Nickfromwales

I'm not supposed to be changing your mind . Why would you choose an electric shower? For an annex / other?

If it's red or brown, test it before you touch it . You going self employed?

I was thinking exactly the same last night. This is a perfect case for a SAPV.

Ok. Sorry to repeat the question, but 2 instants or 2 small UVC s? Assuming the former, then you'd need at least 20kw or so of electric to run them.

Yup. That was a ship with a single captain . Here we share the running and are therefore more robust ( so here to stay as long as folk will have us ). Glad to have you back on board ?

2 15L UVC's?

Electric shower, all day long. An unvented of 15 litres or less = no G3 When a solution gets grossly over complicated it's usually the wrong one

Hi @jntabbycat . Welcome back to the madhouse . How did you find Buildhub?

If we were meant to be vegetarians, 1) why SOOOO many tasty animals, and 2), why SOOOO many mouthwatering sauces and marinades to baste them with during cooking. Dammnit.....now I want another BBQ ? and ? + ?

I remember when I was 14 or 15, finishing Comp and going to my house which was gutted on a 100% grant ( remember those ). Cement in 50kg bags getting delivered and me, about 8 stone wet, sitting them on my knees and shuffling up the drive at 1/4 walking pace to get them into the lean-to in the dry. After about 4 bags I couldn't move any more and just dropped one and left it there. I was also boarding ceilings on my own, 8x4's 3/8" onto the ceilings with 2 deadmans for company. Oh, and no screws back then, it was nails. Lots of nails. Lots of misses. Lots of flat digits. Child labour at its best. Oh, and for H&S, I won't mention my stepdad and I on the roof joined by a piece of blue nylon rope tied around each of our waists . If he fell off I'd have been chopped in half, and if I fell off he'd have had a broken back. How we laughed ?

I'd go for a cheaper small unvented tank to serve both hot outlets and an 8.5kw electric shower. The steibel doesn't have very good flow rates for showering and the voltage drop will be evident on the lighting, it will dip up and down when the unit kicks in / out. Youll be looking at 12-15kw for the instant for one big enough to cope with all 3 outlets, but you can size smaller if you wish, ensuring that the utility sink never gets used whilst someone is showering. The steibel unit comes alive when fed with preheated water, but will struggle with a very cold incoming main.

Underground soil pipe runs, when fitted properly, are extremely reliable TBH. Gone are the issues with minor heave or settlement cracking clay pipes, and then the nightmare of roots filling the pipe at that break, so imo if there's the means to go under and you can keep to straight or relatively straight runs then I'd really not worry about it. I've seen so many adverse runs ( which have been functioning without issue for decades ) to really worry about runs ( installed according to current regs ) to be panicked by running 'under slab'. The above pic with the end of line rodding points is an excellent solution imo, and the real point to make here is about doing the job right rather than where. .

With BD, mention the forum and my username and Byron should give you my 10% discount on top. .

You'll have to observe standards regarding spacing between supports, as if it were clips on an external horizontal run, and if it were me I'd put an 18"x18" flagstone down and bed the mortar on top of that. You really need to ensure the rest bends stay put and the pipe runs cannot sag even slightly. Changes of direction / junctions should receive the same treatment. BCO should really be involved here TBH .

Their tech support should be able to garnish you with the details .

I'd wholeheartedly agree. I did a similar setup with oversized rads and roomstats per room, with regular lock-shield valves ( so nobody can turn the rad off inadvertently ) all fed off an UFH manifold from a TS. I chose this route for a couple of reasons, but most of all NOT to have the rads fed with uber hot water eg at the set temp of the TS which was in the high 70's, but also as it was a large house with 6 bedrooms which were not always in use. Those rooms were 'mothballed' at 16oC, whereas the rooms in daily use sat around 21oC with a simple rad timeclock and UFH timeclock respective to upstairs and down. Programmable room stats are the next upgrade or open source. @DamonHD has a good bit of content / knowledge regarding that as he has developed his own system accordingly, one iirc responds to occupancy too. I put the room stats next to each light switch at the same height for aesthetics and it simply leaves a little trial and error to get the temp comfortable. These are the touchscreen ones i fitted, but the relay inside is audible when switching so you may want to spend a bit more on ones which switch with solid state rather than electromechanical relays . No complaints from the customer btw, just my observation . Fyi you can get a manifold control 'wiring centre', matching manifold actuators and stats all from one supplier. Either Boulder Developments who I buy a lot from or Heatmiser do such complete setups which are plug n play.

Stratification won't be an issue, and the DHW coil won't suffer trust me. The coil, referencing the Telford setup, fills most of the inside of the cylinder ( 46kw 28mm coil vs 300-400ltr TS ) so DHW production is instant, and if served by the boiler on demand, will also be constant ( unlike an UVC ). Yes to motorised valves, to prevent convection heat loss down the connective pipework as well as control. The last TS job I did with mixed space heating had a manifold about 18m away from the TS with pipework ( 36m of it ) dropping underground through an umbilical trench, from the new plant location in the garage to the house, and then rising to first floor airing cupboard where it dropped back down to ground level to heat the new summer room. This had no additional pump, just the one at the manifold, and I was getting convection circulation within minutes. A 2-port zone valve soon sorted that, but truth be told it was such an adverse run I never though it would draw naturally, but it did, and bloody effectively too Having the rads off the boiler could reduce efficiency a little as it would be harder to ensure that the boiler stayed in optimum condensing temp range, so that's one argument for said divorce, but the flow being split between TS and rads causing problems ( i.e. reducing the flow rate through the TS thus reducing stratification ) is not going to be problematic at all. My experience is from designing AND fitting these systems in the real world, so the feedback is from these working A1 rather than hypothetical . The TS's perform far better, for DHW, than they should do ( according to statistics ) so I'm a big fan, when an UVC won't fit the bill of course. With a cold mains accumulator on each of my last two similar installs, I had 2 mixer showers and the bath filling at the same time. Not blasting out, but more than sufficient to use them. Remember that DHW is propelled by your cold mains incoming flow / pressure, so poor flow in will equal poor DHW performance, regardless of what DHW device you choose.

The run your proposing is fine. Almost any boiler manufacturer supports this type of configuration. . The 90's would be my preferred choice as its less connections for one, but also if there's a gap between the 45's then it's an extension at each point so gets expensive too. The 90's aren't perfect 90's for a reason. The condensing boilers need a continuous uphill rise, from boiler to flue terminal end, so that the condensed water runs back down the flue to the boiler and out the condensate drain. The idea is that no water pools or sits anywhere in the flue run, and also none drips out of the end of a normal horizontal flue terminal. If space is at a premium then put it in the garage, but if not keep it in the utility. ?

All depends if it's a system boiler . They have they're own pump inside already, so that would do TS & rads, and the UFH manifold would take care of the UFH circulation. I've never found it necessary to fit a pump between the TS and the pump on the UFH manifold as the manifold pump pulls through on its own. I think many installers who are doing these mixed installations fit one as a knee jerk but they're really not necessary.

I've had my one repaired 3 times under warranty, and no quibbles. I hammer my tools so really happy that I have a working tool for 3 years. Beyond that it's a bonus, after all the tool is only £100 + vat .

Hi and welcome. .

I think this may be best left as a respectful thread, rather than a place to settle opinions. This is beginning to lose its purpose chaps

Shame it's hidden down there. Beautiful timber beams . Thanks for the update

180mm / 7" outlet centre is standard Id go for the 3 socket branch TBH. Link ?

Cheap pond liner?