Mr Punter

Pedestrian or vehicle?

Once you have stripped back to the membrane I think you will probably not get too much water ingress. Then get it PROPERLY designed and detailed - including detail sections through each junction. Then post the design here for comment. Then build it to the design.

Well played! It is only a row of chipboard boxes.

I don't know of any you can drive on. I have used some plastic pedestals but they are only for pedestrian traffic. I imagine you would need a fairly hefty galv steel support system to drive over and would be £££

I suggest a liquid product so that you can easily detail around and onto the upstands.

Good luck! I saw a firm called Plykea who do ply and Formica doors, plinths and panels for Ikea Metod units. You just send them plans and they work out what you need.

Off topic but a nice job on the paving. What make is it?

A BBA approved render carrier board (such as Bluclad) fixed to vertical timber battens. You do not need an approved installer. You can then choose the render and colour at your leisure.

I have never seen these before so googled https://www.strongtie.co.uk/products/detail/slotted-z-clip/79 They are for noggins. I was expecting truss clips. Ask the designer if you need anything else (holding down straps etc).

BTW is the steel still structural or was it just temporary? It looks badly corroded.

If you have membrane on the ceiling it will need to have a fall to the walls or water will just collect and pond up there. You could just pitch a tent!

I have heard it called Mum and Dad but only blockwork.

The house looks very handsome. Compared to the flint work the rest of the job will feel easy - unless you plan on making your own clay tiles.

I think the concerns are valid. Unlike traditional formwork, with ICF you are not able to inspect the concrete as the shuttering is never removed. Why not get this priced in steel with concrete for the basement? What is the preference of the SE? I have done a basement in ICF and we used a type C waterproofing system (internal drained cavity membrane) with a pump. No complaints from the owners.

Even as is this would be a dream house for most people. Are you going to demolish entirely including foundations, or modify what is there?

OK well hopefully you have now established the cause. Before you put it all together again, can you get someone to do a proper design and spec for you to follow as winging it has not worked so far.

Hi Tim You have never self built before but have posted twice on the leading self build website promoting the same company, who I can only assume you have never used. It looks like spam and smells like spam.

Perhaps take up the paving just around the rooflight to expose the membrane.

Josef Fritzl

Very odd that consent was granted with the tree in place. Did anyone produce an arboricultural report? I think the tree has to go.

We have done similar but using coach screws, leaving 60mm plus the head of the screw to go into the wet concrete.

Yes I have read that not having a drained and ventilated cavity can lead to damp getting into the frame. I understand that in Canada they have had real problems with this several years ago known as "leaky condos" which has a Wikipedia entry https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leaky_condo_crisis

Hmm this is just one tree so unless it is of national importance I cannot see why it can't be worked around. Otherwise you can bridge over it. Don't do an application where you are short of available height as it may come back to bite you.

Are these soakers that go under the slates, with a lead flashing that gets cut into the stone and dresses down over these? If so, it is probably OK.

The pumps work at a fair rate so make sure you adjust the float switch so you do not exceed the capacity of the Klargester. You will need a high level alarm with a sounder indoors.