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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Mr Punter
    If you want to render below dpc, the form seems to be bell cast bead above, stop bead below. even a 2mm gap will be enough as water does not jump.
  2. Mr Punter
    All your exposed brickwork above ground should be laid to line and level, as it will be visible. There is no problem with stepping the dpc up or down.
  3. Mr Punter
    Plasterboard and MDF architrave run down to the floor in a bathroom often get ruined as soon as there is any leak or spill. Trouble is it is easier just to stand it on the floor and fix it, rater than chock it up.
  4. Mr Punter
    You need your dpc to be 150mm min above finished external ground level. The render can go on above dpc level. Put a bell cast bead at the bottom of the render and it will give you a nice straight line and a small kick at the base. I am a fan of engineering brick for 3 courses below dpc.
  5. Mr Punter
    Class F is flammable. Probably OK if plasterboarded and all lights / sockets /penetrations are fire rated / fitted with intumescent. Often manufacturers of flammable building materials claim a fire rating for a complete construction rather than the product alone. Lots of breather papers, membranes, multi foil insulation etc are also class F.
  6. Mr Punter
    I am a small (<14 units) developer and the survey does not work for me so could not complete it. Our current project has triple glazing, terraced housing, good thermal and sound insulation and EV charge points, but this does not hit any of the buttons.
  7. Mr Punter
    I have had Thermolites rendered. They applied Rendaid first. I think you can also just make them very wet.
  8. Mr Punter
    The boards will shrink across their width in a while, so the pooling will not be significant or long term.
  9. Mr Punter
    Looks pretty crazy, but if one of the layers is in a single piece I doubt it will make a great difference. The gaps seem fairly small. Liking the mixture of brands (Kingspan & Recticel?) If it is like this for more than 15% I would say no good. On the upside they have reduced the amount going to landfill.
  10. Mr Punter
    It looks like they persuaded the Inspectorate that they submitted on time and it got held up, and they were given the benefit of the doubt. The Inspectorate take ages in determining sometimes, despite what they claim.
  11. Mr Punter
    Depends on your soil and where you are located. Crushed concrete is normally cheap. If the sub soil is crappy, strip topsoil then try a layer of terram, then 300mm crushed. If your groundworker or aggregate supplier is local they will best advise.
  12. Mr Punter
    The insulating material is a grey coloured foam.
  13. Mr Punter
    I had some 3g Velux fitted with the insulating collars. They seem a good design. For the difference between 1.0 and 0.8 over a small area I doubt it would be worth bothering with any better. Also, the 2070 code you quoted is for double glazed. The 2066 is the 3g.
  14. Mr Punter
    Chop it down and move the handle so you only have 2 sections.
  15. Mr Punter
    Lift up the breather paper, tuck up and staple some 225mm DPC to the sheathing and drape over the horizontal batten. Even without weep holes, any water will be trapped between the render board and the DPC and will eventually find its way down the sides.
  16. Mr Punter
    velux
  17. Mr Punter
    Dry fit the window so that it is packed level with fixing straps attached, then remove it. With some windows you can also add the tape after the window is installed as per Jamie's method. In warm weather keep the compriband in the fridge. Get the right width for the gap you are aiming to fill. It can expand a lot but if it expands beyond the rated range it will be less effective at sealing. One side is self adhesive with peel off backing and you can stick either to the frame or the opening. If you go round the corner of the frame or opening, introduce a bit of slack. Do not stretch the tape.
  18. Mr Punter
    I have used Simply Bamboo. The flooring was fine. We used strand woven. Tough as old boots. Get plenty of jigsaw blades for cutting details, and a spare blade for the chopsaw.
  19. Mr Punter
    Fermacell can go soft and and mouldy if it gets wet. You would need their or others cement based boards if you are using it as a direct cladding or render backer board. Fermacell is gypsum based and has BBA as external sheathing, but it cannot be exposed to the weather. Why not just have OSB sheathing, breather paper, vertiical battens to create 25mm cavity, then render carrier board or brick slips? I also like some of the fibre cement plank cladding systems like Hardie.
  20. Mr Punter
    Trouble is there is a ventilated void underneath the beam and block.
  21. Mr Punter
    No it won't. Polarwall is just concrete between 2 sheets of 50mm XPS, so the concrete will connect the foundation and the floor / wall. Also, the vented void means outside air to the underside of the floor. Using it for a single course, getting it perfectly level and filling with concrete will be a real PITA and pretty expensive.
  22. Mr Punter
    Why are you using the Polarwall below ground? Why not just us concrete blocks? I assume the void is vented, so you won't gain from insulation.
  23. Mr Punter
    If the outside won't be visible can you kango a bigger hole in the wall from outside so you can get to the back of the pipe, then foam / make good when complete?
  24. Mr Punter
    8Ball is looking at a mixed flow fan, which should be fine.
  25. Mr Punter
    Standard 42 degree, 900 wide 240 going with half landing works fine for domestic. Much wider and you need handrail both sides. Half landing gives a rest point and prevents top-to-bottom fall. I prefer carpet both for safety and sound.
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