MikeSharp01

In the end a sensor is just a sensor the processing that goes on with its output is what counts along with the response times of the various processes across the system. I still wonder, although do not dispute that it works, if 0.1deg is fine enough because across a 10 deg range it is a 1% change which feels large. It is the old resolution / accuracy problem along with keeping the sensor in a stable environment, or adopting other technologies, that allows it to measure tiny changes without being affected by other things, such a drafts (not in a passive house). If you were processing this directly you would take a million high resolution samples every second and process them to remove all the unwanted 'noise' you can then programme the hysteresis at whatever level you want, subject to the resolution, and even adjust it for conditions. In the end the trend has to be picked out from the noise and it maybe that the noise is 0.05 deg C so 0.1 is about as good as you might expect. It is somewhat unclear to me how knowing it is going to be a cold night is going to help other than in preparing for heat input or provisioning, in the reverse case, for heat loss. I can see that knowing that it will drop does allow heat input to be made ahead of the curve perhaps based on most effective energy source. So you might lift the slab temperature using the ASHP driven by the PV array in preparation for a cold night and let the decrement delay take the cream off. This might be the place to look at a neural network technology just taking a feed from the met office and able to sense the environmental factors with the caveat that the system itself then has some predictive capacity based on what it senses in real time and it is able to adjust the weightings across the network to improve prediction based on experience. What emissive 'surface' would you point at? One of these might be a good option if a little pricey but the image processing would be great fun. Many years back I built a sun sensor in a pingpong ball it could measure the strength of the sun and took into account the various trignometric factors associated with where it was in relation to the sun and the time of year to the minute. I guess I could dig out the code, I will have it on a 8" floppy somewhere, and use that to help work out how much heat will be acquired from the sun and hence the amount needed to get ahead of the frosty night to come with free energy from the PV array (which itself is a measure of the suns strength but is very directional).

Whatever it is it can connect to or be replaced by any of the standard push fittings HEP20 or John Guest for instance. You just need the diameter of the pipe to get the right bits. Looks like the grey stuff and the copper is 22mm while the white stuff (looks remarkably like John Guest pipe) is 15mm and the ends of the white pipe go into reducers which provide 22mm male to 15mm female connections.

For all its tattiness it is a significant milestone, you can claim the VAT back for a start also, I am sure, someone on here will be happy to design a 'buildhub' completion certificate that you can be proud of after all the adulation of your peers will be much more valuable won't it.

Get a concave mirror and reflect the focused light back into their windows they will soon get the message.

I think you have your answer but if you want my 6 pence worth - is 6 pence still a thing, then you don't need them (it) however nice she is, unless she is very nice in which case you still don't need them cos you will have to sell up when the divorce proceedings commence and so will no longer be the owner of your lovely lighting wiring although presumably, and as long as an even nicer lady (or person of another gender type depending) does not come along trying to sell you the built in hoover, you will have a hot line to some more for the next house you build.

What is the core equation that enables you to work this out, PHPP does something similar, but yours might help people here particularly if the coatings fiddle factors could also be worked up. I also wonder about the internal surfaces / materials and their ability to 'manage' the heat / radiation / convection flows driven by light in all its constituent parts. PS are you back this side of the pond or do they have better comics the other side?

I am sure the @JSHarris discusses the settings for the UFH / room stat in one of his blogs. Hot water circulation is reasonably rare I think so it will be interesting to see how you get on with it.

A bit left field - pardon the pun

Is that a trade name, as looking at some of these that come up they don't look like they will drill into an RSJ or similar, maybe through a sheet folded lintel.

A proper cored / bored soil survey, with lab testing and report, should cost around £1500 (Ours was £1100 in Kent with two 6m bore holes, no significant trees within 30m) and give you all the details provided you specify it correctly - I guess your Architect has done this as above. Just digging won't enable the soil samples and won't give you a report, and associated indemnities, you can rely on if something goes wrong.

It's already been a long haul but you can now see the end even if not quite the bit in between here and the end - where there will be dragons (not Welsh ones though), but you just fight each one as it comes along like you have so far with planning. It will be interesting to see how you link the house and greenhouse heating together as it feels like there should be some great synergies there. Welcome and good luck.

Back fill a 100-150mm before taping or tape twice, once directly on the duct and once 100-150mm up, so you, the next person anyway, get some prewarning of the duct below. Shows this on the stuff @Onoff has pointed you at.

Glad to hear you can have a nice night at the theatre for £80 and that you got a good win on the price match.

Don't neglect the thickness of the doors in working out the gap as on thick doors the radius from hinge centre to inner edge of door is critical to opening clearance unless the hinge centre is behind or in line with the inner edge.

If you have your ideas fixed then the AT route is probably best as they can prepare building control drawings from your design and ease any issues they find. As @Ferdinand says without an architect you won't get your mind and probably not your budget stretched.

Just let us know which HMP you are residing in and we will organise a visiting rota. Sorry maybe this Suffolk beer I am drinking is getting to me.

Who us it run by? A few weeks back I was in a centre in Southampton and you could take away stuff they had selected and put in a specific area. People dropping stuff off could drop it directly there I think if they felt it could be re purposed. It was run by a big national group.

They want north of £1k in Kent to shut a footpath for a week so I can resurface it! (Yes I said I would resurface it....)

Did some work with BT / Open reach in about 2010 and all the 3rd parties including BT use exactly the same form to request a line activation / build and open reach take it from there. There is high level connection at almost / including board level but you can only use that network if you know someone in the house of Lords! So it does not matter who your provider is the service from open reach is the same!

Yep.

Unless the room will be an artist's studio use south as you have the option to control it and to some extent the heat gains. North light is wonderful to work in but heat gain is pants.

Good to see that you have grown to appreciate the little critters given what you have alluded to in the past about them?

I can see why we did this when pulling through cables in petrochemical plants in the 80s / 90s and I guess it does have value in self building (or general building) but where do you stop? You could ring the drum through before you pull it through the building, ring it again once it is in place and before cover up. The essential difference between industrial and domestic practice is that, generally - not always, the cables are accessible on trays etc which makes doing the checks in domestic environments more important where cover up is everything. Ho Hum...

Don't tell me that it is standard practice to ring every core through and check for cross connections.

Sounds like a series connection somewhere - I guess the internal circuitry will facilitate this if its a rectifier not sure how a straight capacitive coupled LED will work if connected in series.