Mr Punter

It is worth keeping it covered for at least a week, especially if is windy, warm or in the sun.

It may be better to run the vent to the back through the bathroom. You may need a build over agreement with the water company for the sewer.

You must have got some cracking additions to your private video collection though. Could you fit some filthy sex ponds hot tubs in your HMOs?

Calm down. They are normally really slow. As you wrote to them last week, leave it until Friday to speak to them. The appeal route is a non-starter. They can string you along for months if they want to. Rear extension is normally PD. Are you doing anything lairy? If not, just be polite and bide your time.

Really? What do they use for wall ties and lintels? Must be a wider bucket on the digger as well.

+1 don't do it. It is probably OK but possibly a world of pain.

It looks like you may need some lead flashing into the wall above the bricks. If the blockwork is rendered you should be OK as is.

You could use a James Hardie top ventilation strip the other way up nailed to the bottom of the battens. Render up to it and let the timber cladding overhang by 30mm. https://www.jameshardie.co.uk/en/cladding/cladding-accessories

Mineral wool and standard plasterboard are non combustible. I guess you could just do the bit at the back.

No, not structural. Structural cracks normally run down the height of the wall, often at an angle and wider at the top. They often form at door and window openings.

You could contact Marley or whoever and ask what they recommend. Possibly the tiles on the small section should all be cut on the angle to run to the valley like the other side. It looks like a real fiddle to do. The hip tile on the right is too small. It would have been nice if they lined up either side. Also they need to be held down at the junction where they meet.

Could you do external wall insulation on the existing, with a thin render finish, and a 350mm cavity wall (150mm cavity with blown bead) for the new bits? You could have some brickwork in the new bit if you like.

From the photos there may be some asbestos in there, so be cautious and assume it is. Keep it damp and not create dust. A decent mask is a must as well.

That is a fairly simple, workable and cost effective suggestion from @Iceverge. I guess it is mineral wool in the service cavity. I know that BC can get sticky with cold flat roof designs and would probably want a condensation risk analysis for this one. There is a lot of reliance on the inner "airtight" membrane stopping water vapour migrating into the build-up and there is not solid surface to attach it to.

A fatal flaw in this is that the table shows plaster density at 2,700kg/m3 when in fact it is about 650kg/m3.

This would make a great shower room. You could have the basin in the recess on the left and an 800 x 1300 shower on the right. Plenty of space. Very cramped with the bath.

You can get l-shaped sole plate anchors that fix to the side of the sole plate if you don't want to pierce the DPC.

I had about 160m2 of boards sanded and finished several years ago in a first floor office. They used the sawdust from the sanding and mixed it with PVA to fill the gaps. 2 coats of floor varnish to finish. It looked really good compared to original.

Masonry paint will probably do and it is fairly cheap and simple.

You need it all the same level, so you will need to fill part of it with well compacted layers of aggregate.

I doubt it. What a pain to do. You need them all in nice and flat and level and smooth. I have just cut out for a couple of padstones on an existing wall and that took a while to stitch drill. Can't you have a ground bearing slab?

UKPN get very pissy if you touch any of their stuff. Part of the reason is that it is not fused, so if their cable shorts when you move it can cause major issues in the whole area.

4X2 - 100 x 47. You could have gravel board at the bottom but no need. A chop saw may be better for cutting the feather edge.

You could easily do this in closeboard and cut the arris rails to suit the span. You could have a 1/2 post either end and arris brackets.

Swap the latch out. That is not acceptable. It should not put up much resistance to latching. Does the handle have a strong spring?