget.

I don’t see why you need to wait BUT DO NOT KNOCK A THING DOWN until you have approval for the new building.

Have you priced them. I bet that’s £10,000 plus for those two doors.

Really, so are you doing the blockwork, that will only work if you fit them as a bricky team are not going to stop to start drilling in ties.

Do you turn the inner board back when not in use, normally saves staining and dirty brickwork.

You cannot use full size boards as the wall ties will get in the way, need to use correct size sheets that match the tie spacing. That is why they make those small sheets purpofor the job.

Have you considered moving, new build so should sell quickly, upgrade to a larger version on the same site, save 18months of agro.

Look for products made by ILLBRUCK I have been using sp295 it comes in foil tubes, sticks to everything. Most people use the stretch tape on timberframe