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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Mr Punter
    They are FO walls there. Wall 1 is a full 2 storeys high!
  2. Mr Punter
    I have just had some horizontal lead flashing done on brick. They used Flashpoint sealant in the gap at the top of the lead. Looked fine to me!
  3. Mr Punter
    WHAT??? Did you get a design stage SAP? You will need it for Building regs. 50mm Kingspan will not be acceptable. This may have been OK 20 years ago.
  4. Mr Punter
    I would not worry about the rest of the block, just your own flat and possibly the neighbour's. A Building Surveyor would be able to visit, inspect and produce a specific defect report on the probable cause of the damp. Cost about £400.
  5. Mr Punter
    It does not look like overkill. A friend did some gabions in his garden. They take up a lot more room than RC and need to be battered or stepped back. They are best filled by hand, which is labour intensive.
  6. Mr Punter
    Often mould is caused by lack of ventilation warm moist air condensing on cooler surfaces. If you dry your clothes indoors, get a dehumidifier and run it until the clothes are completely dry.
  7. Mr Punter
    Could scrap the UFH upstairs and just have towel radiators. Once you know you heat losses and DHW requirements you can work out system sizes and costs.
  8. Mr Punter
    Yes. Be polite in your dealings and send the information requested promptly. If you are unsure what they are requesting, just ask. It is standard to request BC approval and Risk Assessments and Method Statements (RAMS) from the builder. For your work, this may be, for example, detailing how the structure will be safely supported and the new beams installed.
  9. Mr Punter
    You don't need to connect into an existing manhole, you can connect anywhere along the line. If the pipe is fairly large you can connect using a saddle but you may need a new manhole. How close is the sewer at is nearest point?
  10. Mr Punter
    There may be room behind the dabs to push the cables through. Could be simple, could be a pain. Try one and see!
  11. Mr Punter
    Architect fees can be a bit steep sometimes but I can see there is a fair amount of overhead, especially for ongoing training, bidding, schmoozing, premises, advertising etc. Lots of non-billable time there. I don't know many rich architects, but lots of comfortably rich vets, dentists, lawyers, surveyors etc.
  12. Mr Punter
    Some electric accessories have a lip around the edge that may cover this. Otherwise, could you get the backboxes out without too much damage and replace with shallower ones?
  13. Mr Punter
    I have used Marmox where we have a single storey element abutting 3 storey, so they are on the steel beam. I think they are better at stopping side-to-side cold bridges than up / down, as they have the concrete type vertical cylinders, but better than nothing.
  14. Mr Punter
    I knew the title would attract @Pocster.
  15. Mr Punter
    The reason MVHR has condensate is because the exhaust air is cooled as it passes through the unit. If this is just a normal extract and the ducting is inside there will not be an issue. It can run up, down, left and right. It is only when it approaches the outside that it will possibly cool enough for condensation to be an issue.
  16. Mr Punter
    I tried it with the REB speed regulator but it tended to stall. I just use it on full as it is very quiet. Just on/off wall switch. Reducer either side.
  17. Mr Punter
    I have a TD 800/200 mounted in a store room on the roof terrace and connected to a hood above the cooker with 6" duct. It can extract 300l/s and is really quiet.
  18. Mr Punter
    I am interested to know how you get on with this. CLT and insulated panels are more often used in larger commercial and community buildings. Please let us know how you progress with this and best of luck.
  19. Mr Punter
    Bear in mind that the property will be more expensive to insure and difficult to mortgage an sell on.
  20. Mr Punter
    You need to remove the horizontal timber and install a dpc tray.
  21. Mr Punter
    Hi Reece Stop beads should work for you.
  22. Mr Punter
    Fire resistant board, like Promat, Glasroc, Supalux, cement boards etc.
  23. Mr Punter
    I may have misunderstood but I thought that screwing fire board onto the side of the joists would mean that the joists were no longer flammable and the 60mm clearance would not apply. You would end up with about 40mm between the flue and the fire board at the tightest point.
  24. Mr Punter
    Could you get a piece of 10mm fireboard on the side of the joists where the flue goes up?
  25. Mr Punter
    Should you have an access fitting at the base of the stack for rodding?
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