Conor

Cordless grinders are fantastic, I love my Makita, but for that job you'll be replacing batteries every ~20mins. Get a corded 5". Cordless still worth having and might be useful for awkward bits in and around eaves etc.

Just need to make sure the pipe sizes are per the manufacturer's guidance for the given length. Normally something like 28mm. And properly insulated.

Is the 55mm layer TLA? If that's the case then this buildup will be terrible. Even when set, the TLA is like a sponge. It's won't take any kind of point loading at all, and the 5mm SLC will crack. What stage is the floor build at? Is it block and beam or precast concrete planks? If block and beam, you can lift the blocks and replace them with EPS. Otherwise, I think ~80mm PIR and 50mm liquid screed is your best option.

Majority of modern stuff stops working. Wasted a fortune on rechargable batteries for kids toys, they die after a few mins as the voltage drops. Seems only likes of remote controls and keyboard / mouse are the only things in our house that work with rechargeables. Back to disposable batteries for most stuff unfortunately.

Mine is fitted to airated wall as well. Three 70mm concrete screws through the PB and into the block. No issues.

Lazy work (tho it looks better and they went under the tiles and lead valley), they didn't even take the gutters off. Did they lay the rubber on the felt or did they strip it? What's the fascia build up under the gutter?

Basement, technically part of the house but we don't hear it that much. Storage and plant. Can't remember the figures bout about the same as 100mm PIR, so min to pass BC. It's not a simple as.that though, as the stuff doesn't have any joins or gaps so it'll perform better. We used in on on intermediate floors on top of the precast slabs. What's the garage floor build up again? XPS, then TLA, what goes on top? Structural screed or concrete? If you've 200mm build up to play with them I'd go 100mm PIR and 100mm concrete with UFH.

Nope. We've 200mm, for comparison. Main reason being you're going to have the heating on a lot, lot more with UFH dut to the heatup time. If it's an occasional space, just heat when needed. 30mins with a 3kW blow heater will get it up to heat no bother. And for the brewing, I still use my insualted box with heat mat, even though the basement plant room is always 19-20c.

You've next to no insulation in the floor, you'll lose a colossal amount of energy to the ground. Forget the whole thermal mass thing, doesn't really make a difference.

Ply line that wall before boarding. Makes life sooo much simpler.

I did this, but the run suffers from gurgling as the two 90⁰ bends cause a bit of surcharging. I'd reccomend using 45⁰s instead, with about 200mm between them to keep the water flowing smoothly.

Oh, they could work. Pricy, but will catch all those horrible sycamore seeds.

Get a hose adapter for the water supply and two big propane tanks and most importantly a reminder in your calendar to empty the toilet cassette! I tried to use the site portaloo as much as possible.

That's exactly what we did. Hid it best we could from 5h3 road so wouldn't get complaints. Loved it. During the build I was working a flexible 3 day week and it worked out great for a small office space. Being able to cook and heat food was a great money saver.

Hi. Suspended paving on on balcony is nearly down. I've two rainwater downpipes coming down from roof above. Intention is they flow though the paving and then onto the GRP deck and down through the outlets for the deck itself. How do I manage this? First thought was to core a 75mm hole in the pavers and have the downpipe go through and simply spill on to the deck with a normal shoe. Issue is that will introduce a load of debris that will then get stuck on the deck and potentially clog the outlets. So I'm now thinking of fitting a gully grid to the pavers and have the downpipe spill on to these. Then all the autumn time crap can be dealt with. Question is how to I go about doing a neat job of this? I can't see how I can easily fit a grid and frame to a paver and support it. Is there a bespoke product for this? Or do I just rob one from a standard fully trap and find a way to fix it?

What's your ultimate aim? If it's to understand how much energy is being used, then a flow meter and data logger on the oil line will give you all this.

The air in sewers is generally warm, the the losses are minimal. All three of our stacks are on internal AAVs. No issues. All wrapped in rockwool anyway as it's a sound requirement for BC.

Is boarding over an option? House we bought the previous owners had done precisely that in half the house. Used something like 63x22mm battens. Removing old lath and plaster ceilings isn't a nice job.

Does look like you could get a few more panels on the south roof. Change that row of 6 portrait panels for two rows of 4 landscape. If you're using the likes of GSE trays, the. You can go right up to the ridge or into the gutter. Can't comment on the main question but we've all solar edge stuff here and it's flawless.

Use a dry/lean mix to prevent flotation. There should be a be a guide in the instructions to tell you how much is needed. Don't want to get it wrong.

Leave the windows open all of the time.

Wouldn't go less than the standard 110mm. Many toilets have 90mm pan connectors but you do t see 90mm soil pipes.

+1 The ashp slab cooling really works and costs bugger all to run if you have a ~4pkW PV array. You only use it on sunny days after all. Also, less glass, shading. Prevention is better than cure.

Yeah, I've left a 15mm gap between the frame and the paving. Our build is a bit different as it's ICF with a basement so we're tanked up to ground level then DPC lapped over to about 200mm above FFL. Tanking also goes right up and over the door block. Also north facing and sheltered so no real worries.

Shuttered it all and put a layer of mesh in it. Directly on top of the backfill stones. Then layer pavers on with 30mm cement bed. We'll put some sort of facing brick or kerb on it when we finalise the driveway. Landing is 1200mm deep and path is 900 + 10pmm stone channel. Slopes down to the final drive level. There's more paving to be done plus a canopy porch at the front door.