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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    That would be best achieved with a medium sized buffer tank, but have it switch out when the Ufh is served from the ashp so you don't get the associated buffer losses all of the time . All depends if the heating load is well matched to the ashp output, eg a larger ashp would still short cycle to some extent, but with one sized appropriately that would be reduced to a point where it was not an issue / design concern. Rom what I have read here and on EB though, it seems favourable to have a bigger than necessary ashp with a buffer and labour the HP far less with few / no defrost events. Others who stayed in college longer than me may be able to offer some further clarity on that as it not my forte. ( is that how you spell forte, or is it forté? )
  2. Nickfromwales
    Ahh, gotcha . OTT then by a long way.
  3. Nickfromwales
    British Gas boast that their 30si WB is for a large flat / small house so I doubt if that's a problem tbh. I used to fit the Baxi 105e and then 105He as "hi flow" combis and they were 30kw iirc, and is not fit a thing lower than 28kw if you have a bath, even in a treehouse. . And hot water you'll get . Is that the Vaillant ?
  4. Nickfromwales
    Two boilers is a bit ridiculous TBH, unless you have a swimming pool or a 12 bedroom 6 bathroom house?
  5. Nickfromwales
    I'd favour looks over price for the sake of £10-15 more per fitting . Fabric first, but the finished look is everything.
  6. Nickfromwales
    Yes, another case of the left hand and the right being disconnected . I'm mostly retrofit ( refurbishment work ) so a pita. I'd have thought that making fire boxes out of FR plasterboard whilst at the first fix stage would suffice where space is limited, but fire hoods, as above, would be another option just annoying that these units don't appear to have been scrutinised / approved by our regulatory overlords. .
  7. Nickfromwales
    I too am a convert. Those flat panel Led's have an amazing dispersion and seem to light the room from everywhere. I put 5 of the 9w ones in the apex of my boys attic room and jeeee-sus they're like having your X-ray taken . They really do make you wonder why you'd ever fit a regular spot again, but I don't know how you go about using them below a habitable space for fire regs etc. Anyone? Jason, I'm loving the way your kitchen run is framed, I'll be showing that to my future customers, looks very neat and does away with the shitty dust magnet gap always left between the unit tops and the ceiling. Who's idea was it? And more importantly, who did the design logistics getting all that in snug and neat? ?
  8. Nickfromwales
    His mind is a complex labyrinth, and some cogs and levers. ??
  9. Nickfromwales
    Barney, you just put the 'Tool' in Toolstation.
  10. Nickfromwales
    I'd go with resin filled for anything subterranean TBH, as heavy rain could easily see these junctions inundated with rainwater. You cant bring an exposed flexible cable up the wall I'm afraid. It'll need to be in a pvc conduit at least so it has a degree of mechanical protection beyond its PVC / PVC sheathing. Do you have the lights already, and can you remove the supplied flex so you can replace it with SY Multiflex / similar armoured cable. ? Oh, and welcome to the forum. .
  11. Nickfromwales
    PMSL
  12. Nickfromwales
    A family spare room? Otherwise your in Storage Giant for a small air conditioned / ventilated unit ( so your nutsack remains attached ) .
  13. Nickfromwales
    Warm the outside of the brass with a hair drier and see if that gets it shifting.
  14. Nickfromwales
    "She had straight hair and curly teeth"
  15. Nickfromwales
    Please update accordingly .
  16. Nickfromwales
    Especially after you've barrow'd your own screed in too
  17. Nickfromwales
    It's easy to achieve, but labour intensive & 'logistically' more problematic vs liquid screed. My 'dry' screeder uses 8' and 10' straight edges to smooth the screed and I'm not exaggerating when I say you can paint it green and play snooker on it. He sets out pads of screed using a laser and then infills and smooths between them like dot to dot. He makes it look easy
  18. Nickfromwales
    The sooner you buy it and get it fitted, the sooner you'll be renting it out and generating income to repay these outgoings . If the bathroom is small, then I'd go all white as colours can look busy / overpowering in a small space making it look smaller than it actually is. .
