Mr Punter

Yes I have had this. Extra costs were less than 5%. It was for during construction fire risk. Some floor decks were fire resistant and some wall had Fermacell sheathing. The TF supplier did all the calcs. The project was a terrace with brick and block ground floor and timber frame above, max 4 storeys. The fire engineering compartmentalises the space to reduce the radiant heat to adjacent buildings. The end units had a double layer of Fermacell on the outside walls. There are lots of ways to engineer this. We just had normal JJI joists but the FR Caber flooring.

If the ground under the floor is firm and inert you are better off with a bit more insulation and less hardcore. Blue bricks are sometimes used instead / as well as a DPC. You probably want you finished floor similar to the existing so internal doors and external thresholds are the same.

You don't want the water to weigh so much it pulls the gutter / facsia off. It can be a bit annoying if it gets used as a bird bath when you are underneath.

Really? I normally see joists, osb, firrings, OSB, vapour barrier, insulation, osb, waterproofing. How would you lap the vb around the joist ends or wall ledger if it is lapped down?

A bee brick and six swift bricks in Brighton.

I don't see an allowance for a sprinkler system, which are mandatory in Wales and would be advised anyway as you have a staircase open to the kitchen.

I think the panes have lots of barely visible spacers to keep them apart.

If the porch is not wider than the window above, you don't really need to worry about weep holes as there is not enough blockwork to cause an issue.

I have not heard of a 12 metre rule. What does it relate to?

I guess it is just much less work to fit everything from new.

It seems a shame to demolish and build from scratch but the current building does not give you much option unless you slice off the right hand end, refurb and build plot 2 relocated slightly. I have never found that replacing 1 with 2 works out moneywise but you must have done your sums. Be careful regarding CGT, CIS, VAT and CDM.

I think that is part of the pattern. Have a look at their gallery and there are a few examples similar.

I have not used this system but they specify fixing centres for all the tracks.

Lots of self build plots seem to be priced at GDV minus build cost with no profit or contingencies. If you can get £280k, sell the plot.

Good idea. I would be happy to pay so we can mix a small batch of mortar.

I have 600 x 600 20mm porcelain on adjustable pedastals. I think some brands have the head of the pedastal self levelling.

That seems good but the pallet delivery could be an issue. It is a few steps up to the slab so I will see if a ramp would work. I have contacted the seller to find out carriage costs. Thanks!

I have a project in Brighton and we are using a light grey brick. The standard building sand around here is from Nutfield quarry and is dark orange. When it is made into mortar it ends up drying to a buff / beige colour and looks awful with the brick. I tried adding some black dye to the mix but the mortar just looks like cow dung. I can get hold of rendering sand that is OK for colour but not good for mortar. I have tried a few builders merchants without success. I am after bulk bags, delivered with a hiab. Any ideas?

+1 The pile and ground beam design need to be done by an engineer.

Maybe an instant electric water heater? You could use the 12kW system boiler for heat only.

The mortar colour is important here. Do a test and leave it a week to make sure it matches. Just take out the damaged bricks and the mortar joins. It will take a while but it won't make anything unstable.

That looks like no fun to set out. I assume you got a guy with a Total Station? For tricky foundation depths it would have been better to have one person checking with a laser as you go. Hindsight I suppose. It is really annoying going back over trenches that would have been easy to get right with a bit more care and attention.

I agree with @ProDave. A 12kW boiler should be able to do that easily.

I think the large pipes are a hangback from the gravity systems with a tank in the loft.

NHBC recommend avoiding the middle 20% of the span, so if you are drilling you only need to go a bit one way or the other if you are dead centre. Max hole size for your joists is 55mm.