MikeSharp01

It is just detail, sizes and fixed points, if you did the planning drawings in CAD that may be all he needs but try to get everything close to perfect measurements / scale so there are no surprises. Our architect let the SE have a set of base drawings the SE did his stuff and sent his work back to the architect (and me) to be dropped back into his drawings to check everything fitted. The SE was using REVITT (3D) and the Architect used Archicad (3D). Not everything was right first time around but after a couple of iterations it looks like it will all work. If it is simple column / post stuff with roof stress / racking calcs it should be straight forward but checking is important in case the SE specifies a beam right through your favorite window because it was not on the drawing.

Yep!

ISOLATE THE POWER, then just check that you have hit a cable and that the lights are not out for some other reason, from the picture it looks like an odd place for cable to be running, is the light switch above / below it, directly to left or right of it? (In which case nuff said) IIRC you put up the eyewash station a long time ago or talked about it at least.

Yep, they dn't need to be radial unless you are thinking of installing an exchange, in which case just use IP phones cos they need their own cable back to the switch / router or can be wireless. I am just, literally, pulling through a number of CAT 6 lines and a traditional phone cable and I am asking myself why?

Our neighbours have it / something very similar for about 10 years and it still looks as good as the day it was laid, they were very pleased with - moved out 3 weeks back, not sure about its permeability though.

+1 the multitool anything more brutal is likely to damage things. Just get in behind it with the tool then lever it out. Alternatively just cut the square hole in the tile with a diamond blade on and angle grinder and lever/ break the edge out. Thus will also cut the access hole. How will you fix the leak through such a small access hole?

Yes but it is a very good cold bridge! I have the same issue and had not arrived at a final solution but I did look at the structural issues a bit. Essentially once the batten is pulled tight against the insulation the friction helps carry the load BUT you have to crush the PIR which means the grip is variable so I dismissed that one. Standing the base of the batten on something helps but moisture might be an issue. In the end my preferred solution was to going to be to make hundreds of plastic bushes, a fraction shorter than the PIR thickness, about 30mm in diameter with an 8mm hole. These would go in holes in the PIR directly onto the timber frame and the screw pass through the batten through the bush into the Timber frame and when pulled in tight would slightly crush the PIR but be held a fixed distance from the frame by the bush and supported off the frame by it. Will draw a picture when I get home.

Proper must be lead, surely or, perhaps as the Romans did it with clay pipes and lead - time, me thinks, to move with the times. +1 on Where looks matter Copper is best I guess as the plastic connectors are bulky, the pipe never looks quite straight and you cannot polish it with BRASSO to make it shine.

He is just Jealous.

Very tidy Jeremy. Another application for shrink wrap.

Scary - we are up 38% at millstone manor and 31% here in not so sunny Whitstable. Anybody point me at the smug - self satisfied emoticon? PS so that is even more we have stolen from our children's generation.

How are you going to get the camera down the pipe if it is so convoluted?

+1 on the @JSHarris offered link above its a great article and has several very good references.

Ah - that makes more sense - the thickness is now 25mm greater ad the total U value of the build up (all the bits) is worked out using the process: First find the Resistivity (R1) of the frametherm portion = material thickness (d ) / Thermal conductivity coefficient (k) [Known as Lambda] then for R2 (the 25mm of PU) = material thickness (d ) / Thermal conductivity coefficient (k) add R1 + R2 to get a total R And the U value = 1/R So plucking some values for frame therm and PU the double build up is U = 1/(.025 / .022) + (.140/.032) = 0.18 while for just PU U = 1/(.140/.22) = 0.15 Much more as quoted but they will also include the sheathing board, internal plasterboard, air gaps and everything else in the build up, all of which have Lambda values and thickness.

The manufacturers numbers Sound odd given a common thickness of insulation the two / three have very different insulating characteristics. Your numbers look more in line with what might be expected.

Yes that makes sense although I want the earth out at the bottom of the panel so I guess I will have to bite the long sleeve bullet or have an intermediate earth block at the top by the switches and that would introduce further points of failure. Decisions decisions....

Thanks Jeremy - good to see you back on line. I am thinking I will do the same but thought I might take advantage of the piranha nut not being full of the SWA gland and screw a gland down over the three tails (once sheathed) and use the gland to seal the three together although now emerging able to be separated if you get my drift.

Welcome to THE forum. Sounds like just sit tight but check there is no time limit on the CC claim.

Great fun - wonder what the lighting effect would be if you filled the jars with stewed apple, mango chutney, pickled onions and marmalade.

Yes that is the plan. Will get a load more CAT 6 by the sounds of it, its a 70mm duct so can get loads down it and there will be plenty of room for later projects. I will put 4 CAT 6 in. It was only the neutral and alarm I needed to send down to the house smoke alarms so the house alarms go off with the garden room ones and vice versa. I was using the millstone manor firex model where one common wire connects all the alarms so they go off together and there is (can be) a relay that interfaces to the house alarm wanted to KISS. Although you can double pole isolate the power to the garden room or the house which would mean that the smoke alarms in one place could be live from the other - might need rethink of that! So: (thanks all) 4 x CAT 6 1 x 6 core alarm cable. 1 x 3 core smoke alarm signal. (Assuming safe operation can be achieved) 1 x Draw rope (was going to be one anyway @Ferdinand.)

Ah ah - too many assumptions on my part sorry, will try harder to banish them from my thinking and expand my thought experiments to ensure all possibilities are covered.

Just getting ready to pull the cables through the comms duct to the garden room from the utilities center. (45m run ) Will be a model for the main house. So far I have: 2 x CAT 6. ( 1 for the home network and one for control systems network - somewhat experimental.) 1 x 6 core phone cable. Not absolutely required but will allow me to run a phone line down there separate from the house line. 1 x 3 core flexible to carry the smoke alarm signals from the garden room smoke alarms - not sure how to organise this electrically but 3 cores should be enough even if volt free contact. 1 x 6 core alarm cable for the intruder alarm. I wonder if I should also pull in a 4 core fibre? What have I forgotten?

Very smart you two - looks great.... any date for moving in pencilled in?

Are you out of the little brown bungalow... gone anywhere nice?

I guess it's one of those ask 10 economists and get 11 answers sort of a question. How is the other DHW provided?