Mr Punter

Can I just mention that this is my favourite topic title in a while...

I am always keen on photos. How much concrete did you have and how big a queue of traffic / rage did you generate?

I like the breakfast bar. Is it stone / quartz? Every kitchen = row of chipboard boxes lashed to the wall.

Instead of the single storey lean-to, If you move the wall back by 1 - 1.5m on both floors the difference in cost will be minimal and the LPA may accept this as a minor amendment. It also means you will not have to provide support for the upstairs storey, which would likely be tricky otherwise. There will still be some visual relief in the rear elevation but the remaining wall will not impede your view of the garden so much.

There are tax implications in doing as you suggest and unless you are an experienced developer I would suggest selling the plot for house B and using the tax free proceeds either to build the proposed new house or to live mortgage free.

If the steels are semi exposed I would galvanise.

The proposal looks fine as it will vent under the blocks and you can it the vent on the beam DPC. Do you have any vents where the beams run parallel?

We just had some meters fitted and they didn't even wire our tails in but they did wire in to a 100A breaker for us to connect to. Better than having to remove the main fuse.

It looks like it may be more suitable for commercial applications with grid suspended ceilings.

Our local BM no longer stocks the taps with the built in check valves as he reckoned they were prone to splitting when / if they froze. We just put the check valve inside the building.

The warranty providers bring nothing to the party. If your mortgage firm will accept, try professionalconsultantscertificate.com or any other provider of professional consultants certificate. For a conversion we did they were a fifth of NHBC. Probably half for new build.

We have used 15mm Knauf Soundshield Plus in a recent development. You will only need one layer. It is a lot tougher than normal plasterboard - a good compromise between p/board and Fermacell.

The gaps should be fine. Good to see that you have a stagger at the door heads which should reduce the risk of cracking. What render are you using?

Does it have building regs and a structural warranty? If so, reasonable cost to complete plus 25%, if not 100k.

You could use timber to support the steel but I doubt you could justify combining timber and masonry, as even if the timber shrinks by 1mm, the masonry will be carrying all the load.

STILLWATER KILLEARN FISHERY KILLEARN G63 9QW Sold 2013-05-30 Price £1100000 Sale type & deed codes DW 11

It is recommended that you have a breather membrane to protect the Celotex.

Pointing gun and let it go off a bit before tooling.

I would not pay up front unless it was for goods that he has to order and pay for in advance. Most builders have accounts with merchants. Have you looked at their work and spoken to customers? Lots of builders have cashflow issues but there is no reason that you should act as their lender.

I am not a fan of handleless - just a gimmick and really impractical. I have recently bought from DIY Kitchen - Innova - made in England and good quality rigid construction,, good value and range of cabinet sizes. They do rounded cupboards and soft close. Kitchen units = row of chipboard boxes. There is little difference in quality. Most decent ones use the same chipboard, construction, hinges, drawer runners, wirework etc. Think through what will work for you and do not be too much of a slave to fashion.

Yes but I was interested in @Ferdinand 's comment that the Empire State was 16 month start to finish.

Good call @ryder72. Yes the schoolboy error was easy to spot. Hardly fatal though.

I am really looking forward to seeing how this progresses and hope that this forum provides lots of useful help and guidance.

Consider filling the void with LECA expanded clay beads and top with 150mm concrete.

Use 50mm pir and perhaps insulated plasterboard?