Mr Punter

Another vote for a thin layer of external insulation.

How about a door which is fixed shut and to be used only in emergency, plus a high level window for light and ventilation?

You should have a y and a 45, so the flow is in the right direction.

Hello and welcome. You have a fair amount of work there. You may find there is not a huge benefit in installing UFH on the first floor and loft. The heat will tend to find its way up anyway. Have you calculated your heat losses?

That probably saved a fair bit on Party Wall Surveyor fees.

I don't seem to see tackers using collated screws on site. I guess they are on price and materials are supplied by the boss.

Why don't you use them in your new house?

I am pleased they reused some of the bricks. They look really clean on the pallets.

Fit LVT in the bathrooms and there should not be an issue with cold feet. Only a problem if you have ceramic tiles.

No easy answer here. With 25mm cavity boards there is presumably not much space left. Blowing in EPS beads could cause moisture ingress especially as the outer leaf is brick and not rendered. The internal insulation will lose a fair amount of floor space. Because the cavity boards are not tightly fitted and are thin I don't think they will contribute to condensation risk. They cannot practically be removed. I would remove the dabbed plasterboard and the dabs, parge the external walls to stop air leakage, and install internal insulation. There is no point in doing anything the the first floor floors as they are internal to the heated / insulated envelope. Loft insulation is the easy win. Make sure there is still airflow from outside into the loft. You may need to add some extra ventilation via vent tiles.

If it is a planning condition and you breach it and someone complains you will get a visit from enforcement and possibly a breach of condition notice. If you continue to breach they can take you to court.

Demolish and rebuild may be best.

Howdens are OK but a PITA to deal with.

It seems to deteriorate when exposed to the weather.

On clay I would use Terram ono. Stops the aggregate getting mixed up with the clay.

No. It is no concern of yours how much profit or loss your contractor makes on the job. If the work done and the materials used are of an acceptable standard just pay what you owe. It really sounds to me like you want to find an excuse to chip the price.

No point in the membrane. It works OK as a separation layer, like if you are on clay. Flint and chalk will be good as long as the chalk is not too putty-like.

Yes, it is OK.

It all looks very neat and tidy. I like the hoppers. Did you struggle to keep up with the concrete wagon and time allowed?

Roofing does not always need a high level of skill. He should be fine. Have Building Control inspected any of the work?

Not all. Some can be hook fixed.

If you have a towel radiator in each bathroom it will give plenty of heat for the bedrooms. The UFH on the first floor is money wasted.

Can you get a perforated pipe in there? At the lowest part, could you have an outlet to surface water drain or soakaway?

Why not consider hook fixing? They are much more secure and the slates won't rattle in the wind.

I am no expert but Mitsubishi and Daikin are well thought of.