Mr Punter

The ply orientation will not make any odds. You could use OSB if there is no ply about. Any glue will be OK or none if you don't have any. This is prob mostly a detail that get omitted but your drawing looks fine. Get on with it before someone felt and battens and you can't get to it.

There are rooflights that do not need an upstand. Velux do them now. There are cheaper ones out there too. As long as the flat roof has a decent fall you will be fine. Framing out larger openings is not too expensive. Just go for what you want and see what the cost is. It normally costs nothing to get quotes.

I am afraid you are mistaken. The approval will not contain a condition on completion as that is taken care of in the law. If you don't believe me, ask a planning officer or planning consultant. With normal planning consent (not class q) you can take as long as you like, which is what your friend did. Please get proper advice on this as it could cause massive pain later.

Often the planner's arbor person will just look at Google Earth, see there are no trees and not impose any condition. You should be able to deal with this in the Design and Access statement.

It is very important that @LSB understands that their development MUST BE COMPLETED by 7 July 2023. They are suggesting it may take 5 years plus. They may want to contact their planning department to confirm.

You offering?

I have makita dhs680. Very good.

The office to resi pd is the same. You have 3 years to complete it. Here is someone looking at a class q where the time limit has expired:

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/feb/16/home-wood-burning-biggest-cause-particle-pollution-fires

If this is under class q, the legislation states (my emphasis) "(3) Development under Class Q is permitted subject to the condition that development under Class Q(a), and under Class Q(b), if any, must be completed within a period of 3 years starting with the prior approval date." This is the law, so will not be a planning condition.

I am not convinced that planning consent would add much to the sale value and if the prospective buyer does not like the scheme they may feel they are paying extra for something they don't want.

Looks really good. The stairs are much bigger than needed. The WC could go back a bit. This would give you a more generous entrance hall. If you don't think you will use the garage much you could just exclude that bit.

Ace Ventura: The Wilderness Years

Stainless staples from a staple gun. Don't choose a windy day. Get the cladding on soon after. A lot of the better membranes have tapes to join which will also help keep it in place.

It looks like it just needs scraping back and filling with something like https://www.toolstation.com/toupret-touprelith-f-exterior-masonry-repair-filler/p35114 Is this from one of your filthy scumbag slum hovels luxury HMOs?

I understand that the real life performance of the multi foil type products is a mile away from the claimed u-values. Also, these products can often be very flammable. Get a sample and try it with a lighter.

We have slam shut doors and recently a neighbour could not get into their house, as the lock failed. The houses are in the middle of a small quiet town. After a couple of hours the locksmith gave up and we broke a rear triple glazed window. to gain access. It was float glass for the outer 2 panes and safety glass internal. We made a significant noise and it was at about 9:00PM. The next door house noticed, but nobody called the police.

If you can get enough ventilation use a 12" petrol disc cutter with hose attached to do the vertical cuts, then SDS to create the pocket. If the foundation is a decent width you could just build some 4" blockwork which would be much simpler.

The likes of Velfac and IdealCombi do trickle vents that are not visible at all outside, and quite neat inside.

If there are only 2 steels you could brush apply or just box in with plasterboard. If it is only a garage I am surprised you need to do this.

The lift and slide type doors seem to be really good with large openings / heavy sliders.

I sold the other one as well, just because I did not really have the space to store it. At the end of a project the lockup just fills up with stuff.

I had an aluminium folding scaffold tower that I could assemble myself although easier with 2. @Ferdinand has it now. I still pine for it sometimes...

I rate it as a dodgy lash-up. It should be leaning against a vertical surface. Also, the pipe surface is slippery. Finally, the ladder looks insubstantial and only good for occasional DIY access / inspection.

Looking at the site you may need to relocate the lamp post which will not be cheap. I am not sure why you have chosen to approach from there. I would think that if the base of the garage is the same level as your current hardstanding at the junction with the crossover it would be fine regarding levels. You may want to clarify with the planners in writing if you are concerned. On your elevation drawings it would have been better to represent the actual ground levels instead of / as well as a horizontal line.