Mr Punter

The window looks fairly new. It is quite surprising how much force is needed to open and close these. Maybe get in touch with Velux suggesting the product is defective? They may let you have the part a bit cheaper.

You don't need to alternate the block on flat from inside to outside. Do it inside all the way. BTW Poratherm has many negatives. Very difficult to get a fixing and not good thermally. There is a reason they don't get used over here much.

No. You could write to the other side's solicitor yourself saying that you intend to use your right of way as you are permitted to do. Each time they write to you it will cost the neighbour. An injunction will fail unless they have good grounds for granting it.

Is that to the stud, backer board or tile face?

I think they should be at least 35mm. Some of them run down to nothing, which is OK if they are on top the joist parallel but not if perpendicular.

No. You often see below ground just built in 2 separate leaves with a load of cavity fill concrete between. If the footings are deep you could put in some wall ties but I don't think you need them.

Sorry I was digressing but making the point that they don't bond every course. I think you run round the outside with block on edge and the inside with block on flat. They don't need to be bonded together. Treat them like they are 2 leaves. Obvs 2 flat = 1 on edge.

You should be fine here but I have seen where the width is too great in an alcove and we had to get a special door made. You can drop the backer boards onto the tray if it is tight but I like an overlap anyway.

Where we are I often see 215 blockwork done 2 courses stacked. It does not really look right but I think the brickie does cage fighting.

Advertise the tiles on Freecycle. I once did this and someone came round and stripped and removed a load of concrete plain tiles. Saved me a job and some skip space.

If your existing gas boiler is OK it will cost you more to replace it. There will be little or no saving in running costs.

Out through a wall duct. I don't think they are anything like as efficient as a proper split A/C though.

You need to plant some timber screwed and glued all along the low joists to make up the height. Just a few shims won't give good results.

You need to cut out any sunlight directly penetrating to reduce gains. On Velux, external blinds work best. For cooling a split A/C is best. In my house we only have internal blinds and A/C is not practical to install. Some of the bedrooms get hot in the mornings. Luckily my office is on the ground floor so is tolerable.

I would not bother with a lintel. The opening will be less than 140mm wide if it is done carefully. Fill and bed with sand cement mortar.

Yes. Unless he is sending out tenders invitations, evaluating and dealing with replies and managing payments as work progresses I am not sure why it is costing you so much.

Use one like @Temp suggests. You will be best stitch drilling at an angle as you will need to take off part of about 4 courses. I would not bother with a lintel.

I have used Estimators Online and they give a decent breakdown of estimated costs. For a house they charge £225 plus VAT. Handy as a sanity check and to send out to merchants etc. I also send to contractors sometimes as a guide only.

A few years ago we just had to pay the local archaeological society and couple of hundred pounds and one of their volunteers would turn up on site from time to time and chat to the groundworkers. Now we are asked to get a professional archaeologist to do a written scheme of investigation submit it for approval, log and record any findings and get the final report approved as part of a planning condition. Beware if they find a fragment of tile or brick older than a couple of hundred years.

I tend to really shop around for money, although I have used one broker for several deals recently. You can go with whoever offers the best deal. It is not as if you have signed an exclusivity agreement with the broker. Valuations and fees really add a lot to the costs. You will have done in £15k before you set foot on site.

About 10 years ago we did a big bungalow with a drum shape at one end. Timber frame. Another member on here has done a big curved house in blockwork.

I think it is only toughened / safety glass that has the marks, not coatings. Mine also have some more letters and numbers on the spacer bars that identify properties of the triple glazed unit.

It may be simpler to fix a pole plate to the face of the wall with resin studs, then use hangers for the joists. At that height you could maybe get some trestles and scaffold planks to get to them.

If that is the outer leaf of a cavity wall you would not normally extend the joists to it. Also you may want to get some wall starters or ties fixed to the steels so it ties it all together.

1. When you install a floor / bottom in a basement, do you still need a load of insulation. If a basement is underground on 3 1/2 sides. Just a lightwell exposed. If that floor is say 4mt underground is the temperature not stable, and quite warm at that point ? Yes you do, although not quite as much 2. I believe that to comply with building regs you have to have Two methods of keeping water out ? Any idea what is normally done ? I was thinking about a french drain around the base to a sump with a pump which would take that water to a suitable soakaway ? I'm not sure what other methods might be used ? Often either waterproof concrete or external membrane and perimeter drain plus type C internal drained cavity. 3. I know that sometimes basements are constructed using formwork, and waterproof concrete. Any ideas as to what other methods might be suitable ? Concrete block 4. If a bathroom was to be fitted in a basement, i take it that a macerator pump would be required to take the waste up to ground level where it could be discharged into a normal 100mm soil pipe ? Mini pump station is better and quieter as it does not need to blitz, only runs occasionally and has a decent bore discharge pipe.. 5. Any directions to web sites, or you tubes, that might give me a better idea of methods available ? 6. Anything else you think i might need to consider ? Ground investigation will have a large impact on the engineering. Also consider ventilation and fire escape.