wozza

They snap off easily as you knock them off inline with the grout line.

Perfect level master can be used on walls, but as you have already worked out - you can use a spacer with your levelling system. This our floor using the 3mm clips and corner spacers

We have just used the Perfect Level Master (tile levelling system) on our large format floor tiles - the clips are available in 1, 2 or 3mm so they space the tile at the same time as levelling it. I am impressed and certain that the tiles would not be as level as they are if they had not been used.

You could and I don't see what harm it would do, but I doubt if the pins would split the battens. Are you going to fit a dry verge as well?.

The Polypins are ring shank so a pita to get out if you bend one or hit something like a screw or nail. I would also consider / try using a length of J trim along the wall if it will fit (normally for soffit boards) to get a nice finish against the brick.

We had our last one from Ebay

I made my own from a plastic container that previously held mini blueberry muffins It worked very well.

The blue / green corrosion is caused by using too much Flux and /or not cleaning the Flux off after sweating the joint up - Lazy Plumber.

My new CU (Hager Design 50) has one fitted ?

Has anyone used or can recommend Grout sealer? We have used Tilemaster 3000 grout in our shower - the chap at the tile shop recopmmended a grout sealer as well. Any experience or thoughts?

Has anyone got any experience of tile movement joints. We need one in our soon to be tiled extension due to the size of the area, has anyone used them or even made their own? (making your own was suggested by a tile store - using trim and grout colour matched silicon) Thanks, Wozza.

We have 2 stone resin trays that we recently fitted, one is 800 x 1700 and the other is 900 x 1700 - I personally think 700mm wide is a bit tight. They are made by Traymate UK - they are 25mm thick. They are nice trays - two things I didnt like - they come with a Wirquin swirl waste - I swapped them for McAlpine wastes and we could not find anyone who would supply their glass panels (we were not local enough) so we went with 10mm Kudos glass panels.

Sorry but in my opinion a true test of how a company operates is how they perform first time round, this is not a faulty product or something that has been damaged - why was such poor workmanship allowed to be dispatched to a customer. I am not interested in ripping them to bits - I will just avoid them.

You can get rubber / plastic / aluminium strips that fit across the floor to provide a sealing edge. Search google for garage door seals. https://www.garadry.com/blogs/news/garage-door-weather-seals-explained

Why? Even if they do rectify the problem I would like to be aware that they have sent out substandard products. I vote name them, at least via a PM if not publicly. I am soon to be in the market for a few pre hung door sets and would like to know so I can avoid them. @willbish I have sent you a PM.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-t12a-f-1-bsp-eu-uk-coupler-white-40mm-x-40mm/1358v This might do the trick

This info states that Concrete lintels can offer significantly superior thermal properties compared to Steel: https://www.stressline.net/steel-vs-concrete-lintels-7-reasons-to-consider-concrete/ FYI - Thermally broken cavity lintels are now available.

http://www.fix-r.co.uk/shop/tilr/dry-fix-ridge-kit/universal-dry-fix-ridge-kit/ @Onoff I used this - it was cheap and easy to do - never used one before but SWMBO and I did it no problem, we got it from the local roofing place who suggested using it saying it was as good as the more expensive ones.

We saved a big chunk of cash by fitting our own boards to the stud walls and ceilings (we left them to dot and dab)

I used this for my trays:

BT1 is New - specially for bathrooms https://www.ct1.com/our-products/bt1/ Joining glass to tray.

Looking for opinions on the best Sealant / Adhesive to fix wet room glass. I have read somewhere that CT1 Clear will go yellow over time - hence why they now sell BT1, anyone used it - I cant find any local stockists. There are a few "Crystal Clear" products out there, anyone got any real world experience with them? I have used Sikaflex EBT+ clear on other areas (fixing sole plates to the floor) and it appears to be staying clear, is it a good option? Thanks, Wozza.

Ok, so over the last few days I have been reading up on paint for our extension and had pretty much decided to try the Wickes Tough and Washable as suggested by @PeterW after considering Johnsons, ArmStead and Dulx. But then I decide to read up a bit more about Tikkurila Anti-reflex 2 - thanks to @MJNewton After reading lots of reviews and information, I found that many people suggested that this is one of the best matt white ceiling paints available. So I priced it up on the Tikkurila website at £47.40 + delivery - hmmm, I then fired up the live chat box and began a live chat with a really nice chap, I asked him if there were any suppliers local to me - he found one about 15 miles away - Bromborough Paints - so I called them up - £32.38 for a 10L tub, so I went and got one. The bare plaster has had a mist coat of Leyland Contract Matt thinned at 10% and looked good, especially where it went on a bit thicker. Last night Swmbo and I painted the ceiling in three of the rooms and I have to say that so far I am very impressed - the paint is rich and creamy, goes on well with a brush and with a shortpile Harris roller - minimal splatter. The finish this morning after one coat is very nice, super flat and uniform. We will be putting on a second coat today. Anti Reflex 2 from Tikkurila will be my go to choice of ceiling paint from now on and I shall definitely be trying their wall paints. Wozza.

Use Loctite 55 instead of PTFE - its a far better product. And as no one else has said it yet and have seen a few pics with them - Real Plumbers use end feed fittings................? - Apart from the chap who commisioned my UFH ?

The only thing about the bathroom paint that I have used before and do not like is that it tends to have a sheen to it. Just looked at the Wickes Bathroom paint and its all soft sheen - Does anyone make a bathroom paint than is truly matt and not soft sheen?