Nickfromwales

Gas burning appliances which are dependant on electricity usually have a failsafe which extinguishes the flame upon power being removed. Eg, no gas safety device would be dependant upon mains power to operate, as that would be deemed unsafe. I'd say the thermostat is dodgy so do not use this at all until rectified.

No truer words spoken. Just flashing my spicy coated minute steaks over in the skillet as I type this. Yum.

i literally just picked my iPhone up to say I haven't forgotten about this thread. Just it needs a proper looking at and this week has been hectic meeting a deadline for today. Just sitting down with a grolsch with the kids going nuts up the garden and the bbq is stuffed with the entire contents of old macdonalds farm........so as soon as they're all fed and darted I'll have a look and get some ideas for you just as I was enjoying a post-graft Coors, the phone went with 2 bathrooms and a kitchen, which i thought weren't coming off, and guess what.....they all asked me "how soon can you fit us in, we're ready to proceed"............ the joy of self employment ??

Operation 'can o worms' springs to mind. I'd walk away from that job as it's just not going to be time / cost effective. Try contacting them directly and see if there is an overhaul kit, but when I can buy a complete valve for £7-8 you can see why there may be a mixed response.

I just found out the iPhone / iPad smilies work here. Très bien. ????

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Back of the net

Are they captive olive valve bodies ( a male nut on the copper rather than a female? a couple of pics of the valve body would help, in particular where the copper pipe enters it. I take it you're going to change the whole valve rather than just the heads?

Lock her in the kitchen until she calms down

Don't use brads. They're really not suitable, particularly if you intend shelving anywhere. Of course you can fix brackets to the studs, but I've found that just solar heating and cooling is enough to flex the frame and start pulling on the brads. For such a small area I'd use 40mmxNo10 part threaded wood screws and then you'll also get away with 200mm centres. The face of osb disintegrates quite a bit when struck by a nail gun hammer so you lose a bit of purchase there too, too much imho to use brads. Ideally they would need to be a min of ring shanks as brads are bright and have very little hold force.

I'm flat out jealous and it looks the mutts nuts to me. A nice little retreat with that decked area. A good place to hide, but then again so is the whole build.

£2.5k for 2 units does make them quite attractive. That's apparently around the equivalent of a 360ltr 'wet' TS. Be interesting to find out how much, exactly. What are the possible heat inputs with a 4-cell ? Still only direct electric?

If the purpose is just to move air ( assumption ) then why not devise an alternative? i don't quite understand the criteria you're working to, sorry.

Get a fan with a shutter / iris. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bathroom-Extractor-Fan-100mm-4-with-Automatic-Shutter-Timer-A-Matic-WM100T-/321936293413?hash=item4af4e5fe25:g:gl0AAOxyB9RSzufH or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Airflow-197mm-X-Icon15-White-Recessed-Ceiling-Bathroom-Fan-With-Iris-Shutter-/300582880651?hash=item45fc22c58b:g:oMsAAOSwt7pXNQRe

The pipes will go in the eave spaces. Couldn't be easier. Can't understand why they didn't do this for the wiring tbh. If it wasn't a new build I'd say not to get too panicked about it as I've seen much worse, but as it's a new build then you have warranty and BCO issues so will need to go by the book. Have you / sister paid any money out for the electrical,work yet?

She's got a man on the inside. Welcome aboard Debbie ! I like the avatar. You and Les make a 'wonderful' couple

What sort of power does the DC motor have to turn out ? I've got some whoppers in our 1/8th scale RC rally cross / monster trucks. They do around 30-35mph with current gearing but could easily do 40-50mph if I geared them accordingly. The two monster trucks will do a wheely from a standing start, and if I turn the launch control off they'll simply flip 360+ degrees and land back on their wheels again ! Crazy power. Point being those DC motors take a beating, are brushless and have bags of poke. Can you connect one of them to a pump?

Grouting again . I'll come back to this later

That left pipe looks 1.5mm too far over to me

Telehandler? Forklifts will get stuck in the mud

CT1 for me all the way. Out of curiosity dave, as I use a lot of it, what type of failure was it with the sikaflex? Adhesion failure, breakdown / other ? Strange to hear that stuff fail tbh as it's mustard. I used to use the marine rated one ( 251iirc ) on the ships as it was salt / spray / uv resistant. Used it to bond roof panels over the lido cafe at the stern of the MV Sunbird so hopefully they're still dry under that whist having their breakfast We used a lot of that stuff, so quite shocked to hear that it let you down.

A dog is for life, not just for TF erections.

I use those when I have big steels to put in. Makes light work

W plan hydraulically separates the flow from the heating and water. Eg when dhw is required the system takes that as number 1 priority. The 3-port diverter valve can ONLY supply one application at any given time ( on purpose / by design ) so the ashp can then toggle between low and high temp modes ( eg it knows it doing heating only so adjusts for that and vice versa for DHW ). The uvc will be heated to 50-55o ( user definable on the ashp ) so you'll not need to go much higher than that tbh with 500 Ltrs. The solar Pv will roof this to over 70o when generating so the ashp will only kick back in when the cyl stat calls for heat ( eg a bath drawn late evening ). Electric immersion can be manually set to stay off until boost is required ( then fed with grid electic ). The buffer is required to stave off short cycling and iirc also helps the ashp defrost by it pulling that water back through the ashp. More to follow when I get the last couple of 600x600 kitchen tiles down edited to add : the boost immersion would be immersion #2, with immersion #1 dedicated for Pv. Most Pv diverters will also have a boost button so in very adverse situations, you'll be able to push 6kw into dhw

No, none at all. I'd say you'd actually be better off with larger flow paths ( internal water ways ) as the valve should offer less resistance and therefore when being used the noise from the water flowing through should also be quieter. Another advantage is that if you're the only person using the hot water at the time, you should have a very pleasant, more powerful shower 'experience' so best of both worlds tbh. For the money it's a no-brainer. Long live Megabad.