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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Mr Punter
    Dig it all as shallow as possible with a fall of 1:40 to 1:60 connected to a chamber near the boundary of your property, then you can connect to the sewer at any gradient you like as long as it is greater than 1:60. So you may be at, say 600 invert at your last chamber and drop down from there to the 2.5m on the foul drain, where you may have a radiant like 1:1. I think with surface water you may even be allowed to connect in with an internal backdrop but you would need to check.
  2. Mr Punter
    Our EA flood level - on the river bank - is 1:100 years plus 300mm.
  3. Mr Punter
    And the guidance accords with this: “Generally, the aim should be to discharge surface run off as high up the following hierarchy of drainage options as reasonably practicable: 1. into the ground (infiltration); 2. to a surface water body; 3. to a surface water sewer, highway drain, or another drainage system; 4. to a combined sewer.”
  4. Mr Punter
    Looking at @vivienz MBC house in it looks like they have the Smartply passive boards plus tape on the inside.
  5. Mr Punter
    The PD rights can also be removed via an Article 4 direction by the LPA which can cover lots of properties but normally in conservation areas etc.
  6. Mr Punter
    I am not surprised. How is the land currently drained? Having surface water discharging into combined or, worse, foul sewers, is not considered the way forward re SUDs, flooding, etc.
  7. Mr Punter
    As you just have a pool and a gym you would not need to consider acoustic issues. Although the gym could, in future, be used as a bedroom, it looks unlikely and the regs only take account of the current usage. An example is that you will need a heat detector in a kitchen, but if it were to become a lounge or bedroom you may need a smoke detector.
  8. Mr Punter
    Also, you may find it better to just do the sewer connection and a new inspection chamber on your site and do the rest when or after you do the foundations.
  9. Mr Punter
    There is nothing to stop you designing it yourself as long as it complies with building regs. The attenuation tank is more likely to be Building Control or the sewerage undertaker who decides. £1350 sounds steep so def shop around.
  10. Mr Punter
    Like most materials (and people), this will weather and dull with age.
  11. Mr Punter
    Don't use steel as it will rust
  12. Mr Punter
    Just do as suggested earlier
  13. Mr Punter
    I am sure they will be fine. Looks like a large building. How big is the footprint?
  14. Mr Punter

    After the rain

    Mr Punter commented on vivienz's blog entry in Blackmore House

    Our concrete guy has a party trick when it has rained on a finished slab he puts a 20p piece in the deepest looking puddle and the water doesn't cover it. I sure surface tension plays a part but still quite impressive.
  15. Mr Punter
    Agreed as we once had an issue with a staircase opening built to drawing and the architect offered immediately to find suitable solution at their own expense.
  16. Mr Punter
    The boys are not fans of PPE I notice.
  17. Mr Punter
    In the past we bought a site with outline consent for 3 houses with plans just showing a rectangle where each house is proposed on the site and where the access was. The final size, layout, height, elevations, materials etc were done later by our architect in a Reserved Matters application.
  18. Mr Punter
    The only downside of gluing with D4 is if you ever need to replace a section of floor - perhaps it got wet and started to rot over time - and you have web style joists, you risk damaging the joist(s) so that it may no longer be structurally OK. Also if you get any on your hands it turns them black and takes a couple of days to come off.
  19. Mr Punter
    Why is the flashing dependant on the block paving? I thought you found that the block paving is what introduced the leak... I think you need to look at having a completely waterproof contiguous external skin - all upstands, glazing and flashings in place, thoroughly tested, then do the paving.
  20. Mr Punter
    We only put the air bricks first on a project with Beamshield special insulation blocks that wrapped underneath the floor beams and I understood that external brickwork would get in the way. We put lintels over the vent gaps on the inner leaf.
  21. Mr Punter
    I would not be keen in taking the cedar cladding so close to the ground. I think it would be worth getting this priced in timber frame as it lends itself well to the type of proposed cladding. You could still use the portal frame to support your roof which could be done in large cassettes.
  22. Mr Punter
    You can leave a space of 325mm for the vents on the inner leaf rather than building them in tight, so they can be moved side to side to fit the brickwork.
  23. Mr Punter
    Can you leave a wider gap on the inner leaf so you have a bit of room for adjustment?
  24. Mr Punter
    Was the window designed for flush installation? If so, I can't see why the paving would make any difference. Is this just on one window? I assume they need to be flush so you can park on them. I would want the frame / upstand / glazing to be completely waterproof, so I could aim a jetwash at it from any angle without any water getting in, then do the paving when you are happy.
  25. Mr Punter
    If you have got loads to do, you could hire a masonry saw. We used one to cut brick halves and a pack of bricks was quick to cut neatly. We shaved a bit off some blocks too to get the walls to the right height. Better for your back as there is less bending.
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