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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Hi Reece Stop beads should work for you.
  2. Fire resistant board, like Promat, Glasroc, Supalux, cement boards etc.
  3. I may have misunderstood but I thought that screwing fire board onto the side of the joists would mean that the joists were no longer flammable and the 60mm clearance would not apply. You would end up with about 40mm between the flue and the fire board at the tightest point.
  4. Could you get a piece of 10mm fireboard on the side of the joists where the flue goes up?
  5. Should you have an access fitting at the base of the stack for rodding?
  6. The cold tarmac never seems to set but will stick to shoes so it gets tracked through the house.
  7. If you have a lot to buy, get a list together and send it out to several merchants.
  8. The project I am working on at the moment which is about 175m2 has fees and service connections working out at £228/m2, so £40k with nothing much to show for it! The watertight shell was about an additional £850/m2, so £1078/m2 total but with me project managing. It will be the same again to finish it.
  9. It really depends on the loads above, but 140mm high will be a lot stronger. You need to get the engineer or the lintel people to confirm.
  10. You need to push back and tell them that you require a 63mm unmetered supply for sprinkler systems. You can do some tests to establish the rates actually required.
  11. It is well worth double checking the water main as it is a lot easier to have, say a 63mm dedicated fire supply than to mess around with tanks and pumps.
  12. If the information is on the drawings you can just send these out. Lots of bricklayers are labour only. Send out plans, elevations, Structural Engineers drawings and notes, specification and lintel schedule.
  13. I am afraid the ramp to the left looks like it may not comply. It seems to rise at about 150mm over about 1200mm, so about 1 in 8.
  14. 110mm is standard and cheap, fittings are easy to come by and easy to clear / rod. Why do you want smaller?
  15. Bear in mind you may have doormats or matwells.
  16. Could you leave the ceiling till later and fit fluffy from underneath?
  17. I am surprised to see you using timber studs @nod. I thought you were a convert to metal?
  18. I am not keen on 9mm boards. 12 or 15 is better. The cold spots from screws will be non-existent. Use a plasterboard lifter to get the boards in place.
  19. Another vote for temporary stairs. Make sure they are reasonably sturdy.
  20. If it is a party wall you have a right to enclose it on your side and use the party wall as part of your structure. Yes, may need to serve notices if you need to cut into the wall or raise the height, but check very carefully that this is the case before you serve the notices as once the process begins it is difficult to stop. You could suggest a sweetener to the neighbour, such as cash payment, should they consent to the works in the notice. They will also need to be satisfied that the works are fully insured.
  21. Same as any foundation. 100mm shingle bed, then shingle to crown of pipe, backfill with selected dug material or imported fill.
  22. What is the purpose of the proposed membrane? Is it a Nudura standard detail?
  23. Steel frame will probably be the best option. It could be erected with a lorry mounted hiab. Is there decent access?
  24. Why not membrane tight to the walls, then batten?
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