Nickfromwales

Steam is a luxury. My desktop runs on charcoal. ?

Welcome aboard . Always ALWAYS remember, there is someone out there having a much worse time than you . Helps a little when you view the cup as half full . Keep your chin up ?

I needed to consolidate to one vehicle so sold my van and 4x4 and bought a Mercedes Vito Dualiner ( 2 rows of 3 seats ) and as its xlwb I have enough room in the back for my tools, plus it's got a huge roof rack. One tax, one mot and one insurance. Tres bien. . Just got to find the time to rack it all out now......not tres bien. .

Hitting the next fixing loosens the last imo so 'knock-in' fixings are a no go for me. ??

I just drill excessively deep and insert regular red plugs. I then put a No.12 screw into the plug so it over expands. A bead of expanding foam ( lowxexpansion pink grip board fix ) along the full length prior to fitting works wonders. I'd never for one second use hammer fixings for this. Massively unreliable in aerated block. . And welcome to the forum .

All depends upon if it's boxed in and you can lift the waste pipes accordingly. You can't go into the end of the soil as you'd have to have the WC outlet going into a Y-branch first to direct the black water flow and only then can you fit to the end via a 110mm x 50mm reducer. You will only be able to fit a tee behind a 'flush pipe' ( high level separated cistern ) WC which are a bit old and ugly as a closed coupled WC won't have room for a tee and a pan connector behind it, so basically you'll have to boss into the top of the soil pipe and then turn 90o right to send the waste over. You'll could struggle TBH because of the height ( fall ) needed for the washing machine upstand, unless you buy a combination trap for the sink and connect the washing machine waste to that.

Hi Craig. Thanks for the introduction, and an early welcome to the 4-kid club , ( which really buggers up your choice of family car btw ). Your input could be quite helpful so hopefully you'll stick around

For the upper union don't have the waste boss opposite the soil as the first fitting under it. Drop lower and boss in further down to stop 'stuff' hitting the boss inlet and causing issues. If the vent is outside to atmosphere then you don't need to do any more than is shown .

Yup. Her and nick were at it all the time. She chose some rank wallpaper for the lobby and he took the piss. Only once he took it.....she ain't scared of him lol. Julian was getting stick for his shiny head so over lunch she lent him some

9 days for the one I participated in, and I've never seen so much work done by so many in such perfect harmony. Not one trade fell out with another, ( and it was absolutely sweltering hot ), with only the cast members being the ones to argue Billy the spark was non stop, easily the hardest working guy there. Legends. Cuddy came in first and knocked down the existing rear bit and did groundworks and drainage, and my mate and I started a day early so 10 days in all actual building. Weatheright extension, from slab to finished, in 2 days including GRP roof with automated lantern. Jeeeeee- suuus. Id do it again tomorrow.

A gas system boiler needs pressure to operate. A heat-only boiler can be either / or. Benefits are no open tanks in the attic etc, less connective pipework and associated losses, and far more flexibility for running pipework. Its not needed TBH, pressurisation that is, and I recently fitted a Vaillant 438 ( heat-only ) in a 4 storey student let. UFH on all floors plus towel rads, a 500ltr TS and a 500ltr cold water accumulator. Thinking that it would be better to have a 'self-maintaining' system ( doesn't require manual checking and 'topping up' ) as students spend most days pissed or sleeping in their own muck.

At 2.4m high I wonder if it's rated for pressurised or open pipe? Ill have a look on their website later.

Do they do stainless too?

Cracking machine .

Need to narrow this down before Telford can quote. I'll bump this later.

Let me make a call

Yup. She's a beast...even more reason to fit a chunky buffer and UVC or a TS with DHW coil . A big TS will work with a smaller boiler if it's not charged via a coil. I almost always spec the TS to be wet fed so the heated water from the boiler is circulated around the TS entering at the very top and exiting via the lowest point. That way you don't suffer the constraints of the exchange rate ( dictated by the surface area of the coil ).

With a bigger TS and a correctly sized boiler you'll be able to go for an integral instantaneous DHW coil and ditch the external PHE. I'd recommend that approach as it's far less complicated, no additional pumps / flow switches etc and way less standing losses from the aforementioned. Doubling up on PHE's will, however, give you better flow rates for DHW, but 3 showers will run off a 46kw 28mm Telford TS ( coil heat exchanger ) so think long and hard about your DHW consumption and choose wisely. .

My work here is done. ?

Whatever you do, don't put the heat loss rad in the bathroom. Anyone who's unfortunate enough to come into contact with that will need hospital treatment. Id put that in the attic and dump the unwanted excess ( from burning solid fuel ) to atmosphere.

The acc'r @ 350kg when loaded ( 50-60% water + vessel ) is a lump, agreed. Better off in the corner of the garage if there is one? Or, can you slice that corner of the study so the boiler room is bigger? Tbh, even with the 500l accumulator your borderline due to the number of hot AND cold outlets. Last job I did on this scale had a pair of 500l acc'rs ( so about 500l actual stored water combined ) which is what I'd recommend here if you wish to just use the dynamic of the cold mains, ie a passive install ( no pumps and break tanks ). To do preheated you'll need at least an additional 300l TS with 46kw coil to give any meaningful uplift, so agree with @PeterW, the boiler needs binning ( sell it off ) and upgrading, as you still couldn't match demand even with the preheat with only 28kw on tap. Upsizing considerably to say a 700 or 800l TS may 1) allow you to keep the boiler and 2) run at low enough temps to keep the boiler condensing ( very important for efficient running costs ) but you still have the issue of space heating and the property is too big to go DHW priority "w plan". For hot and cold water, this needs a whopper TBH. 3 decent simultaneous showers is a big remit, especially with white goods drawing water / toilets being flushed simultaneously too. Remember that at 2.5 bar you'll be VERY lucky to fill the acc'r half full.

? Thats what the above mentioned accumulator is for me old China mug. . @bassanclan The major ( possible ) flaw here is the plate heat exchanger. Is it 15mm in and 15mm out for DHW?

Yup. That is nuts. Not often no. Most issues are created by not flushing debris out of new pipework, mdpe burrs / flux / solder droplets etc which accumulate in the throat of the NRV and then get caught in the moving part when water passes through. That crud then holds the NRV open thus rendering it useless. Cleaning after commissioning is vital, about a month into normal use would suffice, and more so with any pressure reducing valves. With a large or complex install I would recommend a strainer but proper flushing and the one month clean out should suffice.

Hopefully the DIY attenuator will be enough then, or are you tempted to just buy the BPC / similar off the shelf one?

@Stones What level is the fan actually audible at? Are you saying dead of the night slight noise / other?