Conor

Ecology should be your first and last stop. No other lender was as flexible as them (taking over a residential mortgage as a self build at the same LTV) and ever since they have been amazing.

Unfortunately it's right at the end of a long slab that's taking part of a wall and already has services though it... hesitant to cut anything from it.

Our bathroom supplier has specced a preformed 1700x900mm wet-room tray with a 100mm deep trap for our wet-room. Issue is we only have a 75mm screed build up on top of our hallowcore slab. It's "slot" type drain so I don't think we can use a third party trap. Any other options? Are there low profile traps and shower tanking options out there? We can go down through the concrete slab almost straight away so no issues for the waste pipe - just need a trap withless than 75mm total height under the tray. This is the kit: https://www.plumbarena.co.uk/product/abacus-elements-level-tray-kit-16x9-end-linear-300-drain-emk3-en-1609/?gclid=CjwKCAjwj8eJBhA5EiwAg3z0m5iLGHqdfk1407NXHgRoDhBv_aPQGqJuCkwEf14NoNowmXMOm5EKjhoCv4MQAvD_BwE#.YTH-c2nTVCU

this is exactly what our screed guy has suggested. You can does this over sand and cement screed, but not liquid. Decision made for us.

Location 1. And instead of all flexi pipes coming from there, have a single 125 or 160mm vertical riser to the next ceiling so you have a manifold for each floor and fewer penetrations. That's what I'm doing.

Entirely up to you. Our architect specced no overhang, I increased it to 600mm for some shading, hopefully enough to mitigate need for a brise soleil. How is your drainage designed? E.g. fall back to the valley, or off the sides?

It was a few years ago now. Think I had the wallplate all the way round. Fixed down with long screws I think.

That's how I did it - extra row of bricks to create a slight fall. Fitted wall plate all the way round before fitting the roof joists. Fascia board covered the gap on the sides between roof parapet and masonry. Don't see why would couldn't go an extra brick or two and cut bricks at an angle on the sides.

70mm studs. Yes, those are the fixings. They used a nailgun for the studs.

You wont be able to get a cantilever there. You generally need double the wall length to opening sizein order to carry the cantilever, regardless of method used. We have a 2x2m opening on a 5x5m room and has a 80mm corner post. It was originally designed as a cantilever but didn't work once we added the extra story on top. If I were you, do the same as us and make both returns the same - i.e. 2.5m x 2.5m. Hard to see much with the scaffolding up

1. 6mm x 35mm expanding metal fixing pins. don't know the name 2. no, they did all the ceilings first, but ended ceilings where they knew there was a partition and left them short 3. not needed as the top hats are just a few mm from the perimeter. 4. in this section, pink fireboard due to the steels and timber. rest of the house is 12.5mm board. Most of the ceilings are like this with full service void.

Our understanding of materials and chemicals and their impacts on environment / biology are leagues above where they were even a couple decades ago. I'd be surprised if there was anything we currently use that would turn out to be as nasty as asbestos in a few decades. One thing that I do think needs to change is recycling. What happens at then end of the life of a building? He do we deal with all the plastic mixed in with the concrete and wood? E.g. plastic fibres in concrete, or ICF. There's no consideration for end of life logistics in modern building.

Our Slater's only use a Stihl saw for cutting slates. For trimming corners etc they use snips.

Cheapy off Amazon. £125 I think. You need one with a flexible blade "groover" to make channels for conduit and pipes.

yep, hot knife. sparks loved working with it.

It's from gyproc. All I know because it was a supply and fit from our MF contractor. Think it was about £12m2.

Seems no: Excellent, one less job to do.,

I mean laterally, along the pipe. E.g if you are encasing a 6m run of 110mm PVC, continue another 550mm past the joint to the next pipe on either end. Will prevent any differential movement.

My GSE instructions say I need to ground the panels behind the trays. My Solar Edge instructions make no mention of earthing/ grounding. Thoughts?

I have a tub of bitumen paint on site for these kind of events.

We're using gypline brackets for a 40mm ceiling. The guys had this room done before I'd finished my morning cup of tea and buildhub browsing.

Again, yes. It is done all the time in the civils world. I would encase to the joints at either end of the pipe you are encasing to at lease 5x diameters.

Why don't you use metal suspended ceilings? I don't see how you could get a flat and straight ceiling with timber. Stick all your services in, then get the metal brackets and edge channels installed at the height required. It's very fast.

I recommend you find a renderer first. They all have their preferred systems. We've ended up with somebody that prefers Sto. Supply and fit. I would recommend getting somebody that knows the system and let them decide the technical requirements. If you dictate how it should be done, and something goes wrong, you'll have no comeback. You can get fully warrantied systems through render suppliers but pricy!!! Re fixing render board. 100% you need mechanical fixings. They are pretty heavy even before the render goes on. You can use EPS sheets instead. My joiners shot on timber battens to the steels and I fixed on EPS with galvanised screws. For the soffits and fascias we fixed the render board with 5mm galvanized screws at 200mm centres and a bead of adhesive.

Yep, there isn't enough knowledge out there in the industry. My electricians had never worked on a house that had an ashp and had to be spoon fed the electric requirements. 2030 would seem a more realistic target.