Mr Punter

In a single dwelling you don't need airtightness between the floors, just between inside and outside. Air will travel up the stairs. Keeping the doors closed will help.

It looks to me like an existing driveway. Would be different if you were forming a new entrance.

They will need planning consent as there are no PD extension rights for flats. You can object to the planning but if you don't have a valid planning reason (such as overshadowing, overlooking etc) it will still be consented and will sour relations between you and the applicant. As long as there is nothing in the lease preventing the ground floor leaseholder extending their property and assuming the land is within their lease, I doubt the share of freehold will prevent it happening either.

I read it as not wanting a scruffy scumbag garage operation to litter the nearby agricultural field with scrap motors. I am not sure how that reads in planning terms. Impact on character?

No enough space. They are nogged and will have resilient bar under.

OK I suppose they may need the tension property. I am not sure why though. We always have chipboard in timber frame stuff. Does brick and block need something more special?

Yes I did not even think of that. So more joists and more material costs. Or thicker ply?

Can't you just leave them until you have screeded?

The engineer has specified 18mm ply for upper floors for this brick / block building. I asked to change for 22mm Egger Protect chipboard. They came back saying ply was needed for the overall stability strategy. I like the Egger stuff because it stays in decent shape after exposure to the elements and it is a fair bit cheaper. Are they correct or should I go back to them again?

You are best off contacting the designer / developer.

Good to hear @Mrsmedhurst. Did you do this?

What you have shown there is an 1800mm high single skin wall. It would be useful to have some drawings to work to and have a structural engineer do some plans, calcs and spec. You will need all this for a building regulations submission.

You will be able to get enough fall from the bottle gullies without any more fittings.

The consumer unit sounds fair. I think you would be OK doing the strips yourself if they wire the switch(es) and the drivers. He is probably charging a fair amount because he doesn't want to subsidise the use of a filthy sex pond hot tub.

If that is the price they quoted and you agreed to it I can't see how you have lost out. Did you get any other quotes? Best to get 3 if the job is worth more than £2k.

It is worth filling in the little bits at the top and bottom to keep the insulation fitted without gaps. You can always stuff in some mineral wool if the PIR is too fiddly.

This only applies to flats and attached dwellings. Not needed for detached. Has he been in the job for long?

Why? I have found that cooking creates a fair amount of heat and odours and a ducted extractor see to them both very well. We have one with the fan mounted externally and rigged up with 6" ducting so it is both quiet and powerful. Filtering the smells to recirculate is not efficient and means the motor has to work even harder.

Can you have interlocking tiles, or are natural slates a must have? The imitation interlocking ones will be a lot cheaper and lighter and I doubt most people would ever notice.

Change the fan to something that has proper backdraught prevention. I quite like the Icon ones but there are lots about. Beware of the external flap vents that make a horrible rattle when it is windy.

Yes, it was news to me too. Chunky looking though and clearly designed to work with the shear forces.

Never used the screws before but assuming the fit OK through the holes in the hangers they look good. Also, if you mis-nail a hanger they are tricky to move and the screws could help. I am a bit crap with a hammer and the twist nails just seem designed so I keep smacking my fingers. The screws would also be good for the concealed type hangers. Do you need the 4mm ones for a standard hanger? 5mm seems quite fat.

https://www.google.com/search?sa=N&biw=1920&bih=966&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=oak+wood+floor+reducing+strip

I would not bother with safety. If you include handrail it will need to be fully safety compliant. Planning would not want it used as a roof terrace / observation deck. The roof needs a fall of min 1:60 preferable 1:40 which is normally achieved with timber firrings. You can have it so it falls in 4 directions like the pitched roof. This will be good for the skylight as it will let it drain.

There is no bestest. Some of the felt products are very good nowadays and lots of roofing contractors are familiar with them.