Mr Punter

Could you use a corner moulding on this side instead of architrave?

Surely you don't pay rates when it has been demolished?

I don't think this really backs up your claim that PIR makes a building "sweaty in summer". I appreciate that it does not have the decrement delay of some materials such as woodfibre or cellulose, but plasterboard can have a similar buffering effect. Regarding breathability, many modern buildups include a vapour resistant plastic layer. Cold stores and freezer rooms often use PIR as thermal insulation.

Also, you cannot always cut out plasterboard. It could serve as fireproofing or soundproofing.

Are all the trusses on now? The span looks quite big. I think you will have to wait for Monday for it to cool down.

I thought it was flexi insulation?

If it were me I would make the 2 x 2s a bit longer and nail them into the sides of the rafters.

Do you have a link that substantiates your assertion? It sounds like nonsense, possibly based on the hot summer and your house maybe gets a bit of solar gain and has no a/c.

I still don't get it. The bit with the motor is normally inside. Was this just a plastic vent, or a fully wired in mechanical extract?

Could you lay the bricks on the lintel and neatly point them, wait for them to go off then lift the whole thing into place?

It looks like solid walls as well. If you could do the whole block with external wall insulation and take it around the balcony it could work well with no loss of floor space, ceiling height or internal disruption.

The end ridge tiles are often mortered at the ends and have a hole drilled through the top with a stainless steel screw fixing to keep it in place.

Yoiu could get single leaf lintels. They will be properly designed for given load capacities and shoud be galvanised.

I have had a freestanding Liebherr fridge freezer. The only problem was the door handles broke and needed replacing, othwise very good.

It looks like it has been applied by a with the back of a shovel. Was the substrate reasonably flat?

I am not sure what the point is. I ca see a hole in the outer leaf of a wall and a lintel or floor plank where it looks like someone has tried to core through?

If this is for 5 properties, could the cost be shared? You may mitigate a fair bit if you can get consent from whoever owns the verge.

If the walls are dry and properly pointed they will have a bit of thermal resistance anyway. The floors, roof and windows also play a big role in thermal efficiency. You can use a heat pump but if the house is poorly insulated and not fairly airtight it will cost a fortune to run.

The UC will be a bit lighter than even 1 concrete. Cost may be similar. I can't help on the oak. SEs like softwood with a known strength grade. I was surprised when an engineer recently specified 3 ply 220 x 45 C24 to support a loadbearing wall 1.5m span.

The door threshold will sit on the masonry or a cill, which in turn will be on the masonry. Make sure that your internal finished floor level is lower than any inward opening doors. Sometimes, with a bit too much screed, some timber flooring and some miscalculations and there can be quite a workaround.

Make a frame using 2"x2". Cut 2 lengths at 290mm and 2 at 360mm. Fix the longer pieces to the ends of the shorter ones with 80mm screws. Offset the frame with a couple of blocks and pour the grout slowly into the offset bit until you can see it coming out all round. Take the frame off the next day. Should look like this:

OK so just backerboard the sides and tile the lot. No piss coloured grout though!

Rendered and painted? Maybe some render board for the reveals.

It would be a good plan to remove the plasterboard from the inside so you can see what you have there. I imagine there are several load bearing studs between the small openings plus either end. You will also need to see how the top has been designed. Once you have opened this up you can get an engineer to do the design and calcs. Bear in mind the timber frame may be taking the roof and first floor loadings.

Timber frame has been around for ages. The insulation and airtightness standards 30 years ago were nothing like as stringent as they are now. If it has a brick or rendered block outer leaf it should be easy to insure and mortgage. No specialist trades needed.