MikeSharp01

Is that a trade name, as looking at some of these that come up they don't look like they will drill into an RSJ or similar, maybe through a sheet folded lintel.

A proper cored / bored soil survey, with lab testing and report, should cost around £1500 (Ours was £1100 in Kent with two 6m bore holes, no significant trees within 30m) and give you all the details provided you specify it correctly - I guess your Architect has done this as above. Just digging won't enable the soil samples and won't give you a report, and associated indemnities, you can rely on if something goes wrong.

It's already been a long haul but you can now see the end even if not quite the bit in between here and the end - where there will be dragons (not Welsh ones though), but you just fight each one as it comes along like you have so far with planning. It will be interesting to see how you link the house and greenhouse heating together as it feels like there should be some great synergies there. Welcome and good luck.

Back fill a 100-150mm before taping or tape twice, once directly on the duct and once 100-150mm up, so you, the next person anyway, get some prewarning of the duct below. Shows this on the stuff @Onoff has pointed you at.

Glad to hear you can have a nice night at the theatre for £80 and that you got a good win on the price match.

Don't neglect the thickness of the doors in working out the gap as on thick doors the radius from hinge centre to inner edge of door is critical to opening clearance unless the hinge centre is behind or in line with the inner edge.

If you have your ideas fixed then the AT route is probably best as they can prepare building control drawings from your design and ease any issues they find. As @Ferdinand says without an architect you won't get your mind and probably not your budget stretched.

Just let us know which HMP you are residing in and we will organise a visiting rota. Sorry maybe this Suffolk beer I am drinking is getting to me.

Who us it run by? A few weeks back I was in a centre in Southampton and you could take away stuff they had selected and put in a specific area. People dropping stuff off could drop it directly there I think if they felt it could be re purposed. It was run by a big national group.

They want north of £1k in Kent to shut a footpath for a week so I can resurface it! (Yes I said I would resurface it....)

Did some work with BT / Open reach in about 2010 and all the 3rd parties including BT use exactly the same form to request a line activation / build and open reach take it from there. There is high level connection at almost / including board level but you can only use that network if you know someone in the house of Lords! So it does not matter who your provider is the service from open reach is the same!

Yep.

Unless the room will be an artist's studio use south as you have the option to control it and to some extent the heat gains. North light is wonderful to work in but heat gain is pants.

Good to see that you have grown to appreciate the little critters given what you have alluded to in the past about them?

I can see why we did this when pulling through cables in petrochemical plants in the 80s / 90s and I guess it does have value in self building (or general building) but where do you stop? You could ring the drum through before you pull it through the building, ring it again once it is in place and before cover up. The essential difference between industrial and domestic practice is that, generally - not always, the cables are accessible on trays etc which makes doing the checks in domestic environments more important where cover up is everything. Ho Hum...

Don't tell me that it is standard practice to ring every core through and check for cross connections.

Sounds like a series connection somewhere - I guess the internal circuitry will facilitate this if its a rectifier not sure how a straight capacitive coupled LED will work if connected in series.

Looks good Dave - 3 blokes sound a lot though.

Sorry what was the case ref - I feel the need to drop by the law library and refresh my memory!

oh er!

Presumably you will be able to build quite high with this new material......

Such as are available from Screwfix among other places I guess...

There is Gold in them thar hills. - GREAT FIND?

Yes and made in UK so that's the one I will go for along with the 15L 2kw water heater. Together and alowing for infrastructure +/- (ie two electric circuits but no hit pipework, mixer / shower hose & spray head they come in at the same cost. I don't have room for a UVC sadly. In the main house HW will come via the Vaillant Combi unit we already discussed. Thanks for the guidance.

See if you can avoid making it flat front to back, better to have lower portion in the middle, tool well IIRC, to gather stuff that won't get knocked off and put tools down that are below the workpiece resting across the gap. I made my site bench with 4 x 2 and 25mm OSB for the top at the back and 25mm ply for the front - smoother, both sitting on a 12mm OSB sheet (so tool well only 25mm deep - could be deeper). Also drilled some holes to take the workmate stops to keep things in their place. Tops are sacrificial so make sure you bury any screws used to clamp it down or you will hit them when you run the skil saw set to 0.25mm deeper than the work piece.