Nickfromwales

Yes, it is still just MDF at the end of the day, but as far as the external angles etc go, they'll both damage easily, just oak would have to be colour match filled etc whereas white just wants touching up. Its a renter at the end of the day so +1 to Ed, white everything and oak / veneered doors for the look.

You don't do any filling for the spread . Leave him prep for himself as it needs doing properly ( as in no high filling / build which will cause him issues ). He won't skim over board tape, it'll be scrim tape, and only minutes to apply for a proper spread.

The real wood veneered MDF is quite good TBH. Can be finished however you like.

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@Alphonsox That's a lot of space heating from a simple 3kw immersion heater! You must have a proper smug grin with that result. . For the benefit of the thread could you elaborate on the 'slave' unit a little please ? Congrats on moving in, and one assumes things will only get better when the heat recovery ( MVHR ) fires up .

Hi and welcome. +1 to the above, and ask away .

Make me a half dozen 8x4' prototypes and I'll arrange to collect them and be your guineu pig. . The least I can do for a mate

Crikey. Great resource . Need a day off to digest that lot though. .

You've already used our 2017 quota !

Personally I'd not want such big 'grout' lines, if it were me. I have major doubts about the cut edges being comfortable under bare feet, even socks, as if their anything like the brick you'll have sharp jagged edges which often are proud of the finished main surface. . Laying should be easy, albeit time consuming as it's herringbone, but not rocket science .

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Thanks for wrapping the thread up . Not too bad an outcome, bar the 500 bucks

+ 1000. May not be as expensive as you think either. The older cables are a nightmare. If moved or struck then you'll get an even bigger bill. Remember you can do the contestable work yourself .

I'd try word of mouth first tbh as if you put a help sign up and they realise your stuck your likely to get hammered.

Yup. Ian, I don't use mine so you can keep it until your done with it if you don't want to buy one. Edit : the one peter posted may be cheap enough to get the expenses past Westminster.

Same tiler ?

They could be sealed successfully. . I'd suggest a matt finish.

Oh, also are you a million % sure your wind and vibration free at the laser, as even a guff will cause the laser dot to oscillate and be undetectable.

@recoveringacademic Ian, I've a red ( plastic ) laser finder doodaa in my Bosch kit I can post you if you want a lend?

Hi Nig I'm in Swansea too so pm me when the site kettle is hooked up . Want to save £100 a day ? I'm in the process of having a sprinkler system installed for my current client, (hydraulic calcs done and pipework 2/3 complete ), and the installer / commissioning agent has pre-advised of a very slim chance of having to have a small inline booster pump at the stopcock, but says he doubts it. Straight off the WW main on a 32mm main and 32mm stopcock. Same supply branches off inside to give me a tapping to take the domestic cold mains to the same flat. Getting a bit over 4 bar static iirc, have you checked the pressure where you are? Maybe you could have proposed a stored water system utilising accumulators which could have gone in unused eave space / garage attic space etc, charged once by a pump and then your only relying on stored energy for discharging. Also, my installed say there's been one reported case that he knows of where occupants died in a fire where a sprinkler system failed to go off, as the occupants / other had painted over the sprinkler heads so they failed to operate. Education is still needed here so that'll fall down to me I suppose to convey this important information onwards (rental property). . No reported cases from my guy re heads going off inadvertently, but only his feedback to go on so far tbh. Anyhoo, Welcome 'back' to the madhouse . Keep us updated. ?

Willis heater doing his space heating as pre-heater for the UFH manifold.

Sweet. Brazed will be a doddle.

Much easier. Have you got leaded solder?

If you like big gaps between the skirt and the plaster, then yes ✌️️ I use a far thinner product, such as Sticks Like ? which you can easily depress / displace. Pink grip and Gripfill are notoriously difficult to do either with, and they also skin over within a minute or so, so not really suitable for skirts imo.

Block built would mean you HAVE to drill and screw the skirts .