Mr Punter

I have used Ever Build Lumberjack 650 14kg Flexible Wood Flooring Adhesive at £59 per tub. Lay 3 or four widths of floor dry and do any required cuts. Mark with a pencil the edge of the last boards. Take up the planks and stack them behind.you. The tub contains 2 bags of adhesive. Just cut the corner of the bag and carefully squeeze out and then spread over the area with a notched trowel. Do not go over the line you have marked. Spread with great care to make any mess. You will get used to squeezing out just the right amount which will make spreading easier. Our chippie does this without gloves and does not have any adhesive on his hands or on the face of the flooring by the end of the day. Do not pour the adhesive into the tub as it will set around it. The bags prevent any waste. When I have used tubs in the past, I end up with over a kilo of adhesive setting round the edge and in the bottom, as well as stringy bits and lumps which make spreading more tricky.

I have not heard of self tapping coach bolts. Can you not use threaded bar and resin? You may have to abandon some holes if you don't hit the concrete. If you are using joist hangers you will probably need to use the square twist nails as screws do not normally meet the requirement of manufacturers.

I think they could be grouted

I have some of the Celotex CF5000 and it has proper aluminium facings both sides. It goes grey after contact with cement.

I am not sure this works as a motto.

The TF firm on the current project used Trad Deck. PITA to install, especially if there are smaller rooms and corridors.

If you have consent for an internal meter, UKPN come and mount a service head onto a small piece of 10mm chipboard that they supply. Once you have at least 2 circuits wired and tested you can then get your electricity supplier to install a meter and liven the fuse board.

I once had an Aga. Total pain. Very high running costs and was almost impossible to control. At just the point where you want to get all the veg boiling and crisp up the roast potatoes and crackling it has lost the will to cook. Mine was gas. Hopeless.

If the rafters are 600 centres, use 25 x 50 batten. Maybe use it in any case.

It is not ideal but will not be an issue as it is short term. Sweep out any big puddles on the floors. Try to get the roof on ASAP.

For a first attempt I would say they have really taken the brief on board and produced something clean and uncluttered.

One of your chambers seems to have 2 outlets to to connections to the main run. Choose one or the other. If the invert is more than 600mm you may as well use a larger chamber. They are cheap if you shop around. You also seem to have a run under the corner of the building

Part E is mostly for flats and terrace housing. Not applicable for you.

Yes, you need to watch the install like a hawk and I suspect that only those like Declan know this. I was fairly vigilant but with 8 sub contract bricklayers who changed each day it was impossible to even get the boards fitted the right way up most of the time and if they were called on it they were incredulous.

After you get your valuation, if you think there is even the smallest likelihood that you could be considered for a lower band, appeal and give evidence of any nearby / similar-ish properties which have a lower band. They will often move it down without too much question.

How about 100mm rendered block, 100mm cavity with Celotex CF5000, 100mm block or lightweight block? This is good for flood resilience and not bad for SAP calcs.

If you are outside a conservation area and the elevation is not overlooked I would save the money as the changes are trivial.

The back wall could be concrete, blockwork, ICF or steel. You need an engineer to design this. You need to carefully consider waterproofing and insulation, as well as structure. Discuss your proposals early on with your warranty provider.

It is normally called SAP calcs for new build. Very cheap to get done by others, so may not be worth your time training and registering.

Can you find out about services from the seller of a neighbour? Also, have they done a ground investigation to establish what foundation type you are looking at?

Google found http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quinn-Cement-25kg-bag-039-s-cheap-cheap-cheap-/141014716502 at £2.99

I really like the friction stays on the Rationel French doors, so you can leave them open as much / little as you like.

Another developer I know bought a pub, got consent to convert to flats, also had a house plot next to it. Made loads. Bought another pub. Planning refused and now is trying to make it work as serviced rooms on upper floors, storage on ground floor. May have to take his medicine on that one. Pub to resi is far from a given now.

Home page of the Durisol website: "Unlike other ICF wall form units, there is no need prop the walls during construction as the weight of the blocks holds them in place." Hmm

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-40655163 Can make your walls smell of cat urine and rotten animals. A heady mix...