Conor

Stainless steel I hope, or at least galvanized.

The water company will replace the lead connection for free - as long as all of the lead on your side is replaced first.

This is all we have so far. No plans but kitchen area is about 4.8m long and 4.2m wide. Island is 2600x900mm ex overhangs.

Do a search, I linked to the coupler I used to do from 1.25" 9lb lead to 25mm mdpe. Search for universal coupler

That's almost identical to our layout except the oven is at the opposite end. And I dropped the prep sink in favour of more worktop.

Mock it up. We found that the standard 1200 gap between island and units was too much if it was a working area - e.g. between oven and island. We made our last kitchen 1000mm after overhangs. For mixed area of the kitchen (e.g. bins, sink etc) where you could be passing by another person, the 1000mm wasn't enough and this time we're allowing 1200mm. For parts where you don't have opposing units, 900mm is perfect. You look cosy enough as it is, so I'd keep the island the same, just move it over to the left by ~100mm. When it comes to fitting time, you'll be able to move things about slightly anyway. Where is your sink / oven etc on that drawing? What's the space to the top of the drawing? Does kitchen end or does it open to another space? I.e. is there traffic through to another room via the kitchen?

90s fine as above but don't have them too close together - try and leave 5x pipe diameters (250mm in your case) between bends. This to reduce excessive turbulence, gurgling and surcharging. Basically, don't do what I've done here ?

Standard cordless drill with two 5ah batteries and charger for £150... Considering that the batteries are £100 each, great value. https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dhp453ste-18v-5-0ah-li-ion-lxt-cordless-combi-drill/487kg#

That's too rough. You need a layer of crusher run or fines compacted over it. Hire a roller for a day. Much more fun.

We used stainless steel Rawl bolts with Larsen resin, worked a treat. The larsen comes in a standard silicone sized tube with a mixing nozzle. Dead easy. Couldn't get hilti locally but they more than did the job.

Just kindling?

Nope. Two dirty diesels! Nearly new Leaf will be incoming once we have the build done. Maybe a VW ID4 our Hyundai EV6 down the line. I'm doing the ASHP install myself. Though I have plumbers starting on Monday and this may something I delegate to them. A Monoblock with a pre-plumed cylinder is literally two water pipes, data cable and power supply. Can't be that hard, esp with @dpmiller consulting!! Site visit anytime... I'm here 7 days a week 8am-8pm.... all ahead of you

At 330m2 and with some very long duct runs, you should consider two units.

A house with a SAP of 92+ will have nice and low running costs. Our PV should produce more than we consume (ex car charging and heating). You could technically get away with one MVH but it'll be running on relatively high fan speeds. I went for two Salda units from BPC because we have a mezzanine splitting the house in two so we can't run services across it. So one unit per side. The GSHP will definitely work better in the winter than an ASHP. I'm guessing your installer is Daly? Who's your architect if you don't mind me asking? Ours (FMK) are from that part of the world. Free to visit my site any time btw. @dpmillerand @Mr Blobby have both had tours ?

'Bout ye Any plans to share? Any reason for ground source over air source? You'll find air source will come in about half the cost of ground source. You'll likely need two mvhrs. Plan for that now. Give me a shout if you need any recommendations for trades/ professionals.

There so much wrong with this I don't know where to begin. Gym should be an extract. Laundry needs an extract. Hallways / intermediate spaces shouldn't have anything. Extract and supply in the living makes no sense. You have to think about how the air flows through the entire building. You want to encourage air flow out of habitable rooms to extract points. Pick a definite location for your unit(s) and take it from there. What's your floor area? FYI I am not an expert at all but I have learned a lot from a friend who most definitely is an expert.

We've a few short runs in through the screed insulation, but majority are below the slab in the hardcore layer. Make sure you tape the dpm well to the pipes. I'm assuming building control approved your drainage design?

My neighbour has a Tesla long range dual motor. I think his commute is about 6 miles each way. He only charges about once a month. I think in few years time batteries will get smaller as people get over their range anxiety obsession and public chargers are ubiquitous. Means more frequent but shorter charging. We've a 7kW going in and I don't regret going for 3phase at all. Will be more than enough for our likely two electric car household.

Most lenders won't let you apply until you've either got outline PP or full PP if it's a replacement dwelling. But would be worth going to a broker and just doing an addorability check.

Make your veluxes as small as possible. Ours are only 600x900 and max two per large room... Let more than enough light in. Deep reveals and large overhangs make a huge difference. Get somebody to do a proper solar gain analysis in PHPP and work it from there. If you get these details right, you may not need to spend a fortune on external shading. Our modelling says we need 6m X 2m bride soleil over the southern windows... As you can guess the quotes have been quite large. We've extended the roof overhang and are going to see how it works next summer before spending more money on shading.

It's not hard to get to 88. Triple glazing, good airtightness, mvhr, a few solar panels. We were at 91 with standard 0.2 u value walls. You'll reap the rewards. Go back to your architect and see what would be required. You're nowhere near starting your build so plenty of opportunity.

Give ecology a call. Your cash and LTV is better than ours and we had no issues.

Our drywalling is starting on Wednesday and I'll ask the guys.

We built up 300mm of ply up the roof, flat roofer made a 300mm flashing for this and brought the roof covering to this. The roofing felt lapped over the flashing and in our case we had GSE roof trays meet it, but other wise you'd just bring your tiles/ slates down to the valley. The flat roof falls back to the valley and rainwater continues down the pitch roof to the gutter. Ours was a dormer

Induction paperwork, site risk assessment, display your insurance documents, loads of posters and you'll be grand. If you are getting a toilet, try and get one with proper hot running water for hand washing. I regret just getting a chemical portaloo and not plumbing in a proper bathroom unit.