Mr Punter

I am also a fan of combis and was explaining why I did not fit one. Your advice was much appreciated. There is currently no timer on the immersion so the proposed test would be tricky. Cooking is electric oven and gas hob. There are 4 in the household. From what you say about the downside of leaving the boiler switched off, I will try the twice daily blast on the boiler if I can get the timer to do what I want it to.

The boiler is on level 4 in a roofspace plant room, with kitchen on level 3, bathrooms on levels 1 and 2. The hot water tank is on level 1. The only other option for the boiler was level 0 and I did not want to wait an age for hot water.

I just had a look and it is a slimline Joule Cyclone Indirect. Only C rated, but it needed to be shoehorned into a small cupboard.

The regs are different in Wales. For example they require sprinklers to meet Part B. Not sure about foundations though.

In answer to the OP, if the plot is near your current house then keeping the house and just moving once would be a lot less disruptive and may even be cheaper if you can get the figures to work. One potential issue is that you may finish the build and are not able to sell the current house quickly / for as much as you wanted.

I know it is off topic, but can cooling the floor cause condensation?

I put it down to the hot weather.

I think 2700 to 3000 if you have the height. I prefer boarded ceiling first, then walls. Like others have said allow about 10mm at the bottom of the board so if you have a leak it does not wick. The 3000 boards are a pain to heft about. You may do better with 2400 and a cut. More tricky to plaster and decorate but far better than 2400.

You could probably get the site survey and drawings done cheaper if you shop around. If you like the type of designs the architect produces, go for stages 2 and 3 only. Just get them to do the planning drawings.

The membrane was supplied and installed by the zinc contractor. It seemed strong and the curly plastic strand layer supported the zinc about 8mm above the membrane. I am not sure what happens if the zinc is left in water but I assume not good. I can't recall the name of the membrane.

I have used a membrane underneath zinc that has a plastic layer on top a bit like Scotchbrite so if there is condensation under the zinc it won't sit in a puddle.

Great looking job. If it sinks is that down to you - as you did the base - or them?

I think that ANYTHING is better than a macerator / Saniflo. If you can get this to work with proper gravity drainage, do it. You will not regret. If the pipe is exposed to the sun you should use the black or grey stuff. If it is underground or covered use brown, but ANYTHING is better than what you have (other than crapping in your own pants).

I am very intrigued by this. I am also looking at heat reflecting film (bet they are all on a bonus, together with air con, ice creams and swimming pools!) for some south west facing glazing. It seemed fairly hot even on cold clear days earlier on. @lizzie why is your glass so "well" engineered? We have some river wall retaining glass and that is only 25.5mm laminated. Is there a consensus on what is the best supplied and fitted option for external film that does not look obvious and anyone know the cost? The development has 13 patio doors - each about 5.5m2.

I have had these fitted and while they seem to work OK be cautioned that if the house is not used for a couple of months you MUST remove the Combiphos or they will break down and clog your plumbing system.

I don't have much prospect of the extra insulation as the cupboard is very tight. I have got in mind to insulate all the pipework in the cupboard though. Time clock is definitely going to happen although it is v. tricky to programme.

I have a new four storey townhouse with a system boiler in the roof and a cylinder on the first floor. Bathrooms on first and second floor, kitchen on the third. The boiler seems to fire up a fair bit for the hot water and I wondered if it would make sense just to use the immersion in the warmer months?

I would have gone with brackets in this instance. I have used direct fix on timber frame with v small internal reveal as straps were not practical unless bent round the corners. Once the caps are fitted they look fine. Usually you will have some fixing drawings issued which you sign off.

If it is just rainscreen cladding above (tiles, rendalath, render board etc) supported on the timber frame you will not need a lintel. You need to work out how the interface of the rendalath and brickwork will be.

I have had Velfac fixed direct and via galv strap. Both work fine. The direct fix hole is plugged with a plastic cap. Looks OK imo.

Timber expands across the grain, so the issue is most tricky where you have a corner and the worktop has a wall at either end. If it is a straight run you should not have an issue.

I think it is a bit like gynaecology

Unless there is a planning requirement I would not bother. it will be expensive to achieve and perhaps more difficult to insure. A lot to strip back if there is a defect. I would be concerned about fire in this weather too.

First fix the plastic plumbing and the electrics and MVHR ducts. Do some carpentry - plasterboard noggins etc. Fix fascias and gutter and fit temporary downpipes. Properly secure the site to prevent unauthorised access.

We have just paid similar fees on a project with a build cost around £2.5m and final value of £6m. I think the quote is out by a factor greater than 4.