Mr Punter

The external walls look nice and thick. The bifolds opening into the kitchen cause an obstruction. Sliders are easier to open and the lift and slide type are very good for airtightness, where bifolds are not. The TV will be much too far to view from the kitchen. The island looks a bit odd. I can't work out what the extra 600mm worktop behind the hob is for and to get to the units by the overhang you would need to move the chairs / stools. There is a lot of glazing and the room could easily overheat in the mornings. Make sure this is properly modelled and mitigated.

LVT is only about 3mm thick. Just paint on the plant room walls.

There is another thread on here where someone has had some steelwork installed that may not be to spec and other instances where there are existing structures to be assessed. For a loft they will need to know the timber sizes, roof structure and supporting walls and unless you have an architect to supply this information to the SE you may want a site visit.

If there is a loft I would suggest a Positive Input Ventilation unit as it will eliminate the mould issues.

Empty rooms are really hard to film and photograph. Just a load of blank walls, floors and doors. You can see why show homes are popular.

You have 20m2. if you allow £50/m materials and £80/m labour, plus £250 muckaway it would cost £2,850. You could do it yourself for half that. It is not like the contractor would think you live somewhere posh. If you are doing this to park in the front garden it needs to be done properly. You will need consent from the council and to install a soakaway or permeable paving, plus a dropped kerb to council spec which would need a streetworks licence plus a lot of public liability insurance.

The product looks like the silane / siloxane stuff also branded as Stormguard. The only way it adds to insulatiion is by potentially reducing the moisture content in the brickwork. I doubt the product would cost more than £1,000 for your house.

https://www.pavingexpert.com/

https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/www.persimmonhomes.com https://www.reviews.io/company-reviews/store/persimmonhomes https://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews141166.html

They look good. Can you let us know the window sizes and price, also when you bought them?

I can't see how you could tile it without the mitres, especially with a large format tile. It sounds like you will get paid.

You could hire a rough terrain pallet truck. Bear in mind it will be like pushing or pulling a small car.

Be aware that any outstanding enforcement action will be discoverable when you come to sell or even mortgage. If nobody complains you will not need to do anything.

Did she refuse to your face? What does she claim not to like?

As @Thorfun commented, a result of less than 4 and you should be asked to fit MVHR. Of course, BC won't bother even looking, as long as the as built SAP complies.

The end bearings onto the padstones look very generous but the bolted connection does not look very meaty. Get this looked at by the SE now.

MgO boards have really suffered in the last few years. For a while they seemed like a really cost effective alternative to fibre cement boards like Bluclad. While some may be OK, many were too good to be true and have now been discredited.

In England you can move in whenever you like unless there is a planning condition requiring certain works to be be done before occupation.

Make sure you have enough compound and buckets. Have one person mix and carry in the buckets of gear and another lay and smooth out. Trying to do both yourself is a mare.

One advantage of MVHR is that the ventilation in an airtight house is controlled. With trickle vents on a cold windy day there is lots of cold air entering and on a still day there may not sufficient air changes and the internal air may become stale.

I used Fermacell in a conversion of commercial to 6 flats. I would not use again. It is v. difficult and dusty to cut, sparky will hate you, not mould resistant, expensive, difficult to fix. For areas where you need extra strength, line with some OSB, then plasterboard and skim.

Funny that the staircase person did not pick it up. It looks doable to rectify, but a bit messy as it looks like you can remove no. 10 and trim back no. 11. Take your medicine now though.

There is quite a lot of controversy about claimed u values for multi foil type products but my main concern for this would be flammability. Even though flame should not penetrate your plasterboard I would not want to deal with an outbreak of fire in a concealed void. Get a sample and hold a match under it.

No mention of insulation in the link.

What on earth is that all about? The only time I have had any issues with PIR is inhaling the dust when cutting and installing. I find Rockwool even worse. The Intello does have a reassuring aesthetic though...