Mr Punter

I would go with Thermalite or Celcon as they are most widely available. Annoying to run short and be hit with a long lead time. Are you building without a cavity?

Celotex withdrew the whole 5000 range of products following Grenfell. A shame as they were better than standard foil backed PIR. You can probably use any PIR in place as the u values are not that different. You could use a thicker board on the inside of the joists to compensate if required.

I can't be much help but to say we had raking wire balustrade on a commercial stair. Must have been 2m centres and it did not flex much even if I climbed on it. You could ask the wire company to do some calcs and worst case you may need a link between a few of the longest ones to limit deflection. The 100mm sphere is supposed to represent a baby's head so you don't need to factor in excessive force.

I understand that if the soil is clay and subject to heave then the void must remain.

If you have a high or variable water table you will need to incorporate some drainage arrangement under the floor. I suggest that the concrete blinding is laid to falls. @nod did this

Have you looked at Foamglas Perinsul or similar around the edges to help with cold bridges? I think they do 140mm wide. Line it up with the bottom of the floor beams and you will still have enough room for a proper 140mm block for the sole plate to sit on (unless the sole plate can sit on the Foamglas). Incorporate some UFH pipework.

The local authority planning pages should let you see what the most recent use was. You can look up the business rates at https://www.tax.service.gov.uk/business-rates-find/search

Warm roof = insulation above structure and no need to ventilate as all structure is warm Cold roof = insulation within structure and underside of roof deck needs ventilation.

I think the holes make them easier to lay and help stop the mortar going everywhere. You can get solid ones but youstill have perps anyway

I don't know if it is different in Scotland but with building control we have the option of either a full plans submission, where sure you would submit plans including the roof covering specification or a building notice which is for smaller works where you know they will comply. In your case I would do full plans and would expect an approval or a conditional approval, where they list stuff that is non-compliant or more detail required. Once you have the plan approval, as long as you do what is on the plans you are fine.

Should be dished out like rum rations before PMQs.

In your case @andyscotland if as long as building control are OK then it is fine. Make sure the fall is adequate and the ventilation requirements are met if it is a cold roof.

With this one the manufacturer used a piece of metal as a downstand at the front of the treads to satisfy the 100mm sphere rule.

We have a gas system boiler and an unvented cylinder. The boiler is on level 4 and the cylinder is on level 1. Bathrooms are on levels 1 and 2. We have the water timed to heat up via the boiler for 1 hour twice a day. Because the plumber did not insulated the primary pipework well, the TV room on level 2, where the pipework runs across the floor, gets uncomfortably hot so we have to open the balcony door. Would I be better off just using the immersion on a timer in summer, and if so should I also look at economy 7?

I know D4 is the new standard for chipboard flooring but I quite like waterproof PVA / wood glue for the joins and D4 for the joists. Sticks well and less messy and it doesn't form a ridge or push the boards apart.. @willbish if you taped over the joints with a waterproof tape I think you could get the best part of a year out of Egger Protect.

I have looked at Basement Expert and Phil Sacre. He worked on a Grand Designs scheme in London where there was not a proper site investigation or temporary works design and consequently it was a disaster. https://www.homesandproperty.co.uk/home-garden/interiors/design-news/grand-designs-couples-dream-of-escaping-rent-trap-by-building-londons-smallest-twobedroom-house-a114956.html about 10 mins in. I think he has posted on here before.

If this had been counter battened it would have reduced the kick at the bottom. Unless they have used extra long nails it may be that those on the lower course of full slates will not have enough embedment. Also the membrane looks like it will not direct water off as it goes level / up at the end.

Good recommend as it is often the case that windows are let down by install. Ideally best to have someone do the whole job so you are not left with issues. Often I have used approved installers who are really slapdash. They send semi skilled teams who just want to screw the windows in the holes and on to the next job.

@Vijay and @willbish Leave out at least one external door threshold so you can sweep out the water after it rains. I have some big squeegees from a janitorial supplies for just that purpose. The Egger Protect lasts several months in my experience.

The JJI type joists are untreated as standard with treatment as an option. If you are using timber frame, as standard the the roof structure is untreated and the rest is as per

Did you check to make sure it dos not step in a bit inside behind the door?

You will need to establish the soil type and strength, neighbouring foundation depth (as the existing house will need underpinning) and ground water levels (as a basement that is below the water table is considerably more problematic). You may need to include contamination assessment as well. The cost of the soil survey is fairly low in the great scheme of things. You should also establish the exact location, depth, material and diameter for the sewer. You will need a Party Wall agreement or award with the neighbour. You will need a design from you architect / engineer for the upper floors as that will impact the basement design, especially the ground floor type, proposed basement waterproofing and basement to ground floor junction. You will then be able to use the soil report and architect drawings to get a price from some basement companies for the whole job so that they are the main contractor for the basement phase. I would want them to include excavation, underpinning, temporary works, drainage, welfare facilities, structural engineering, site security and all insurances so that they hand over a completed and signed off basement. Will cost plenty.

The £10,000 is only 3% of GDV although at 14% of profit it is a bit hefty. I think he may settle on £3,000 though. He would not have offered £1,000 if he did not think there was any agreement.

Further to this, perhaps write to him asking for the £10,000 and pointing out that this is as per your agreement made on xxxx that in the event that he purchases / develops / the site at xxxx he will pay you £10,000 in respect of a finders fee. If you took this to a small claims court the fee is £410. See if they come back with a better offer. I think they will.

If you think you had a proper verbal contract at £10,000 - that is a no its or buts type - then the builder should pay that to you. When was to trigger the payment - was it purchase, gaining consents or selling? Did you ever ask for the money? A verbal agreement can often be binding.