Nickfromwales

RIP. ?

Lol. I was going to link this entry bingo but you beat me to it.

Me neither. Only thing that your maybe not allowing for here, on this forum, is that most here are building airtight homes to near passive specification ( or better ) and the same logic does not apply. . Having a ventilated suspended timber floor, insulated to current BRegs ( so in a regular build ) is the devils handiwork IMO, and a suspended, ventilated B&B floor sitting at external air temp probably worse as it will keep the 'cold' for longer. . Why make a floor that is inherantly cold only to then have to over insulate it to keep it comfortable and economical to heat ? @DNA. Might I suggest you spend an hour today reading Jeremy's ( @JSHarris )'s blog . I think you'll find a lot of what has been / is being discussed here in those pages, and the actual REAL life results.

Not necessarily a red herring, as any water should, to a reasonable degree, eventually run down the deck and into the bath / drain. I do expect some water to sit there, where the tiles meet the bath, but only what the surface tension of the water will promote rather than a pool. If, and its a big if, the bath only has a 2-3mm dog ear then maybe bonding a suitably shaped plywood section up into the offending underside, jacking it up slightly with a batten wedged between it and the floor ( sitting on an off cut of 4x2 so it doesn't go south ) will get you off the hook. Don't for a second attempt to wedge anything under the actual acrylic of the bath ( eg without a bonded on plywood section ) as the batten will just punch through the bath over time. Use Sikaflex EBT ( NOT silicone ) for all the fundamental sealing work, available in clear and white, and for bonding the plywood packer to the bath underside, but use silicone as the final cosmetic / splash-proofing seal. Needless to say, the bottom course of tiles and the screen need to come off to do all of this. Its probably best if you sit down with your installer, over a cup of tea, and state that this ( you getting a resolve ) isn't going to go away, and decide how you can both work to an amicable resolve. Taking the tiles off to seal the bath to the wall should be at the fitters expense, but maybe best to offer an olive branch and pay for the tiles / adhesive / grout if they are willing to do the propping-up for the corner of the bath etc at the same time. They should have identified the bath being unfit when they installed it, as they'd have had to put a level on the end of the bath to set it into place and level it initially, so there's no excuses there just a bit of due process that's been overlooked as a minor, but is now a major. Fwiw, no acrylic baths are perfectly flat and all have slight dog ears, unless it's a Trojan cast, ( 8mm and thicker ), reinforced bath, which are nigh on perfectly flat. These can be spotted quite easily as the underside is usually green not white. Link This is the kind of bath I'd fit if having a shower over the bath Maybe time to ask about a possible returns and in-store credit at the least with VP as its not normal to have to retrospectively botch a solution to make the thing for for purpose.

Great progress. . Do you have building control involved? Have they specified timber sizes etc and how they ( the single central joist in particular ) should be supported? Regards, Nick.

Does water pool there and stay there, or pool there and run away ?

Will everything need PAT testing for a rental in Scotland? Can't recall any such requirement down here.

Better to pay once for insulation, rather than pay forever the increasing energy bills.

How much dip is there ? 2-3mm? More?

Ah sorry. . Something like this then ? Link Oh, and dont pay a penny more until bottom tiles removed and the bath is sealed to the wall.

Changing to a steel bath is pointless, and I would advise against one TBH, especially in a rental. Maybe you'd be better off with a short fixed glass panel, say 200-300mm, and a curtain. That screen will only get worse every day it's used and will need changing periodically so best to seal the bath properly, fit a fixed screen properly and compliment with a good quality rail and curtain which can be renewed for £20 every time you refresh the bathroom / change tennants.

Don't forget it'll all be subject to current BRegs so make sure FIRST that your plumber understands the requirements and maybe get them both together to discuss it before hand so you don't end up paying more at the second fix stage rectifying work from the first fix .

100% with you. I even have a shower curtain in my own house. Ref the hinged screens, fwiw I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole, but we are where we are. @Dbas, if your into removing tiles, and the bath turns out to be unfit for purpose, then I'd seriously consider a square ( D-shaped ) shower bath with a half fixed / half hinged screen. Not the best news TBH, but this problem is only being moved side to side at the moment and not fixed. Wedging the edge of the acrylic may work, but I think the bath with crack over time with use and the stress of not being able to move accordingly

@Onoff The proposal isn't to lift one of the legs, it's to wedge a batten under the actual dog ear corner of the bath. Forcing the cast acrylic where it doesn't want to go will go badly imo, but you should go back to the bath manufacturer here.......except that you can't ( as you cannot complain about a defective bath AFTER you've fitted it in error ). Lets clear up some nonsense here..... This is a shower over a bath. Question #1 is "is this a rated and fit for purpose SHOWER BATH"? You can buy a bath which is NOT for using in conjunction with standing and showering, and then you can buy one specifically for doing so, eg a 'shower bath'. NOT a P-shape or D-shape space saver etc etc just a bath that the manufacturer CLEARLY STATE IN BLACK AND WHITE that is suitable for use as so described. That type of product will go through more strenuous manufacturing tolerances, be beefed up accordingly as to where you'll be standing whilst showering etc, and typically have flatter smoother upper decks specifically tailored to accept a screen, and deflect / divert water from standing on said decks. Find out which one you have. Qurstion #2 Has everyone forgotten that this is a screen for a shower ?!? Of course it's got water standing / pooling at the bottom ITS A BLOODY SHOWER !!! The screen installation is ? REGARDLESS of what bath is there, IT STILL SHOULDN'T LEAK ! You should be able to have water INDIRECTLY spraying against that without issue, if it doesn't then it's a bad screen or it's been fitted poorly. It does seem that we've a mixture of both here......if the manufacturer hasn't allowed for anyone to actually use the shower. Some more info re the above ( #1 ) please

Be VERY particular around the joist sockets if they penetrate the cavity so you reduce draughts as much as possible. Ventilation heat loss will soon negate any benefit your 3G windows offer . I'd have a good sit down with your builder to discuss methods surrounding these and other such penetrations, such as soil and wastes etc. If you look after these things now, it'll serve you very well later down the line. Also, have you considered single room ventilation with heat recovery for the bathrooms?

I'd go with Bosch for the washing machine and dishwasher. It's VERY wise to get a dishwasher that does a half load, very few do, and tenants will thank you for not having to wait an hour and a half to wash an evenings plates for 2....machine not running late etc. Go seconds for the hob and oven, just get some oven cleaner and get them shined up. After a couple of rentals new ones would soon be looking like cleaned up seconds anyhoo. I know it's an aside, but a boiling water tap ( no kettle to clutter up valuable work space ) and also one that dispenses chilled filtered water would be a huge bonus.

Good to hear that the house isn't leaning to one side now ?

What was the transmission of vibration like from the pecker? Could you feel it in the house?

And the £24k you saved can go towards the divorce

That's nigh on what that genny locker looked like, just far less uniformity . I'm still tempted ( now it's minus it's genny ) to go nick the lining for the kids rooms

A huge generator unit I've just seen was wall / ceilings / floors covered in different sizes and angles of lightweight foam triangles. Made it near silent so the weight argument isnt necessarily correct.

Each end of the audible spectrum needs addressing separately. High end, light angular and absorbing material, and for low end it's more dense material like rubber matting ( recycled car tyres iirc ) / heavy carpet etc. Echos tend to be from upper end of the spectrum so best to decide what the offending sounds will be before selecting and integrating any purposeful solution.

It's ok. I'd miss beer too much. ??

Hi and welcome. Nice to have a 'seasoned' professional aboard

C'mon, at least it wasn't raining. .