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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    Get your missus to shout at you through it and see if that takes the edge off ? Theres a 'real world' test for you
  2. Nickfromwales
    Laying in bed as I can't be arsed to move, so went through this thread again. Looking good mate, and that brickwork is nothing to sweat about, looks the mutts ? Only feels like yesterday when you were caught jemmy'ing the back door open on EB , how time flies.
  3. Nickfromwales
    It would remove your head most likely.
  4. Nickfromwales
    Enough jibber-jabber. Have the stillsons improved at all?
  5. Nickfromwales
    If you have poor pressure / flow then I'd deffo go for a 28mm stopcock and likewise with the NRV. Cost is negligible so yes to that. Why do you need / want to reverse 2&3? My gut feeling is you may get the water board moaning in case the NRV failed and you couldn't stop the water loss. After that I doubt it makes any difference TBH, just unorthodox.
  6. Nickfromwales
    @Dee As per the vid barney bumped, you don't even need a spanner or a screwdriver to change every component. The syphon comes out like changing a light bulb, and usually the rubber seal just needs cleaning and / or reversing ( or replacing if it's truly knackered ) . It's all done up hand tight. To quote Dylan Thomas......... "These are the dogs bollocks, madam" ? You can go wall mounted for contemporary, or floor mounted for a more traditional look .
  7. Nickfromwales
  8. Nickfromwales
    At least you make me look normal
  9. Nickfromwales
    ?.
  10. Nickfromwales
    Are you fully weathertight? Doors / windows etc?
  11. Nickfromwales
    If the shower is the other side then just mount the shower valve immediately above the cistern top to avoid the conflict. ? All flush / concealed and with a bar mixer its a 5 minute job to remove and replace. No need for mobile boxing in etc .
  12. Nickfromwales
    Very poor results. That's exactly what i fitted on the attic one I did and it was beyond crap. After a dozen flushes the air settles and you have to ram the button to get a slight flush. If doing that ever again I'd use 6mm copper brake line and short pieces of the silicone hose supplied as final connections bonded with CT1 / similar. Over the 1.7m the silicone hose expands slightly when under pressure ( when pressing the flush button ) absorbing the energy and thus hardly moving the flush bellows which open the flush valve. Actually, if ever doing that again I'd probably use a 12/24 volt solenoid.
  13. Nickfromwales
    Have you not considered one of these framed WC's? All fits into a standard 4" stud wall and all the components can be changed in minutes. The flush plates click on / off and all the internal parts come out through that opening . Not the cheapest of solutions, but cheaper than going round the gardens with remote mounted cisterns. Fwiw, I've done a couple of high level / remote cisterns, and one where it went in the attic, and the only issue was the flush control tbh. The velocity of the water coming down the flush pipe was excessively noisy though and when it got to the pan it was doing about a 100mph so splashed beyond the pan slightly when it got there. Go for the sealed frame arrangement and dont forget they're available for floor mounting the pan as well as wall mounting depending on how brave your feeling.
  14. Nickfromwales
    And they said it couldnt be done Ive seen "roofers" who can't turn out work of that standard, looks great ? ??
  15. Nickfromwales
    @readiescards is in a similar 'boat' to you . Im not sure how far along he is with his 'offgriddyness' but he'll see the nudge and hopefully update accordingly .
  16. Nickfromwales
    You'll be back Until then....... Dont now.....I'll cry ? All the best, and keep your spirits and your chin up ! ? Nick.
  17. Nickfromwales
    Good job your not in research and development Nick, or the SAPV would never have been invented Just finished my tea, made in record breaking time ha ha. ?
  18. Nickfromwales
    If connecting to your existing boiler, is it a fully modulating one? If not, it's likely a small buffer would be needed tbh. +1 on more insulation, but if the tiles are smack on top of these boards then the floor will get hot enough, problem is that the medium to dissipate the heat is not great. Your pipes need to get hotter than normal, say in a screeded install, and you'll only have the tiles to absorb and convey the heat so may well prove to be uncomfortable if being used to heat an air leaky / high heat loss space. Retro fitting Ufh is not the best way, so if you choose this route be aware that you'll probably never turn it off in the heating seasons, just up and down ( comfort 21oC and economy aka setback at 16-17oC ) according to occupancy. That'll allow the house to stabilise and reduce response times. You can't increase the flow temp to speed up the warming times as you'll then get the overshoot that is mentioned above. Tbh that example is most likely just a poorly commissioned setup with way too high a flow temp so best not used as a benchmark. UFH works incredibly well, when fitted accordingly and commissioned properly.
  19. Nickfromwales
    You still haven't told me why you want an electric shower ?!?
  20. Nickfromwales
    Another major factor here will be how often the room is used. Will it be occupied ? Eg oldest brat residing there etc ?
  21. Nickfromwales
    At that point I think sense ( financial ) would prevail, and you'd just fit a small UVC / gas multipoint heater or the aforementioned electric shower and electric under sink water heater. These would be quite efficient too with the shower in the high 90's and the electric water heater ( storage ) not far behind. In a property with Pv these would make better sense as any excess would already likely be getting consumed / stored in the main dwelling. Tbh, in a house with Pv, I'd run a pulsed hot return circuit from the main dwelling out to the outhouse and use what's already there. Pulsed to stave off legionella issues in the long run ( that would be considered a dead leg in a design without the hot return so no go without one ) and then a flow switch to override the pulse timer for when hot water is required. Pv would offset the losses from the hot water pipework and the pump for the hot return.
  22. Nickfromwales
    Nothing at all 9.5kw though is very cold mains thirsty, so if the outhouse is sharing the main with the dwelling you may end up running it on the lowest setting to stabilise it.
  23. Nickfromwales
    @Crofter UVC's don't come with a TMV, only TS's do . No need for one anyway as you'll ( hopefully ) fit a mixer tap on the basin and the shower will be thermostatic aka anti-scald by default.
  24. Nickfromwales
    ?
  25. Nickfromwales
    They're a good choice as you can fit them in a kitchen cupboard ( supported sufficiently of course ) and if charged by pv will be a near zero loss solution with combi performance showering. 3kw grid boost so after en evening shower you could have a short E7 top up to ensure a morning shower / wash up was guaranteed. These are change of £2k though, are they not?
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