  19. Nickfromwales
    Forgot about that bit . Yes, deffo go for what is referred to as a 'sit-on' sink, where the drips fall to the floor instead of soaking into the cabinetry, and also make sure your units are either sealed to the floor very well or ( as I went for ) have nylon 'feet' at the bottom so the wood is never sar in any water that may be on the floor. My WC unit next to the bath wouldn't have lasted a year if thet went on it. If you get one without I recommend fitting some. ?
  20. Nickfromwales
    Run a cat 6 or two for cameras and another for intercom as it's cheaper and easier than the mobile . May be a good idea to run a phone line out there to so you can pick up if anyone rings without having to take the cordless with you, and you can use 2 of the redundant cat 6 ( phone line ) cores for that as the phone only needs one pair. All depends on what you want to do in the garage of course. Edit to add : Don't forget stranded for alarm not solid core.
  21. Nickfromwales
    Vanity units / runs have been quite commonplace for at least the last 15 years here, with some REALLY not lasting the test of time. A lot is down to the change to foil wrap / continuous coatings and manufacturers now stating that it's a warranty requirement that any cut edges get sealed / painted etc to protect them from moisture. One customer I look after has a 15-16 year old house with 3 original vanity runs and they're like the day they were put in. A bit more money was spent on those ones I suspect as it was a large ( and expensive ) new build at the time. Avoid edge veneered stuff imo and you'll be fine with even the entry level stuff.
  22. Nickfromwales
    I can go to a used car dealership and buy a Ford Fiesta with service history. I can also go to the Ford dealership and buy the identical car in identical condition, just I'll end up paying a premium for the showroom, staff and lip service. Go to a showroom and see the make and 'model' you like, making sure NOT to take your cards or cash with you ( so you cannot buy one after being hypnotised by the skilful salesperson ) and jump on the Internet. Type in the one you'd like and enjoy the savings. On eBay etc just check for the description and ensure they've got soft close etc, and I went for doors not drawers for mine as i can change hinges 2 a penny but runners not so easy, plus, in a renter, there's less to go wrong with doors AND more room for DIY plumbing / trap etc .
  23. Nickfromwales
    I've bought many cheap vanity units off eBay and can't really complain tbh. My own in my house ( cloakroom ) was change of £60 and included soft close hinges. My 4 young kids have given it a soaking, a beating, slammed the doors and it's still as good now as the day i bought it. Theres only so much lipstick you can apply to chipboard or MDF so I'd not spend huge money on something you'll soon accept as peripheral. Having a complete foil wrap is a good quality, but veneered is fine if you don't plan on soaking it daily ( eg not next to the bath / kids splashing / wetroom ). My WC unit was also pennies and gets soaked by my kids as its next to the bath, and is still looking mint with no signs of swelling or degradation. Dont get caught in the showroom headlights .
  24. Nickfromwales
    To clarify, pushfit / 'plastic' pipe reduces in pressure rating as temp rises. For central heating, typically 3 bar and below, then this is not a real cause for concern, but when you have a water heater in the picture different considerations get applied. Rather than worry about the water overheating ( potentially massively reducing the pressure capability of the pipe and causing the pipe to fail ) we ( WRAS / BRegs ) introduce safety devices to mitigate this. One eg is the T&PRV ( temperature and pressure relief valve ) plus a 5-6 bar cold mains PRV which basically completely remove this consideration / risk from the pipework PoV . Plastic 'push / speed fit' pipe can be used on a hot return without issue and whoever advised someone against it is not qualified or knowledgeable enough to have done so.
  25. Nickfromwales
    I wouldn't begrudge a hot return loop in a passive performing home TBH, as with loads of additional pipe insulation, and the remaining losses usually plenty offset by pv generation, it seems a no brainer. That is typically only where you have an UVC or a TS eg some form of stored DHW ( as most instant water heaters don't provision for hot return integration ). With all the savings and efficiencies gained from having a 'cheap to run' home I would give myself a few such 'perks' if it were me.
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