Mr Punter

They are good for vertical and overhangs. Not so great for roof as it is underneath you. Hardstanding required, not soggy grass.

Do make sure it is not dependant on one app. The system should last the lifetime of the building. The app may go belly up anytime.

When I did one of these it was a Vent Axia Sentinel Kinetic Plus and I got their approved supplier to do a design. It worked OK. It was not a radial system based around manifolds and used 125mm rigid duct with tees / branches. On a small 3 storey there were only 2 main ducts vertically - for the supply and extract. Make sure there is space around the unit to remove the filters for cleaning. It can be better to have the extract vents within the shower areas. The supply vents were sited away from the door into the room, so the air travels across and under the door gap, leaving no dead areas. Avoid clashes with SVPs.

I would be very happy if this happened. As it is, the postal charges from China for these small items seem lower that those sent within the UK.

How about some ply screwed down at 150mm ctrs in the bathrooms to match the height of the engineered and LVT glued down to this?

Most / all lenders and insurers are happy with timber frame with outer leaf in brick or rendered blockwork and pitched tiled roof.

If you cast the slab unreinforced onto insulation and build up to the edges it will probably break. The insulation under slab designs here have quite complex insulation and concrete specs plus reinforcing. I would go with 100-150mm concrete cast on the type 1, 2 or courses single skin brick perimeter or 7.3n blocks if you prefer. 112mm dpc. Treated timber sole plate held down via straps. Timber framed walls. The bottom of the sole plate must be at least 150mm above finished ground level, 225mm preferred. DPM in middle, lapped to DPC. EPS floor insulation (or whatever is cheapest) in middle. Polythene sheet, 22mm T & G chipboard flooring. You could screed but probably overkill and not easy to DIY.

cottage door

I would go with the larger ones. Easier for fitting and operating blinds, external shutters, auto opening etc.

Yes but the sink lip should go over the laminate with a seal around. You can't (shouldn't) undermount a sink in chipboard tops.

Hello and welcome. There is loads of stuff on here about ASHP, partly as many have no access to mains gas. Ecodan are one of the best known brands.

If it is a laminate top and an normal inset sink the interface between sink and laminate should be watertight as part of the sink design. What sink?

You need the low level as well. It could be the over fascia type or soffit. You should be able to feel cold air coming in. Make sure the air path is not blocked by the insulation. Having almost no wind does not help. Try hanging out some wet washing in the current weather and you can see that evaporation does not happen quickly.

Architectural practices can tend to be one trick ponies.

I quite like the Neoclassical / Palladian type architecture but I can can never quite work out what makes some designs that work and some that fall short. One of the many reasons I could not be an architect!

There were not many notes on the drawing, so the contractor should have read the one that said props no more than 25mm out of plumb! How is the cross bracing normally done? Scaffold poles?

I don't think there would be an issue with fire as the section sizes look too big. As long as surface spread of flame is limited, via a simple coating, the rest would be fine. A bit like trying to start a fire using a big log v. kindling. It won't look so pretty after first fixing! I think cost is the biggest issue with CLT and it still needs protection from the elements so is just a structural inner leaf which still need insulation and rainscreen. Probably quite easy to find a fixing or 2 for cladding though!

Should be but it is not a vapour barrier. If it exists it is a vapour control layer at best. Probably loft hatch, pipes, wires and ducts penetrating. VCL is probably not contiguous with the outer leaf. The roof needs low and high level ventilation. Soffit and ridge.

Bear in mind it is abnormally cold outside and you have had a lot of building work that may have introduced a lot of water - bricklaying, plastering, decorating, screeding, concrete etc.

Ridiculously neat.

I have done similar with sleepers but just had 6m steels with 2.7m left in the ground. It was only for working area. Where there was a neighbouring structure (garage) we augered 6.0m hit and miss holes, put in a small amount of reinforcing the full depth and concreted before we excavated.

It is warm moist air getting in from the house. Probably no vapourcheck at ceiling level and maybe holes for lights etc. Is the top of the wall cavity closed off? Often have plasterboard on dabs letting air in from below.

Can anybody hazard an estimate of the difference in cost for this if you have to pay labour & materials v a standard setup? Also, what are the main benefits? I can imagine what a lash this would look like with the average site plumber!

Sometimes I have get decent prices from merchants but you just need to be on their backs all the time or they charge a stupid amount for the same thing you have already had.

If there are a fair few tiles that need replacing I would renew the lot as the new ones will not match and the old ones are probably past their useful life. With Velux if they are OK and a current size you could leave. If not, replace. Easy for me to say as it is your money.