Mr Punter

The water should not get that far. The ACO should keep 99% away but would be better nearer the door. The bit of marble? outside looks quite high. Can we see a picture from outside? Is the bottom of the frame sealed?

Agree with @SimonD regarding being antagonistic. Make your case for approval, citing planning policies to support it. Address each of the 4 proposed refusal grounds in order and how your scheme responds to them. Ground 1 (design and form out of character, failing to enhance the landscape) is subjective and there are should be several planning policies to briefly cite that will support your approach. Ground 2 (loss of non-designated heritage asset) is not dissimilar to 1 but references different policies. Again there should be enough about your scheme to outweigh this. Make the point that without viable redevelopment the existing building will be lost to decay. Ground 3 (car use / sustainability) emphasise the sustainable features of the scheme, work from home, knit your own yoghurt etc. Regarding ground 4 (ecology), don't use the phrase "patently false". Instead state that the report was submitted on xxx and you can provide copies if required. Have copies with you for inspection. Don't try to 'prove' that the planners have made errors. They are just doing a not particularly well paid job. Perhaps redraft, maybe using ChatGPT.

Yes it was 3.5 m3/h.m2. These are often extrapolated from a couple of tests. The door threshold looks really poor and was possibly never detailed correctly. Velfac windows have the glass on the very outside of the system so the glass cannot be placed in the insulation zone on a cavity wall. They require very careful and sometime awkward detailing to work well. Plasterboard on dabs is nice and easy to do but useless unless the surface you are fixing to has no outside air. So not blockwork or any holes through to the outside that are not 100% sealed (which they won't be). The "We will put a continuous ribbon of plasterboard adhesive around the perimeter of the boards" never ever happens.

It could rust fairly quickly if not galv and do not want that bleeding down the cladding. Or use copper, ali or zinc.

It is difficult to measure as you often have joists, OSB, firrings, OSB, VCL, insulation, OSB, waterproofing.

I wonder if you could get some EPS beads installed? If you don't get any water under the floor it could be that the insulation will give lots more benefit than the risk of lack of sub floor ventilation.

It sounds OK in theory. The beams are normally deeper than the blocks, so you need to stop air flowing between the insulation sheets and the blocks. Is there concrete blinding to work off?

Try a few and find out their lead times.

Yes the trusses, noggins, rim boards and all the timber frame members.

I would not suggest adding mineral wool because, with an unknown amount of insulation on top, you risk creating condensation, mould and rot. If it is really cold, strip the roof covering, add more insulation and new membrane.

You are wasting your energy focusing on section sizes. Get a design and layout that works for you and will be acceptable to the planners. Get a good structural engineer to design the foundations and structure. Make sure you plan for decent airtightness and insulation.

As it is only for storage I would wait at least 6 months before doing anything. The timber will shrink across the grain as it dries and this can cause cracking.

I don't think your MVHR will do much for the condensation. Dehumidifiers are the way. Plumb them into a waste if you can so you don't need to mess around emptying them. If you are around during the day, switch off the dehumidifiers and open doors and windows. Obviously a cold and pissing wet winter means it will take a while to dry.

Best to ask the planners. It may be just doing the dropped curb or the foundations for the garage. It does not look controversial so they may be easy going about it.

I have not seen this added to plaster before, just cement based mixes.

cts = centres, so 100mm apart. You can get the links fabricated as you will need a fair few.

Lots of the self builders on here have MVHR - whole house ventilation systems. No trickle vent needed but a fair bit of messing to install.

The wall plate is not strictly a structural member. I would think that if it is well fixed down either side of the notch and the notch leaves a reasonable amount of meat in the wall plate there should not be an issue.

Lots of people confuse planning consent and building regs. Not surprising as they are both to do with building works and are normally dealt with by the council. At least they have confirmed that they won't take action as you have ceased works.

If it is heavy mesh and 2 layers splice can be easier. When you have 4 sheets meeting mesh overlaps can get congested. Get the tie wires with the loops on the end and a tying tool. Thin blade on a 4" grinder. Get the splice bars cut to size.

I think it would be helpful if @PXR5 posted the anonymised text of the email from BC so it is clear what they have requested and why.

You do not normally require Building Regulations approval for a retaining wall unless it is supporting foundations or a structure or it is near a road or footpath.

Can you explain to BC that the firm has gone belly up and ask for their suggestions / help?

I would set it forward a fair bit. Ours has 65mm of worktop at the front, 140mm at the back. Too close to the back and you won't be able to clean around the tap base and fitting the tap will be a pain. Also you will have to lean over more. Mastic before you fit the tap.

If you want tiles or paving you need to get rid of the vegetation and soil, build a wall around the proposed perimeter, fill with hardcore compacted in layers, top with 100mm MOT then lay your slabs. Have a look at https://www.pavingexpert.com/.