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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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Ooooops - Flowers Needed!
Nickfromwales replied to Barney12's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Just why is setting fire to stuff soooooo damn satisfying? "Man make fire". -
Ooooops - Flowers Needed!
Nickfromwales replied to Barney12's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
NOT setting fire to it -
I don't use strong acidic ( self cleaning ) flux, such as Laco, as I see it as the choice of the lazy man. It's only really with fluxes like that that you get the problematic residues. I use Telux ( mild ) flux as a rule, which requires you to mechanically clean the metals first ( using wire wool / abrasive pad / emery cloth etc ), and gives far better results in my experience, ( and I've soldered many thousands of joints ). For gas pipework I'd really not be worried about residual flux making it through to the hob, and with Telux, I'd certainly not ever be worried about the flux corroding the pipe. When I'm soldering with mild flux the flux almost evaporates off the fitting, with very little residue left behind, but when I have to use Laco / Powerflux I notice a lot of the flux doesn't flow away or evaporate like it does with mild. On that basis is say your mates 'burn, clean, tin and bond method would have merit, just a lot of work when it's easier to clean once, solder with mild flux and get as good, if not better, results. Purging the pipework with water at cold mains pressure may dislodge any residual residue, but as the gas will only ever be walking down the pipe, it's a pointless endeavour IMHO, plus I'd never recommend purposely introducing water to a gas line, and trying to dry out a 10 or 15m long run, in situ, would be less than easy
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Dig it out and get rid first as last
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No compression on gas. Your ok with control valves etc, and a temp cap end for testing, but soldered joints everywhere else. @TerryE , what do you mean by no flux?
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Dwangs/Noggins between rafters?
Nickfromwales replied to Crofter's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Cheers -
Yes, but the DAB radio I have now has the option of AM/FM AND DAB . I can choose whichever works best where ever I am but the new radios have dropped the DAB element which is barking mad. DAB down here is awesome, and I'd never go back. Hence, I won't be buying makitas latest shitty offering. I've a mind to fly to Japan, learn karate, and kick their arses for being so bloody stupid. Makita..........GET WITH THE PROGRAM
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Oh, fwiw, you may want to read @JSHarris blog regarding using the Ufh pipes in the slab to dump hear from areas with solar gain, and also about cooling the slab via the ASHP.
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@jack has mentioned that he had issues with unheated areas. Can't recall if it was the entire first floor or just the bathrooms. He'll see I've mentioned him and perhaps he can recall the thread
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Most of it is common sense, but I can't actually recall anyone ever measuring them ( BCO )
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Dwangs/Noggins between rafters?
Nickfromwales replied to Crofter's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
What's the full title of the vp400 dave? When the shedshop is finally built, I'll be wanting to concentrate on the interior and had planned to leave the outside just membraned, prob for one full season. If yours is holding up in the Highlands then I'm all ears. Do you know roughly how much per roll / per m2 it costs please? Edit. Does yours have nail penetrations thorough it for fixing? How have you held it down and remained watertight etc. -
When you upsize to 40mm at the tee, it in effect creates an air break as soon as the 40mm is running horizontal so prob no need for air admittance. When the two basins are running at max normal flow rate the water still won't fill either pipe, the 32 or the 40, so as water is going down, air travels up and over it if needed. The only time you'll need AAV on the basins is if there is a significant vertical drop before an air break. If your going down to floor level, then upsizing to 40, you'll have ZERO issues. It wouldn't hurt to use anti-vac basin traps, but you'll deffo not need an additional, stand alone AAV for either basins with my proposed method. If you do decide to go the longer route with the second basin, I'd still upsize to 40mm tbh as they're quite prone to gunking up over time.
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Examples of use of Mirrors
Nickfromwales replied to Ferdinand's topic in New House & Self Build Design
Make sure you buy one that you can choose when the heater comes on. Most come on with the light which is daft. Chewing electric for no reason.- 10 replies
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- mirrors
- create space
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(and 1 more)
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mains water - how to bring it in and up through slab
Nickfromwales replied to MarkH's topic in General Plumbing
+1 -
Use a 40mm tee to connect the two basin 32mm pipes together, and run a single 40mm back to the elephant foot.
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I'd be happy ( confident ) enough with these for a 'fit and forget' install, so this could go in the joist space therefore not increasing your boxing in size one jot.
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mains water - how to bring it in and up through slab
Nickfromwales replied to MarkH's topic in General Plumbing
I wouldn't go less than 70-80mm, but as you've prob got off cuts of soil, use that with a long radius bend. -
Day one - we finally get started.
Nickfromwales commented on TheMitchells's blog entry in Scooby Cottage renovation.
Boiler in bedroom is fine. They're classed as 'room sealed' . Get it up the attic out of the way, or in an utility etc. . Boiler in bedroom = a no no for me. -
mains water - how to bring it in and up through slab
Nickfromwales replied to MarkH's topic in General Plumbing
It's pretty much bombproof tbh, but it's the criteria set out by the water authority that dictates the way it's pulled in in most circumstances. 700-750mm below ground, 4" duct / sleeve of non aggressive material, then the stopcock, then a non-return ( double check ) valve and a drain off cock. Anything less and they refuse to connect you down here. Always remember that the WB will want YOU to excavate the foundation of the boundary wall, and will ONLY dig OUTSIDE the boundary. Your pipe needs to have a good bit of slack and be free to pull under the boundary wall at said depth. -
Yup, bugger all gets through once it's squashed into place.
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mains water - how to bring it in and up through slab
Nickfromwales replied to MarkH's topic in General Plumbing
He was old gold. Pissed me off tbh as he said about stuffing it full of mineral wool / rock wool etc so I had to go buy a full roll for two poxy handfuls. Live and learn. Cheers J. ( I'll quote you next time ). -
I doubt if you've got more than minutes to live................. The issue is created when the 'goop' that the tape is saturated in enters the water, thus contaminating it. Ultimately this can only really happen when the pressure around the pipe exceeds the pressure inside the pipe, or where the tape was applied to a hole and could then directly 'wash' into the water. If your confident that those couldn't occur then relax for he moment, bit can I assume that you'll be changing the entire cold mains now anyway? Fwiw, I'm a fan of denso ( just checked the spelling ) and use it to cover any copper gas runs etc where applicable. Only problem is you have to buy a chuck-away craft knife and loads of disposable gloves as it's the anti-Christ of tapes when it comes out of the wrapper.
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Afaik, denzo has been banned for use on potable water supplies. Why fit it over a pipe when you can just change the pipe
