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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Get some guttering on there. Google suggested https://www.oasthousegutters.co.uk/
  2. I have not seen this type of condition attached to large estates but they are often attached to smaller schemes. What is the exact wording?
  3. The design looks good but I think the budget is way out. Did you get a proper quotation from a main contractor for £250k for the extension and renovation? If so, let them chose how they build it, just tell them the required spec (u values, air tightness etc) and let them work out how they will best achieve it. For what they are doing it seems remarkably cheap. I have looked at this and I think it will be cheaper and simpler to demolish and start again as there are almost no external walls that have been retained and any that are will require considerable works. Also need new ground and first floors and new roof structure.
  4. Another thing you could consider (not sure if it would be possible in practice) is to have the two left most switches as masters doing a whole area, say, top one for all kitchen, bottom one for everything else, then have the rest of the rows for you to play with to adjust your preferred setting should you wish.
  5. I have got a mini grid setup in the kitchen with 2 rows of 3, plus extra switches 2 way nearer the sources, so they can all be switched off when leaving the room, but it is set so the top row do the kitchen / dining / living and the bottom row do the landing and stairs. Six switches till took a while to master and I don't think I could cope with 12. I have a four storey house so the landings need to switch stair string lights, stair wall lights and landings in a logical way. We had to get the sparky back to rewire them so they all work in the same way.
  6. OK so forget the type C waterproofing, it is just the drain surcharging. Does this just serve your property or others? Do any neighbours have the same issue? Can you take a bit of the boxing off and see if there is a leaking joint? Can you get a firm to CCTV and report on the condition and direction of the drain?
  7. I once had a house with a cellar that would flood when it rained. I just use it to store non-vulnerable items. We were on clay and the water would force its way between the wall and floor. If you would be best with type C waterproofing involving drainage membranes, a perimeter channel, sumps and pumps. Expensive and disruptive but effective. You will lose a bit of floor space. I am not sure what the drainage issues are but you could fit a non-return valve. More investigation needed.
  8. I meant less sought after locations with lower house prices.
  9. This would be advantageous for those in crappy areas and bad for those in smart areas Council tax amounts by band seem fairly similar throughout the country, so each band reflects a similar house. The less well off areas would see savings of over 60% and the affluent area increases of the same amount. I cannot see it being a vote winner in London and the Home Counties. I also cannot see how it will be balanced - it looks like they will need to raise further tax elsewhere of increase the rate.
  10. There is a drive towards simplifying tax but SDLT and Council Tax are both simple and easy to collect so I don't think there is any efficiency savings with the 0.48%. It would mean a lot of time spent revaluing because the bands were quite simple and they would need to be accurate.
  11. Just spent £40k SDLT so would not be the best of luck.
  12. Nice. He recently gave an update on the lad who was working for him. Always a good read.
  13. What is your question? If you want flush floor throughout you will need to build up the lower floor. You can lose a bit of change of level via a threshold at or near a door.
  14. Easy Tiger! I don't think he was seriously suggesting shooting at the crows. It would likely damage the EPDM in any case. On that subject, a neighbour had kids who liked to play football. One morning her husband had gone to work and she cam round to our house in tears because a crow had got caught up in the football net and was very distressed. I valiantly and hastily went round to free it and it bit the hell out of my finger. Bastard!
  15. If that is a cavity wall I favour locating the window a fair way back (80mm?) so that it is mostly in line with the insulation. I cannot see cavity closers in your picture so not sure what cavity width you have?
  16. I used Russell Timber Technology a few years ago and they seemed decent value and quality. They are in Glasgow and do timber and ali clad.
  17. Hi @sean1933. Aside from the 10mm lump which may be caused by the mortar bed and lintel, I would want written confirmation from the lintel supplier / engineer that it is acceptable to land the joists on the lintel as proposed. Instead you may need to use the special masonry restraint hangers on the block/brickwork above to reduce the point loads. This would also resolve any issues with joist levels.
  18. If it is modern with cement based mortar it is probably only good for hardcore. Don't mix it with other materials as it is useful and can be easily recycled. You could leave it aside and use it for the base of the new driveway. Once it has been tracked with a large digger it will be good and stable,
  19. So not the best idea and neither the worst. How so many things are. Many of the other elements are 5*, some 4* and the basement heat concept 3*. Meanwhile there are millions of flats and houses in this country that are 1* pissing heat away and no practical solution.
  20. Yeah yeah we are all suffering in lockdown, but cut them some slack!
  21. I have a kitchen (with epic extractor) / dining with living area but with a separate living / TV room. Agree that the all in one is not for me.
  22. Posted too late in the thread...
  23. I am using a brick called Forum Smoked Branco, which is a light grey. About £1 each. Have not started but agreed with planning.
  24. I would give it all a spray of water to moisten slightly, get the foam gun nozzle right to the back and squirt in. Don't apply so much that it drips or falls out. You may need to do a few passes after the first has partly cured to make it fill properly.
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