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MikeSharp01

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Everything posted by MikeSharp01

  1. MikeSharp01
    Yep it won't work upside down as it breaks the logo use rules.
  2. MikeSharp01
    Might be able to help there as the I have been working on a plan where panels will be on a aluminium frame that tilts so I can get to 40deg from the 17deg that the roof is normally. I have 8 points on the roof suitably supported from below for this, my original plan was to make some aluminium (6mm) tile sized plates on which the brackets for the frame bolted, they would just slot in like normal tiles. The lower set of four carrying the bearing and the upper set of four carrying the linear actuators that will tilt the frame. (I think the whole thing including the frame weighs in at around 220Kg although the weight is only one problem as the lift, in a good gales, will not be insignificant in they happen to to be tilted.) Having said all that looks like tiling is the simple solution.
  3. MikeSharp01
    Is that a reg or something?
  4. MikeSharp01
    No but I have one on order just like yours.
  5. MikeSharp01
    Nope not yet, have been looking for one but I can get away without for the garden room a nothing to high and a simple batten frame will sort it.
  6. MikeSharp01
    While I have my lunch, the PB has just arrived so an afternoon for getting some of that to the garden room awaits, I am pondering on to the next step for the garden room which is the tiling of the roof. The front elevation has, will have, 16 solar panels which covers 90% of the available space and I am wondering if I should bother tiling under the panels and if not what do I put under them to catch the water that will run off as I am not sure I want to rely on the membrane long term. The tiles are Marley Thrutone in case that makes any difference.
  7. MikeSharp01
    Get the Lidl ones the only weak spot is the top button but that can be refixed with a center punch. They last and last, I have three pairs I rotate, total cost £29.97 I will buy some more of the thinsulated ones in a few weeks when they come back in - great for winter working.. I, after many years of boots, shoes and trainers, now prefer the trainers which are light, easy to slip on and off but secure in use, don't mess with my socks and look the part.
  8. MikeSharp01
    Nope not yet, next find.
  9. MikeSharp01
    Why not use OSB, pattress style, and then cover it with plasterboard to get a crisp finish best of both worlds and it won't be as susceptible to absorbing water as the MDF might if you have any leaks / incidents.
  10. MikeSharp01
    Very funny!
  11. MikeSharp01
    Yes I saw them last weekend. Might get one for the hell of it. Sorry that should be an @Onoff quote not sure what happened there.
  12. MikeSharp01
    Thanks @PeterW Ok, I have ordered the Senco on fleabay, will now get a couple of batteries and see if I can make it all fly. @jamiehamy Will get the technofast screws and Bessey knife as well. Thanks all, better get back to pulling the last of the cables through.
  13. MikeSharp01
    Sounds like a plan but we are dry lining so boxes fixed from front but at least I can choose the place - cutting out sounds like the multitool approach suggested by @Onoff. (will be supported locally above and below by horizontal battens) @PeterWIs it the Ryobi battery - they seem not have the Senco stuff
  14. MikeSharp01
    Just about to start, the boards arrive tomorrow, fitting the Plaster Board (PB) to the internal framing which I have created folowing my previous post on drylining. So I guess I need the tools and techniques. 1. What is the best way to cut plasterboard - is it just Stanley knife or should I get a saw of some sort. 2. When cutting out for sockets etc is there are a technique and again a tool. 3. There are only 40 boards in the garden room but 170 in the house. Is now the time to buy the collated screwdriver Any suggestions?
  15. MikeSharp01
    You can move a lot of juice on 4mm cable it is more than you need as 2.5mm is all you should need for a noral ring. If you have loads of 4mm why not trade it in for even more 2.5mm.
  16. MikeSharp01
    Hi @ProDave Just to clarify I have a split board with an RCD for each half I assume I don't need a separate RCD for each circuit where I don't meet the 50mm rule. The idea was to put the smoke alarms, fridge, emergency lighting and security system on one side and everything else on the other half so as to protect the sensitive side from trips on the everyday side.
  17. MikeSharp01
    Had a similar issue last week the safe zones give you plenty of room to play with along the walls. If you must protect (IE no Earth leakage trip) then run 20mm conduit in the service void.
  18. MikeSharp01
    +1 for grease and unscrew when green or alternatively use plastic studding such as THIS stuff then you can leave it in, it should be strong enough and although it may absorb water, nylon does IIRCC, only a tiny amount and then it will be stable.
  19. MikeSharp01
    If I recall my time working with the ink industry the foil you need is avaliable that wide already. The people who print the crisp packets have in up to 4m wide rolls. If you can find such a printer the end of the roll would be more tham enough for you.
  20. MikeSharp01
    +1 for sewing. I, Mrs mike sharp actually, sewe'd two lengths together for the vaulted ceiling in my study here. Not sure how good the insulation was at the join and mine is fixed in place but it held together well as I stretched it into place down the slot prepared for it.
  21. MikeSharp01
    Sounds sensible, assume the utility is extract as well so all that will happen is that the single duct is, in effect, extracting the two areas. Sphinktering the utility won't work because it is the bigger volume so requires more flow in normal mode as it will have the effect of reducing the flow rate from there in the normal conditions. Have I missed something? You will have to adjust the plenums flow from the WC and the utility in normal mode and just allow the increased flow to come through from both once it all gets going in 'boost'. Edit. There is possibly also the cross talk issue, where 'noises' from the WC will arrive in the utility!
  22. MikeSharp01
    My alarm says 3 hours and it will be lunch time, look forward to hearing all about the finished product over my coffee and sandwich! (Singular).
  23. MikeSharp01
    The bull float, long handle job, just gets it flat, after tamping / pokering before power floating. On our small garden room slab we used the bull float and then after a period of drying (2-3 hours) the power float was used. As it was a small area the power float was a single propeller & handle job rather than a ride on as you describe. It worked very well although making sure it was dry enough is clearly part of the art of power floating.
  24. MikeSharp01
    He said stick and he is down the pub already so....
  25. MikeSharp01
    We will look forward to reading all about it tomorrow afternoon then, hope all goes well.
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