Mr Punter

OK but I would not cut into the neighbours sewer line - just put in a new IC and connect this to the brick IC

It should be fine if you add in the extra chamber before the final one. Who is Bb?

That is because it is shown from the outside in plan view, where the glass covers most of the frame. If you look at the sections it is fairly clear and the dimensions are to the outside of the frame and the frame covers the upstands. On the basis that you need some more windows, find out the MINIMUM they are prepared to charge, then perhaps do a letter before action saying what you are prepared to accept. That will put you in better standing at Court, as you have made a reasonable attempt to negotiate a fair settlement. Keep all correspondence civil.

Did they send a dimensioned drawing for each window? The drawing you posted earlier gives a dimension showing the overall window size. If you agreed that these were correct you may be on sticky ground.

Did you sign the drawings? If so, just try to negotiate. If not, claim that they should have worked to the structural opening sizes supplied by you and that you considered that the drawings they sent were only indicative of a standard detail and were not being relied upon for finished window sizes.

Can you move the rising main over to the left, then have a 45 degree bend on either side of new 450mm plastic chamber to feed into the brick chamber? Admitted that the length of gravity pipe is short but the new chamber and change of direction should attenuate the flow. I have marked on the attached. High Croft Bungalow b regs-005M.pdf

Looks a nice unit for a Crossfit. I have never heard of Armstead paint. What type of paint is the top coat?

Does not sound man enough to me, but as you already have it you may as well give it a go. Try a half load in the mixer at first. Don't turn the mixer off when it is fully loaded or you may not get it started again!

The coverage looks thin compared to @RandAbuild above. Are you doing the upper bits off a tower? Will you have one spraying and one pushing? (Obvs a H&S no-no, but so much simpler, especially with a smooth floor)

I think you will need some insulation to stop the moisture from the warm air in the house condensing on the upstands.

Crikey @Vijay what size footprint? Maybe an optical illusion, but does it span several post codes?

Just Googled and 8m3 concrete lorry = 33 tonnes, 6m3 = 26 tonnes. More than I thought. As far as road damage goes, maybe you are overthinking this.

For when the replacements are arranged, the fitting tolerance between the inner pane and the upstand looks very tight. Also the upstands do not look very wide - 70mm? Are they insulated?

Maybe it is the case that if you have quality permanent floor finish, lay throughout. I am thinking of removing a unit so the worktop can overhang a bit at the end of a peninsular giving more seating. Not something that would be possible had we just floored up to the units...

Sorry about the cock-up. Whose plans did they base their drawing on? I would be really interested to see a proper section, showing the concrete, insulation, waterproofing, upstand and surface finish if you have such a thing? Perhaps you could at least get the supplier to make the replacements at the same cost as the originals - even though they will be a fair bit bigger?

??? Never heard of it. Care to translate for us Southerners?

Always floor throughout. Mastic seal floor edges to plasterboard before skirting if pos. It means that if you get a leak, it won't track under the floor and you will notice it quicker. Also appliances will be easy to move in and out without a lip to get over.

Maybe the designer has a stake in an aluminium coping fabricator?

Am I looking at the top of a gable wall? Why not just add some bricks or flat blocks on top where there is a gap?

I think it is Villeroy and Boch

We have very shallow trays and have screwed 18mm ply on the shower room floors, finished with LVT, so they are level with adjacent oak floors and the trays are only about 30mm higher.

That's the effect of the stiffeners!

To be clear, as @PeterW pointed out, the Building regs have changed (since the edition I was referencing!) and you no longer have to complete the spreadsheet, just confirm that none of the fittings exceed the values in table 2.1. You don't even need to know what is in table 2.1, just confirm.

You can build a garage under PD rights (if you have them) without the need for planning permission.

It will go after a while.