Russell griffiths

I have 200mm of batts between rafters and 75 mm pir underneath all joined together with squirty foam and joins taped to form my air tight layer, foamed to walls and taped between walls and pir. Not as as good as some with u value, but airtight no gaps in insulation detailing absolutely spot on as I did it. So some may have a better u value but badly executed by the builder.

£18 per m traditional screed with fibres. The lads that did mine travelled for 1-1/2 hours to get to me, they said they do it every day.

Bear in mind your duct will be 92mm in diameter, unless you use the eye wateringly expensive oval stuff.

You need the roof on as soon as the frame is up to load the structure, you will probably stick 3-4 tonne of materials on that roof. Then the rest as peter said. How can the plumbers and electricians come in without studwork up, where are they going to run pipes,cables. What are you fixing sockets to, you cannot hang them in thin air. Roof on. Insulation ufh screed studwork mvhr plumber- electrician same time. Mvhr before other services always as its bigger duct and needs the most space.

Your fresh air in and stale air out will be via the plant room, not from the rooms that are being vented. Thats if I’m reading your post correctly, all rooms go back to a central location and then out doors from there. I think im reading it correctly as I just re read your original question where you say inlets and outlets, you only have one inlet and one outlet, not one per room.

Yes it could sit there for years.

Why? thats dearer than doing it in 110mm underground pipe, how will you rod it if it blocks. No only suitable for a pumped outlet.

Definitely not. Why would you want to blow all that moist stale air out under your roof covering. Nope,

That’s lovely, but it doesn’t need to all move. 8m fixed with a 4m opening section.

The easiest way to run it through the icf, is to not be over critical with location, if you think you need a 150mm hole running up at an angle then make a 450mm square void in the icf. I would cast in a 450mm square of eps into the core of the icf, then you can cut your hole wherever you want just by chewing out a bit more eps, no concrete bashing to do. So big hole, centre flue, repair around it.

Why not fit it in the ceiling void so you have no projection into the room below, lots more work but a better outcome.

We went through this scenario, we could have had a 9m opening looking out onto a stunning view, but in reality we live in England where it is damp and miserable half the year, so how many times do you open that door fully. We we ended up with a 4.5m door and a 3m picture window, this is far more practical, reduced the cost of the supporting structure, was simpler to build. Win win.

Goal posts are only half the answer, everything deflects to a certain amount, it’s leaving the correct clearance below the beam that prevents it restricting door movement. I cannot understand anybody who would spec a steel to sit to sit on a set of timber supporting studs.

My window company insisted that I leave a 30mm void above the sliders, as they are having problems with frames and beams moving, i wasn’t happy as I’ve built in icf and couldn’t see any deflection happening, but they insisted. Im glad they did really although I’m not expecting any movement. I can see this problem occurring more as people build larger openings spanned with steel incorporated into a timber frame. Steel goal post always.

@KevinJ one for you.

What about the load on the walls supporting theses trusses, I would expect the oak ones to weigh 3 times the weight of the softwood ones.

Why not ask him to pour some of the D4 glue down the gap when he fits the floor sheets, an extra couple of bottles of glue won’t brake the bank.

Are you having a garage ? you could build a 6x8 m garage and fit it out with a toilet and shower, would be up in a couple of months ready to live in.

Why not just get a builder to price it all, he will have his own contacts. You just need to choose all the fancy fittings. He will self self manage it without really being asked to. You just need a clear clear direction of what you want. And be realistic with a budget.

If you are on a budget then buy yourself a digger and do as much as you can.

Birch will be no good for fencing, it will only last about 2 years once cut.

If you want the cheapest option. Get the groundwork guy to dig them out and chuck in a heap and wait for November the 5th. However a nicer option would be to get the groundwork guy to dig them out with his biggest bucket and move them to another part of the site. Option 1. two hours work. Option 2. 6 hours work. Bear in mind if you wanted to go to go and buy them at the end of the build you have a few thousand pounds worth there, so worth a punt moving them even if only 30% survive as it’s completely the wrong time to do it.

So why the termite barrier???

Why swap to hep when you can get solvent weld in smaller sizes, standard overflow pipe size, then you are not mixing pipe types.

Are you in this country ? or have you used an online architect service? there is some weird stuff going on in your drawings, termite barriers WTF.